DTA (UK)

No worries mate! ;)

Ok - I stand corrected ... Thanks Stuart. Regards,

Quick question: The reason for purchasing an aftermarket temp guage is to get a more accurate reading than the crappy stock one. Why would you then want to take a feed from the crappy stock sender unit? Surely this nullifies any benefit ... The black sensor (which feeds the dash dial) is known to be in accurate due to corrosion, ill fitment, etc. On my car I need to tighten it up every other week or so to stop it making the dash needle fluctuate as I'm accellerating. Geoff, best to plumb it in at a different location using the correct fittings, etc. Smithy's solution is a very nice and clean one which doesn't cost an arm and a leg. Regards,

HICAS only works when the car is in motion. Between 5 and 30mph it turns the rear wheels in the opposite direction to the front wheels (ie, tighter turning circle ;) ; Above 30mph it initially steers in the opposite direction to the front and then in the same direction. This is supposedly to aid stability when changing lane, etc. Now, don't quote me on the actual mph figures as this is off the top of my head and may be incorrect. HTH. Regards,

Steve, This is a very common problem. The source of it all is the way the oil pressure sender unit is built. I'm not sure how you call this but it is basically a tiny strip of metal that bends over a coil, thereby changing resistance and causing the needle in the guage to move ... (a very technical description - I know :)) As you can well imagine, these parts do not get changed frequently and as our cars are now 10+ years old the metal does not bend as well or as far as it used to. If you are really worried then you can buy a new oil pressure sender unit from Nissan (think it is about £90 incl. VAT) and replace the old one. This is a very easy and quick job to do as the unit sits right next to the oil filter (although on the later models this may have moved to another location - not sure on this though). HTH Regards,

I recently drove Nissan Polesworth's demo 350Z GT ... nice car, handles well around corners but my 'stock-ish' '90 300 beats it by a mile in just about every other department! In my opinion, if you have a well sorted, well looked after 300ZX then there is no reason at all to sell up and buy a 350Z. And what is up with it not having SatNav as standard? There was a great big gaping hole in the dash where it should be and was told by the dealer that it is a £1,5k upgrade?! A friend's Renault Clio came with it fitted as standard!!! Just my opinion though. Regards,

Hi Glynn, Mines doing the same ... absolutely mad off the line, violent change up from 2nd to 3rd (with significant delay) and then slow to accellerate in top gears. Have been informed that it could be (a) problem with the torque converter, or (b) slipping clutch. Either way it's not good. Let me know what you find out from the diag. I've done a ConZult diag but nothing significant shows up. Cheers! Danny

Round terminals and make sure the +ive terminal is at the left rear side of the battery (when looking at the engine from in front of the car). If it is on the other side then the existing battery wire will not reach the terminal. HTH

For ConZult sales e-mail me as I'm the official UK distributor. Or visit my section in the Trader's Forum: DTA-Motorsport.co.uk FYI: Parts of the ConZult software can now be ported to PDA but currently only for one specific O/S. For more info check out Gio's post in the DTA Trader's section. ConZult: £265 (incl. VAT & p+p) Group Buy to be organised in the next couple of weeks so stay tuned! Cheers!

Malibu, P/S top-up: take the P/S cap off and have a look at the little black stalk with the white "floating bung" on it - the stalk has the min/max markings on it. HTH Regards,

Thanks guys! I've now had about 24 hours to contemplate about it all and calm down (NOT!) Spoken to the police again to see what their oppinion is about the scum returning for a second try and they seem the think here is a high likelyhood of that happening! :( They also told me that they are trying to break up an organised car thief ring operating in different areas of Birmingham who are targetting high end sports cars. Aparently two Mercs (SL 55 and a C36) have been nicked from their garages over the past week. Anyway, I haven't phoned my insurance company yet and will hopefully get some time tomorrow to phone around to get some quotes for the repairs. Then I'm going to equip the car with a live wire to the door handles! (Only kidding ;) ) Cheers all!

Please excuse this post but i need to vent my anger ... Some scrote(s) tried to break into my car over night. They didn't get very far because the alarm must have scared them off (I didn't hear anything) but left the usual trail of destruction ... :( They tried to pry the lock with a screw driver - didn't work but ruined the lock. Then they tried to take the door handle off completely - didn't work either but ruined the rubber seal and left a lot of scratches/nicks in the paintwork. Then they tried to open the window by sticking their screwdriver between the targa top and the window. Didn't accomplish much there either except for paint damage to the targa top and the little metal guide that stick out has been damaged. I reckon this is what set the alarm off. Why can't the scum of the earth leave other people's property alone?! Now I've got this damage and the previous vandalism damage to worry about ... When I found out this morning I tried calling the police but they put me on "hold" three times, each time dropping the call after a few minutes. Then I walked down to my local police station (only up the road) to find that it doesn't open until 10am! :confused: Not sure whether I'll claim this on the insurance as putting the damage right might be less expensive than having my premium hiked up! What do you guys think? Also, can I get a replacement lock to fit my key? I don't fancy changing all the locks and ignition just for the one lock that was screwed up. I got up this morning with a massive headache and my day is not getting any better ... Sorry for the ranting but am thoroughly p*ssed off.

Don't muck about Clarkey! Take it to a specialist who's in your area, like Jeff TT (and no I don't want to open a can of worms here so everyone behave ... ;) ) If you get anything wrong with placing the belt back on (assuming you manage to get all the bits off in the first place) then the results could be disasterous. Which means a lot more money to be spent setting things right. Better to leave things like this to those who've done it dozens of times. Just my 2p worth ... Regards,

Hi John, This may be a bit off the mark (can't remember where i heard/read this) ... The HICAS system input comes from several places such as the speed sensor but also the steeringwheel. When you remove the steering wheel you'll find a special boss which, if not fitted i.e. when fitting an aftermarket steering wheel, confuses the HICAS. If the system detects something strange happening (input wise that is) it shuts the HICAS down and it becomes inoperative. I've also heard that if the steering wheel is not on properly centred it also confuses the HICAS system and eventually shuts it down. Again, can't remember where I heard or read the above or whether it is reliable info. It sounds plausible which means removing the HICAS boss should do the trick as it eliminates one input source and therefore disables the system. I think Eric/Lymon may know a fair bit more about this so I hope he'll read this and responds. Please don't take the above as fact until proven so by other members/experts. Just thought I'd share this bit of info. Regards,

Only an option? :confused: Don't thinks so mate ... check under the bonnet for 4 big pipes (2 of which go to the TB's). If you've only got two then it's a N/A, if you have four then you have a TT but most likely some numptie switched the speedometer cluster for a N/A one ... seen that done before :rolleyes: Regards,

Nick, If it is a Jap-spec Z then you'll need to get it properly derestricted (i.e. remove the 112mph speed limiter). This will also remove the cruise control limiter and you'll be able to set it upto 112mph (I think ... but could be wrong on this). If it is a UK-spec Z then the cruise control should be operational up to about 100mph (if memory serves me). HTH Regards,

£7 from Nelson direct (for both) and 5 minutes to fit. Mine were corroded on the inside ... HTH

There is also a difference in the paint type used to paint the steel body work and the polyurethane bumpers - or at least if done properly there should be a difference ... Clarkey - guess your car's bumper bent back too far and probably stretched the bumper too far or even "folded". Both of which will prevent it from returning to the original shape. Here's a thought:- what ever happened to developments of so called "memory metal"? You could bend it completely out of shape, apply a little heat or electrical current and the thing pops back to it's original shape. That would be the solution to all our bumper woes! Regards,

Hi Mike, Yes, "total closure" means exactly what it says on the tin ... it will close any open window/sunroof/doorlocks that may be open when the alarm is activated. Obviously in our Zeds it will only do the doors and windows PROVIDED that the system has been installed to do so. As far as I'm aware you need to install special actuators to activate the window closure system. As for the pager system, it is what Stuart said. Not very usefull as you need to stick an unsightly antenna (of the self-adhesive variety) onto the front windscreen and if the car is parked underground or you are way up high in a towerblock then it won't work because of all the concrete and metal, etc. Not worth the money in my opinion. HTH Danny

And have a look at our A'PEXi PowerFlow kits - £120 incl. VAT & delivery. Currently on backorder. Read about them on http://www.dta-motorsport.co.uk in the A'PEXi section. Regards,

Yes, your car is experiencing speed sensor failure. Not sure how much £ (thought it was in the region of £90) but get a new one from Nissan or MJP. No point in getting a second hand one as you don't know what condition it is in. HTH Regards,

No worries - problem resolved :) Regards,

Hi guys! Is there anybody in the vicinity of Wakefield (West Yorkshire) with a ConZult who could possibly help look over a car that somebody is considering to buy? I've been asked to go over but it is quite a trek from Birmingham and I have full schedules for the coming days. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

PS - Try doing a search on AVO's and Lack300: Tony (Lack300) can do you a good deal on AVO progressive springs and shocks - lowers the car upto a max of 30mm I think ...

Hi ya! Tuning an NA to TT performance levels is difficult and expensive to say the least. You can start by installing a cone filter type induction kit (i.e. A'PEXi PowerFlow), fit a full stainless steel exhaust and possibly a chip to optimise fueling. You'll find that there are only one or two companies who will provide a chip upgrade for an NA because, quite frankly, there is not a lot of performance to be squeezed from the engine without going into the astronomical expense of changing the engine's internals and lightened pulleys, etc. If I were you I would upgrade the induction and exhaust and leave the rest for what it is. You've got a gorgeous car, visably difficult to differentiate from a TT, and they all drive like a dream! Regards,