Rev1Richie

From what I can make out its just a recessed panel a few cm's in, is this metal panel available as a spare? Rich

Gary, thanks for that, if any one has some close ups of the rear qtr area that would be better, out of interest, how difficult is it to remove the rear bumper. Thanks

Pics of the car with the bumper removed please. thanks Rich

Dos anyone have any pictures of what is under the rear bumper when removed. I'm trying to figure out what metalwork is or should be there on mine without removing it. Cheers Rich

Cheers, I was going to some gasket gum anyway. Rich

Hi,going about fitting some decat downpipes and the existing pipes with decats have a inner locating ring where it is attached to the manifold downpipes, pretty sensible if you ask me. However the ones im fitting only have a flush face so will rely on the pressure exerted by the 3 bolts to make a seal, will this be sufficient? Rich

sorted

Found this answer on a site (aus300zx) which I will be looking at ... well impressed Sorry, I may have got the description of which light lights up in the wrong order. The circuit diagram says teh "Crusie Cont" light comes on when teh crusie control is turned on, and the "Crusie" light comes on when the crusie speed is set. In any case, if you're at all handy with a multimeter, get to the ASCD control unit next to the ECU, and with the ignition on and the cruise control turned on, and the auto in drive if an auto, check the voltages on pins 5 and 11. Pin 11 should have zero volts on it, and when you press the brake pedal, you should see 12 volts. Pin 5 should have 12 volts on it, which should drop to zero volts when the clutch pedal is pressed in, or the auto selector is moved to neutral, or the cancel switch is pressed. The ASCD computer will not allow a speed to be set unless there is 12 volts on pin 5. If you don't have 12 volts on pin 5 with ign and ASCD on, but your cruise control light still comes on, then the fault will be an ASCD hold relay (the brown one in the passenger side footwell, from memory), or the neutral and parking position relay (auto shifter), brake or clutch switches. Sometimes the pedal switches move out of alignment and don't close properly, and sometimes if the brake pedal is slightly loose at the top of its travel, it can bounce around while driving, and cancel the cruise as well. It's also possible that your steering wheel is at fault. There are three slip ring connectors on the back of the wheel. If any aren't making contact, then your ASCD and/or horn won't work. Oh, and you can't set it below 48 KPH or thereabouts in any case.

Graham, all speeds mate, I know that CC don't work up to certain speeds, which makes me think, what trips this speed to allow the cc to work, maybe that's broke? rich

Don't worry about it, got the gist of it. Thanks for replying, not often I hear from our antipodean cousins Rich

Simon, I think you have that spot on, Rich

More info, Right, with my CC not working, I have checked the micro switch on the brake/acc (auto) , checked fuse, and have now replaced the unit from the cable end to the oval switch. it still doesn't work, so is there Anything else I haven't looked at/swapped out to make it work? Cheers Rich

SD hi, sorry for the gap, if you haven't found out, Japanese for (air con) - I mean CC is I think ASCD, im not sure about a relay but the fuse is in the kick panel in the drivers footwell, 3 Down 5 Across. see picture Regards rich

is this method primarily the same as groovers? but without the plug removal. on the tps adjustment, which oval connector are you referring to, is it the one on the valve at the back with the yellow connector? Where are the o2 sensors? Rich

Yep, all them were okay and adjusted through Scantech/Conzult on my laptop, it all started because I just wanted to adjust the idle, on my old Mk 2 escort you just twiddled a screw... Now I'm not actually sure which bit adjusts the idle.. Cheers Rich

Hi Guys, I've been having little niggly problems with idle/stalling/hesitation.... I've seen the threads about a whole load of problems regarding this. Now, as I can make out there are quite a few adjustments that can be made which will effect the idle rpm, for instance, tps, throttle body balance even the cable adjuster, but what I would like to know is this, in what order do you make all these pertinent adjustment to set the idle, I have been going round in circles adjusting, re-adjusting, I cant seem to nail it down. So can someone tell me in what order I make them and how to zero everything at the start. Rich ps just as I thought I knew all the ways to adjust things I read a post by groover giving me another one (Take off the yellow plug of the IACV with engine running and with a flat blade longish driver, turn the idle screw, once the revs are down to about 650 or nearly dying, plug the iacv plug back in and the ecu will take over the idle. )

Oh yeah , forgot to tell you the badge on the boot said brabus

Followed this car today, any ideas what it is?

Many Happy Returns I hope you got what you wanted.. Rich

it'll never happen...'cos Robben wants to score it. He reminds me of when we played football at school,

Is it me, or do the players NOT know how to cross a ball, or have been trained to kick it to hard. I am feed up of seeing cross, free kick, dead ball after cross, free kick, dead ball soaring over the players and out of play behind the goal. Also everyone's ability or inability to control a ball that's been passed to them is beyond me. Rant over Oh when is the Dutch manager going to realise that Robben is just a selfish bas***d and will never pass Rich

hi guys, well this thread would appear to over and finished, and to be honest, it is. all things have been sorted, all codes cleared and car running sweetly. That was right after I had sorted everything, how ever a couple of weeks later I'm finding I'm getting some hesitation when I initially put it in first and depress the pedal, it hesitates and then picks up and goes on. it never stalls, and has baffled me. I have put the diag tool on it and all figures are as they should. Considering what I have done previously, is there something I may have missed that is causing this? More regards Rich

Its not often a day comes together when the sun is shining, T-Bars are off, the roads are clear, the Zed is running so sweet thanks to a lot of guys here (thanks) and the route takes into account some sweeping, bendy roads and lanes...What a morning i had, You can keep my old 4.4 V8 BMW X5, the 320 CLK Merc and the BMW 330 ci M sport Convertible, Driving my Zed was just the perfect car to be in. It was better than ...er...Chocolate!!! What a Day....

The best place on the Dash?? Where ever you feel most comfortable. Mines next to the Clock (not my choice) If you use the solution that Jeff suggests, the lights are operated by the existing switch on the right dash pod Rich

I've only got the freebie version of Conzult, which is okay for looking, i think the full version allows you to write to the ECU (im sure someone will either confirm this or shoot me down in flames :2guns:) The best one is Scantech (free), it gives the best overall picture of whats going on. Rich