Rev1Richie

i've just managed to get my spare laptop up and running with Scantech, Datascan and the freebie Conzult. and a thought struck me. Have we got a list of members who have this facility who are willing to hook it up to Zed's who can get there or would take it to imobile Zeds within reason.. If it does not exist put me down for it, I live in Meldreth, Between Royston and Cambridge. Rich

Redwine, Sure. come on down and i'll hook you up. In fact that makes me think of another thread. Rich

Yeah!! got it working, think the key is making sure everyone is reading off the same page, ie using the same com port. Read somewhere that the programs dont like above 9 ports, so used 3 (old modem) It was probably a combination off all tweaks. Big thanks to all, Sometimes raising a thread is a good sounding board, Rich

Thereby lies the problem. the connect button is greyed out at all times. Rich

Graham, thanks, that worked, once it was sorted i took it out to the car and plugged it in, com 3 seemed to be the best, but i just couldn't get it to work as i thought it would, picture shows the screen . am i right in thinking that the "Disconnected" should read "connected" the black dot should be green and the comm port should be shown. Any ideas on how to give it a kick start? Rich

Hi, i've just managed to get my laptop working and the "Consult Diagnostic OBD USB Interface 14 Pins Scanner Tool For Nissan" arrived today, Took a while but got there in the end, however the tool in the device manager has no drivers installed, has anyone got any idea where i can download them, the cd that came with it just had the free version of conzult on it.. Do i need the drivers for the tool to work, any help would be gratefully received. Thanks rich

Jeff, back to this issue, as th esolution requires some elrctonics, would this be taped up near the bulbs or at the fog light switch, and does transplant mean cut and splice where the cables are clean. Rich

Going back to my cruise control problem again... Guy, if it is NOT the button on the brake pedal, and NOT the relay, is there any other culprit you can think of? Rich

Thanks Guys. Rich

Hi, has the method of adding a item for sale/ wanted changed recently, about 6 weeks ago i was using some difficult system which quite frankly put me off from adding any more posts, however when i went to add one today, it seemed its changed to a really easy to use, well thought out post page. Has it changed or have i posted it in the wrong place Rich

Hi, Selling a Custom Made Cat Back Exhaust system, Full Stainless Steel construction with distinctive 2 tone note. going on Ebay soon for £150, but members only price on here for 4-5 days £125 no offers, collection only. Rich

Hi steve, Thought i'd attack the temp sensor while it was cold this morning, First thing was to check the connector. as usual GREEN everywhere, usual procedure, good clean and vaseline. Result = starts first time, back to normal, even lower rpm with warmer engine. I'd like to say the problem is fixed, but we all know different, they just fade away for a while. So at the moment im happy where it is and i'm not touching it. So this should be the last of my "hes and stall" posts, justs cant understand how changing the tps caused it to revert back to bad running. One question for anyone, once i put a 1 mega ohm res in the connector for the knock sensor, will the codes disappear naturally or not, also would these codes have put the car into reduced performance mode at all, like a TT (i think) Rich

If i can find the voltmeter way of doing the tps, i'll change that, i'll look at the temp sensor today, base idle was okay, watch this space

Whatever next!!! Okay, so everything was okay, on cold, starts first turn, revs high, engages gear, no hesitation or stalling... so base idle, tps and other stuff need checking, attach some software and base idle fine, timing okay, tps .52, adjusted to .42, Great!. notice it has 2 codes, 34 and 13, knock sensor and temp sensor. Told about the 1M ohm resistor, and will change sensor/connector tomorrow. Now for the GOTCHA! Starts. ..Stalls, starts up..Stalls, starts up..Stalls you get the picture, needs my right boot till its warm. Then runs at 1100 revs, pulls down to 500-600 upon gear engage, and nearly stalls. Back to fecking square one!! Is this sounding like a tps problem, 'cos thats all we adjusted! Can the 2 error codes cause it? can someone lend me a box to put my hair in, because i've pulled it all out.. Help in the usual way rich

Ok Cool, graham you've been a great help all round. Thanks Rich

Thats the thing i was thinking i needed to sort out... thank god Steve's coming down tonight, dont think i could handle taking that connector off again. Am i ok driving it around until i get it fixed Rich

Okay Then, Time for an update. Good news is the car is starting sweetly and behaving a lot better, there is however one last function i may need help with. Right plan was to swap out the AAC valve situated just right of the battery (sitting in car as always) cant really miss it, it has a yellow connector on it, so firstly i had to remove the one from my "spare" car, i cant impress upon everyone to get one, its a lifesaver. Anyway. started to remove the AAC, one thing having a spare car does is that apart from give you the part, it allows you a "dry run" on the procedure, what to clear away, what not to break!!. After a little while i had the AAC valve in hand. so off to the proper car... Everything went well, but i was hesitant about moving the wiring loom up/down left/right as the keen eyed amongst you will remember my issues with moving the loom caused misfires. However i proceeded with this action as you have to move the main loom around to gain access/visibility. i got to the point of just about to remove the last of the 4 bolts holding it down when something caught my eye and i saw this Well thats not right i thought, and through my many post i have read recently on hesitation etc, this yellow connector came in for a lot of discussion. so before i remove the AAC valve, i thought id take a closer look. so i quickly popped the bolts back in and pinched them up. I will say here that getting access to this connector was bleeding difficult and did consider kidnapping a small child with small hands to work on it. I eventually removed the connector only to be confronted with our worst enemy (drum roll) yep you guessed it ..GREEN CORROSION!!! Both in the connector and the socket. So i decided to fix the connector first and order up a gasket (which had disintegrated from my spare car) and swap the valve if the conn fix didn't work. The yellow conn was fubar, so i cut off the end and soldered the spare one on which was unusually pristine, with the socket i very carefully attached some glasspaper to a fine long screwdriver and slowly cleaned it up. Then filled with vaseline and attached it to the valve. Now came the hardest bit of the job, there's always one in every job. Fitting that u clip, wouldn't have been so bad if it came from the batt side but it was from the other side where finger access was tight, now what did i do with that child... Easiest way was to pop it just on the connector, carefully place it down on the socket and then push it on. So all done, everything back together and then time to start it up. Before when i started, it would rev up as normal then die. This time it fired up (instantly) and held revs at 1400, great! While i tidied up i left it running, as it warmed up it gradually reduced the revs, however when it was at operating temp the revs were a bit high. Maybe something for another post. Took it for a drive and when selecting gear it didn't die either. Thinking back, my misfiring which i thought was caused by moving the loom wasn't caused by some iffy connections in the loom but obviously by moving the yellow connector which with the corrosion was sparking out. I would like to thank all of you who have made suggestions, given advice and helped in anyway or just given support. Also the following webpages were very useful http://www.twinturbo.net/ttnettech/iaa/iaa.html http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-cleaning-electrical-connections-t473356.html So thanks to all Rich

Nice one!!

Cheers, any suggestions how best to remove the electrical connectors, without busting them that is.... Rich

As part of passing the MOT i had to weld up the exhaust, couldn't do this in situ, so removed the whole exhaust. this resulted in cutting the leads from the cats into the floorpan. I was told this is not a problem, but could this be a cause of all my problems? if not the cutting maybe some wires shorting, what was this lead for? rich

Cheers Graham, i'll look tomorrow Rich Lucky i have a spare

From cold, i start it, it fires up to 1500/2000 then dies. to get it to stay alive, i apply revs start and hold at approx 1500, after 20-30 secs it will hold but if i select D/R straight away, it dies. Once i let it get a bit warmer (at the moment it doesn't take long) its okay, when i make the initial rev to go it sucks down before going up, if i use the AC trick it seems to help. Rich

Got an update, putting into D or R is getting increasingly difficult without it stalling, impossible to keep revs up without lurching everywhere. Best resolution seems to be the AAC valve, Anybody else got any just as plausible solutions? Any suggestions why the revs suck down so much when the D/R is selected? maybe that might point to a possible fix? Help needed Rich

Cyberbean, pop over , yeah. is your conzult working, if so can you bring that to. i'll check your facebook acct see if i can find you. Rich

You're a star Cheers, it works to!!