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CyrusJH

Dormant Member
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by CyrusJH

  1. Well that won't get him teased at school !!!!! Good luck with everything mate - looking forward to seeing the newest memebr of the club!!! "Children are a Joy!....... It's the cost that's a pain in the arse!!!" :dance::dance::dance:
  2. Hello... good evening... and welcome laugh
  3. Have you got room for a small one? July would probably work for me but would really depend on the date (middle of my busiest season!!)
  4. FunkySi.... Is it the wiper arms or the blades that you have replaced - or both??? Looks like just the blades - is that right? Who makes the IS250 blades - did you get them direct from Lexus?
  5. Sorry mate - I'm in with everyone else here - I have not found a rear facing seat that will fit in the back. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE - DON'T TRY A FRONT FACING SEAT WITH A NEWBORN. If you break hard the force is hard enough to snap a new borns neck in a front facing seat - they simply don't have the neck strength to stop their head. Only way is rear facing seat in the front seat and wife in the back (or the boot - laugh!) Any problems call Britax customer services or go to a Halfords fitting centre - they will both help.
  6. :confused:Really Sorry to hear this mate, I was with my Ex-wife for 14 years - 2 houses and a kid so I know it's difficult. I know you probably don't want to hear it right now but it will get better in time. If I had not split up with my ex then I would never have found the love of my life and get remarried. I thought I was going to be alone forever - you just have to have the strength to get through right now - and the next day - and the next month - take it a bit at a time. Try not to fall apart - I know it sounds cheesey but its the whole "one door closes and another opens" thing. I have PM'd you my number - if you just want to chat - give me a call. Good luck with it all fella - Cyrus
  7. sorry to hear that mate - never good to have to do that
  8. mococx... is your box changing gear at all? I would be interested to know if it has the same problem as mine and if your replacement sensor sorts it out - I could really use it not being a replacement gearbox job.... not this close to Xmas!!! :(:headvswal:confused:
  9. Hi mate, Seems like it must be in the air with Autoboxes - Mine did exactly the same thing yesterday. I can get 1st and 2nd no problem but then just revs and revs and won't change up - having to drive everywhere slowly in second at the moment. I have tried flicking the O/D button on and off and over revving a bit to try and encourage it to shift - even tried manually shifting up through 1 and 2 but as soon as I got to D....nothing changed!! I am hoping it is the speed gearbox sensor too otherwise it is manual conversion here I come!!! Good luck sorting it out and i will be really interested if you get to the bottom of it. If I sort mine out I will let you know the result.
  10. Guys - this is a far better way of beating Mr Gatso!!! http://www.trickplate.com/how_works.html Fits really well on Jap Cars because of the width of the rear plate
  11. Can I make a really important point about all of this - the screen will only be as good as the source signal you are putting into it. Sky HD is only a 720p signal. Even then you need to use a decent quality HDMI lead and a majority of the content on SKY HD are upscaled programs from standard UK or USA sources. Only programs that have an HD icon in the program info were originally recorded in HD. You either need a 1080p BluRay source or a true 1080p upscaling AV amp in order to best utilize a good screen otherwise you are completely wasting your time. Don't even bother watching a standard terrestrial signal on that size screen and expect it to look better - it won't - it will just amplify all the defects in the signal. It is like a stereo - you can have the best speakers in the world but if you are running them of a crappy cassette player then it will still sound crap. Spend the money improving your source signal.
  12. Thanks for the help on the Phone today done - very "illuminating" !!! ........ laugh
  13. Cheers Mike - Let me know - what does the H3 mean!!????????
  14. Might have been when they changed from Black Stig to White Stig
  15. It's just the choice - I don't fully understand what all the different kits do?!!!!!
  16. Sorry Craig - I know Tiff (brother in law of one of my clients) and it's definitely not him - so that'll be a big lump of money to me then!!!! I had been told (by people in the know) that it was an ex formula 3 and NASCAR driver called Ben Collins Sorry Vinz - another retard here!! (Laugh) if you just take it as light entertainment rather than a car program then it's jut that... light entertainment!!
  17. :rofl:That is the funniest thing I have ever read!!!! You should take some time to read the questions at the bottom too!!!!
  18. Terrible shutter lag and a really crap lens!!!!!
  19. I am a professional photographer by trade so please pay absolutely no attention to what i say!!! :rofl: Whilst I agree that in this sector Panasonic Lumix and Canon make very good cameras I think the really good ones will all fall outside your intended price range - (anything worth having would be £250 +) I have always shot Nikon and their new compacts range are all really good though still may be above what you were willing/needing to pay. If you really do just want it for snapshots then there are some great deals out there on Samsung at the moment. Their NV range is coming to the end of it's life so you can get some craking deals on the NV 9 - http://www.whatdigitalcamera.com/equipment/compactcameras/27129/1/samsung-nv9-review.html I think the half price deal was with Argos but I could be wrong. The delay you are talking about between pressing the button and taking the picture is called shutter lag and is a by-product of a small camera trying o do too much with a small processor. Bigger the processor - better the lens - better the sensor - the less shutter lag you get. If you need any more help feel free to drop me a line with a link to what you are looking at.
  20. Hi Guys, I desperately need a good quality HID conversion for my dipped beams. I do a lot of night driving and right now I may as well have some guy sat on my bonnet holding a candle - my stock lights are CRAP!!! I have a '92 TT JDM LWB so which lights would you recommend? What is the difference between the standard and the Bi-Xenon models (two bulbs at a guess?). I don't want a fancy tint so was going to go for a 6000k kit (would that be right?) What does the H3, H7 etc signify? I also want quick start up and reasonably low power consumption - but it is the light quality and beam depth that is the most important to me. I was thinking a 55W Premium Bi-Xenon or Ultimate Bi-Xenon kit (DTA kits). Which would best suit my age of car? Sorry to be such a numpty but night driving is really getting me down at the moment (I keep driving with full beams on just to get some light!!!) Btw Jeff... If your reading this - your going to be fitting this mate so you may as well put your two-penneth in!!! All help very much appreciated!!! Regards - Cyrus :confused:
  21. I agree with Hairdo. LCD's - especially the cheaper or larger ones - can suffer tremendously from motion blur depending on what the refresh rate of the screen is. Whilst larger plasmas are heavy, a good quality 1080p Plasma will give you excellent contrast ratio with little or no motion blur. The reason they are still cheaper than the equivalent LCD's is that they have a 10 year head start in manufacturing time hence a lot of their tooling and factory costs have been recouped already. I have 3 large screens including a rear projection (56" Sagem HD), LCD (50" Samsung HD) and a 12 YEAR OLD 46" PANASONIC PLASMA!!! The plasma still has the darkest blacks and ZERO ghosting (Though they did not make HD 12 years ago). The rear projection is great for watching movies on and is far less susceptable to ambient light than you would think. The LCD, whist it has good colour depth is terrible for motion ghosting. DO NOT GO TO CURRYs OR SOME OTHER HIGH STREET MUPPET TO TEST YOU CHOICE OF TV - even if that is where you eventually go to buy the thing. Try and go to a smaller independent retailer where they can directly link up a good quality hi-def source and have set up the screens correctly. I hate to say USE THEM then go and buy it cheaper somewhere else once you have made your choice but they usually can't compete on price. Also, don't be fooled into watching some ScreenWorks cartoon as your test. This footage was originally created digitally so ALWAYS looks good and only looks better at full HD. Try and get an action movie on blu-ray and ask them to put that on - something with lots of motion and nice dark scenes. Batman- Dark Knight is a really good test to watch in HD or DieHard 4.0. I have also just bought a new Apple 27" imac with their new led back lit display and I have to say that the image quality is superb!!!! if only we could get this kind of quality on a larger (50" plus) screen then that would really be something. I am just about to change my main screen (the rear projector) for a flat panel and I will almost certainly go the high end plasma route. I would agree again with Hairdo that the new Pioneers are excellent and you can also never really go wrong with most Panasonics either. From a value for money/picture quaity perspective I don't think you can go wrong. Don't forget plasmas have a 10 year development headstart over LCD panels. The reason LCD's have been getting bigger and bigger is simply the weight of larger plasma units. (They weigh an absolute ton!!) NOT BECAUSE OF PICTURE QUALITY!!! Any real movie phile who knows his stuff will agree you get an overall better picture on an plasma to an LCD. Of course there are crap Plasmas and excellent LCD's but like for like - pound for pound plasma is better than lcd. But who knows.... give it 5 years and we will all be watching 3D hologram projectors or some other bo***cks!!!! Pay your money - take your choice!!
  22. :headvswal My auto box going pop the day I collected my new 300zx tt LWB is well documented on this forum but it was all down to a lack of maintenance by the last owner. The original had only done 47k miles. The reconditioned replacement has done over 80k miles and is driving beautifully. There are uprated coolers you can have installed and you should regularly check the separate autobox oil dipstick to see the condition of the gearbox oil (located right at the back of the engine bay). Sniff the dip stick and check for signs of burning or very black oil which could indicate overheating or premature wear inside the box. Most of all - if you are unsure at all - use a good specialist to help you. I cannot recommend Jeff over at Zedworld highly enough. What this man does not know about keeping your Zed on the road isn't worth knowing. Very knowledgable and great impartial advice.:bow: http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzc.html As long as you are as religious as you say about your auto servicing schedule then you should really have no more problems than with any other Jap manufactured item. However I do agree with some of the other guys here that they are not really designed to run much bigger power figures than stock. That is when you start to get problems.
  23. Do you know if it is the 19th or the 20th yet Jeff? Put me down as a definite maybe depending on which day..... If it gets me out of dinner with the in-laws - COUNT ME IN!!!!!
  24. Hi Guys, I am upgrading my head unit so I need to pick some higher wattage replacement speakers for throughout the car. I am not looking for some fancy install - just to replace the stock cans with better ones that will fit in all the same spots. Don't want the time and hassle of building enclosures or screwing with the interior. Can some one tell me what size all the current stock speakers in a JDM Series 2 LWB would be and am I right in saying there are just 4 speakers to replace ( 2 either side of the boot space and 2 more in the door cards) or are there some more tucked away somewhere?? Any info would be greatly received - especially if anyone knows the bolt pattern for each location. Many thanks in advance - Cyrus
  25. FunkySi, whist you are correct that it is probably not financially viable to put the plate on a retention certificate (you are correct when you say it is an old NI plate though the MILS theory might hold true) because that in itself is going to cost £80 to do. I don't think Craig will have a problem if he applies for a SORN and has the previous MOT and lets the DVLA know that he intends to scrap the vehicle. They would probably be fine with him retaining the plate then (I did a very similar thing with another car not so long back). I just don't know if you will actually make any money from it but it's worth a punt!!

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