CyrusJH

EBC make decent discs (I use them with GreenStuff pads for my rears) but there are much better out there. I would not recommend them as front discs if you are running anything other than stock power. I have heard numerous reports of them cooking and/or warping under hard use. You need to remember that the 300zx is an 1800Kg car and the front brakes take a majority of the brake loading. If you are fitting them to a tuned Twin Turbo you are looking at reining in 350-400Bhp. I really would not recommend the yellow stuff brake pads for road use - they have a poor cold use characteristic and a reasonably high disc wear rate. They are ok for medium to light track day use but you should really be looking at increasing your disc size and caliper power if you are seriously looking to track the car. You really need to decide what you are trying to achieve by changing your discs. If it is simply to improve braking performance for a stock N/A zed then these discs should be fine but I wouldn't recommend the pads. If your car is tuned or you are running a Twin Turbo then you will definitely notice an improvement over the standard brakes but I would not rule out looking elsewhere for brake improvement. To get significantly better brake performance then you need to be looking at changing your discs calipers and pads and it will give you a huge new confidence in the cars braking performance. I would recommend Ksport or D2 6 or 8 pot conversions on 330mm discs. More money I know but you will not believe the difference it will make.

I have never understood people who buy a car and stick it in an air bubble for 20 years!!! - what's the feckin point!!!!

I am not arguing that this is true - but assuming it is, does anyone know a way to reverse the effect bore washing? Jimmer - Help!!?

Can that actually work???? would you need 4 for a RWD? How much are they??? Quick easy alternative to chains?

hopefully the ice will have set as smooth as the roof of your car and by the time it slips off it should be pretty maliable so shouldn't harm your paintwork but to be sure, I always wash the car off with a few jugs full of tap WARM (NOT BOILING) water to make sure (I can hear some of you cringing as you're reading this but if you are careful it works every time!). DO NOT pour this straight onto your glass work but as long as your paint is in good nick it shouldn't damage the body at all and stops having dirty great clods of ice flying off your car!!

There's a big costco in Birmingham - off there tomorrow!!

I'd vote if it were running

I cannot recommend Grahams work highly enough!! He did a complete blue LED dash for my car along with the EL dials and it looks stunning - Graham - what are the three gauges you are running on the top of the centre dash? Where did you get them from and what are they reading? How much were they and did you need to convert them to match the rest of the dash? What kind of pod are they sitting in? They look so cool with that start up procedure. Also, what do I need to do to get the glovebox light and cigarette lighter to match the rest of the work you have done for me? Is is a simple switch? Please let me know as I am so close to getting this all finished now (new stereo/DVD/DVB/Reversing cam is all in now with new speakers all round!!) Top job as always mate - Regards and Happy New Year - Cyrus

Opened up my boot light holder to replace the bulb because I thought it had blown only to find THERE WAS NO BULB THERE!! Does anyone know what size/wattage/type of bulb is meant to go in there? Thanks as always!!:cool2:

Graham did my entire dash and it looks the mutts nutts!!!! Best mod I ever did!!

Hi There, Does anyone know where you can get 1 wheel re-lacquered - This is not strictly a 300zx post as it is for my wife's car but just 1 of the alloys seems have had the lacquer peel on it. Does anyone know someone in the West Mids that will re lacquer one alloy. I don't want it painted as these are lacquered alloys. I don't know if it would need refinishing at all as there seems to be a little surface corrosion on that one wheel. Other than the surface of the dish of the rim on that one wheel, the wheels are immaculate. I was looking for a recommendation - any suggestions would be gratefully received - someone who can do it from a mobile van would be even better. Let me know - Thanks - Cyrus

Already do that when the wifes not watching mate....:punk:

sorry for the repost guys - my bad.... but still - I feel like buying a tasteless black leather jacket and getting a bad perm!!

... Somebody stop me please.. I feel PayPal calling. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/300ZX-Z32-PARTS-Night-rider-lights-in-headlight-panel_W0QQitemZ380191059642QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5885272eba#ht_1183wt_941

I have just had my dipped beams converted to HID's and love the light that they give. I have changed my sidelights to a bulb that matches the colour of the new HID's much better. I wanted to change my main beam H1 bulbs to these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/H1-New-Philips-DiamondVision-Bulbs-5000k-pair_W0QQitemZ300379339357QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item45f000fa5d#ht_651wt_941 But I don't know the legality of these as main beam bulbs. My HID's are a 6000k colour temperature but I can't find H1 bulbs that are 6000k rated. Does anyone know the legality of these bulbs for road use or if there are 6000k colour rated bulbs available which give a really good beam and throw as I use this car at night A LOT!! Thanks for the help in advance - Cyrus:helpsmilie::helpsmilie:

Warm NOT BOILING tap water is fine for de icing but would always recommend pouring it on to the metal work and letting it run onto the glass rather than straight onto the glass. The WD40 trick works really well - a tiny bit of Vaseline does the same thing (but a bit messier on your glass) but keeps your door rubbers from cracking too!!

The master has returned........:bow::bow::bow: Got tickets for Monnaco.... can't fookin wait!!!!

Hi There - This may be a really silly question but I had my '92 TT LWB changed from auto to manual last week - but how do I get the spec of the car changed on my V5 (logbook)? Do I just contact the DVLA or are there reams of forms to fill out (if so which ones!)? I have already let my insurance know but I want all the docs to tie up. Thanks in advance Cyrus

Shit..... saw this too late!! HAPPY BOXING DAY!!!!

Can I ask, did you chrome or polish the plenum (looks polished from the pics but hard to tell for certain)?

"...... and on the 7th day, God looked down from heaven at the world he had created and said - "the world is good and I will balance it by creating a vegetable that they will eat on the day of my son's birth every year and I will call them sprouts....... ............and they will taste like vomit!!" :scared::scared::scared:

For that sort of money you should be looking for a full history and a damned sight more info on the car. I understand it may be selling for offers now but you have to wonder why. You can tell a lot from how someone advertises their car - If he had a really great car, don't you think he would be shouting about it. I have bought and sold A LOT of cars in my time and wouldn't touch this one with a ten foot pole. Steer clear. You could probably get a deal on this: http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1291176.htm or this: http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/1391842.htm I know its an auto, but you can always get that changed in the future. (I did) I went 200 miles down to deepest darkest cornwall to get my car and have enjoyed every day since. This is a big purchase for most people and you need to want to put in the leg work to get a goodun'!!

Good rubber, throttle modulation and a suspension setup that has compliance is the key to driving on Snow and Ice. Torque transfer systems and 4wd are all well and good and OF COURSE they work but there are plenty of powerful RWD rally cars that do just fine in the rain, snow and ice. I can't stress how understanding how your tyres react to snow and ice is important. You need to know when they will break away and what you can do to correct it. Suspension that has been slammed in the weeds looks great in Summer but doesn't give you anywhere to go when you break traction and makes the transition from grip to slip really severe. Also, listen to what your car is doing, listen for wheel slip - you will hear it from the revs rising before you feel it. You would be surprised how much easier a car is to drive in the snow with the stereo turned off than on!!! You hear the car moving around underneath you and you can hear when the tyres are biting and when they aren't. ALso, know when your turbos cut in and modulate your throttle accordingly - watch your boost pressures and stop the turbos cutting in if your feel you will get too much spin - drive a gear higher than you normally would etc. I use my car every single day and have always run big RWD V8's with 400+Hp. I know it can be scary if you aren't used to it and I would never encourage anyone to drive beyond the limits of what they are comfortable with, but I would say that there is no reason to be scared of a well set-up car with a modicum of skidpan driving experience. Your observation has to be 10 times better than it is on a dry day and it will be far less forgiving if you get it wrong but I really enjoy driving when the weather is crap out there because it allows you to move the car around a lot more. I know my opinion might be in the minority on here but this is what daily drive powerful cars are all about - drive ultra carefully and drive within your limits (however low that might be!!) but please guys - lets drive!!

:clap::clap::bow::bow::bow: I've said it before and I'll say it again to anyone that will listen - JEFF AND JAMIE ARE ZED GODS!!! they have bailed me out of more holes than I care to mention and Lynda keeps the coffee coming

The best Xmas gift you can have mate - show her off every chance you get - she's a little belter!!! Happy Xmas to the whole family!!!