AndyGP

Hi Andy - very sensible - but when your waiting for other bits to arrive/get made/chromed then one has to have something to do whilst waiting, and waiting and waiting ha ha lol. Jeez - you joined before in Feb 2001 - not many of us left man!

PCV VALVES Part number: 11810-40P00

When I did the PCV re-route - I used 2 x new passenger side hoses (11823-P01) and then a 10mm barbed hose joiner to attache the braided to the new connections - I assume I could have just as easily connected directly to the PCV valve with any reducer right? And or just spent 50p on two pipe cleaner/brushers to place in the pipe or maybe just a wire filter for free? Hmmmmm!

Question for you really Dan ;-)

The hoses that attach to the actual valves have little brushes in them to stop hard debris clogging the valve right? But they are only little brushes right - nothing special?

Well, I am about 10 hours into the polish now and that's the initial prep done - doing the grinding and shaping required to remove the castings and other unattractive features. My plenum casting was not very impressive to say the least - very pitted. And I have moved a lot of metal to get to where I am now. I estimate about another 8-10 hours at 120/200 grit wet and dry (hand and mouse) and then maybe 8-10 hours with the polishing wheels. So 30ish hours total. I am not going any parts that will not be seen - life is too short. :nono: I completed the balance bar in about 3 hours total - pics later. TOOLS: Most useful has been the Power File, but also the mouse, various size and shapes of wire wheel used in a drill, various files, Dremel, angle grinder and a 3" and a 5" sanding disk for the initial 60 or 80 grit work. COST: Consummables so far - £14.00 on velcro disks, £12.00 on Power file bands and about £10.00 on Mouse pads. Plus £20.00 on Dremel bits and about £20.00 on polishing kit/abrasive blocks etc. Hope that inspires someone to go for it themselves - will post some final pics when done.

I am shaking my colostomy bag as I type ;-) Oh on the car - yes of course lol

Yes indeed

Not the kit - just the valves - soz.

Only £4.50 at MJP currently... (Or at least they were)! Ooops

Hi, After talking to (racing) guys who know way more than I do - I have decided to scrap the 10mm intake spacer - Because the intake runners on the upper manifold flow into the lower manifold at a very shallow angle - the spacer will create considerable intake airflow turbulance - and that's not good. The most we can go [apparently] and still make a thermo gain between upper and lower plenum is 1/16" - also means I need to change from a rubber gasket to a phenolic laminate (possibly glass based) that will last 100K - not 6K ;-)) Lee can you speak to your man and get his views on this sir? More work to do chaps.

its between the lower and upper plenum - not the head and the upper plenum ;-)

I should still have one (or two, or three) - let me check at the weekend dude! What is the thickness of his gasket? Need any info then IM me or email me at andy.gp@gmx.com Cheers.

Quicker to cut and spade the connections dude...

Well it's ok for you to A:/Mention another forum and B:/Mention the word 'Sell' without getting struck off or lambasted right left and centre. Cos you are subscribed ;-)) If it's good for other members - that's all I care about really. Go for it - I am not here to make money.

...or check your local trading estate or Google for 'Metal plating' or 'Metal finishing and polishing' business in your area - times are hard at the moment and you can do a good deal by going direct to the factory unit. I did - and I have saved hundreds so far, and made some new mates and learned a bunch of stuff on the way. Hope that helps.

The difference in heat transference by [physical] conduction and basic convection is considerable. The upper plenum will only get [a little more than] half as hot when that physical connection is 'insulated' from the lower plenum/head/heat source. I have tested this (Ferrari/AM have ceramic/bakelite I believe) and it is a fact. I am trying 12mm solid (Silicon) Black Rubber (HARD) on the plenum currently as it is a crap heat conductor. I have gone a little mad with the throttle body spacers - making them out of 12mm clear acrylic and illuminating them with blue LED's - sorry Funky Si :rofl: Will let you know if they last/work/activate haters.. AndyGP :o

I have a vented bonnet and engine bay to wing vents - I think it would work for me. I guess it shoudl be easy enough to make theses out of 10mm hard black rubber sheet...

... anywhere. :confused: I have seen them for the Z31 - but not the Z32. "...provides a barrier for heat from the lower intake manifold to enter the upper intake plenum. Heat transmitted into the aluminum upper intake from the lower intake heats the intake air and reduces the engine's power potential. -Preliminary tests have shown between 20 and 80 degree F drops in intake plenum temperature, depending on conditions. -The 3/8" thickness also increases the intake runner length by the same 3/8" (.375"). -Also removes the requirement for a gasket between the plenum and lower manifold. "

I think I might hava go at this - I have most of the bits laying around - just need the fuel rail so...

Top feed are cheaper... yes they use a different spray pattern - but different does not mean bad right! The alternative is a 300degree fuel rail for £300.00 squids...

Hi Matey - Seems (at first look) pretty easy to me - fuel rail is about 30 squids a metre and connecting top feed injectors to a top mounted fuel rail via Braided and AN fittings seems a breeze. One could fabricate a new lower fuel rail a lot easier with top feed injectors like this Or just use top feed injectors and mount the fuel rail on the top of the engine like this - as mentioned above: Using this system will require some fabbing of injector clamps I assume. Any thoughts?

Anyone have any experience regarding the last part of the question? And when converting from the standard side feed to top feed - how are the new injectors generally secured in the head? Any info/experience appreciated.

....Fiberglass will be fine if you drill a couple hundred holes in the base bumper first, along the join - and rough the whole area up with an angle grinder - so the glass/resin has something to grip to.

And when converting from the standard side feed to top feed - how are the new injectors generally secured in the head? Any info/experience appreciated. :bow: