AndyGP

Hi Andy - the widest twill I have is currently 1.25M - your light panel is 1.5M (if a single piece) - the good news id 2M is the max width you can get - so yes it's very possible sir. What lights are you going to use? I am considering doing a similar thing using the R33 aftermarket lights like these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/93-98-Nissan-Skyline-R33-Red-Clear-LED-Lexus-Tail-light_W0QQitemZ120481967730QQcategoryZ72713QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BIEW%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D11%26ps%3D63 or these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CRYSTAL-SMOKED-TAIL-LIGHTS-4-SKYLINE-R33-1993-1998_W0QQitemZ220495267692QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item33568ac76c Be good to get another POV Andy. Cheers matey.:hyper:

Hi - I get all my supplies form CFS - I can highly reccomend them ;-)) http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/

Yes Andy - but this bit of cloth was damaged hence the test piece. I have done quite large pieces - not a whole bonnet/hood though - well not in CF - but I have copied OEM bonnets and boot lids to reduce weight etc for racers. And this will only be an overlay - not a true CF piece so... I am not selling - just looking for feedback as to if a CF scuttle would be killer cool or - overkill? ;-)~

Pictures above taken after the final flood coat was applied. Not cleaned up.

What I wanted to prove to myself was that painting the vented area worked visually and did not distract from the purpose of the overlay itself. I think it works for me - and when the next 10M arrrives I think I will spend a Saturday completing both parts of the scuttle. I think it will be worth the effort. What do you think? AGAIN: The CF I used was damaged so dont diss the wavey lines....

Hi, Couple of weeks ago I did a test overlay on the small scuttle piece below the windscreen today - I must emphasize that this was a damaged piece of Carbon Fibre Twill - in fact the last bit off of a roll - and it was stuck to the cardboard role and had been therefore stretched out of line so anyway... First I rubbed it over with some 60 and eventually sprayed it black. Then did the usual layer of resin - waited for it go super tacky - and placed the CF over the piece and pressed it in all those important likkle places ;-)) After about 20 mins I poured a floodcoat of surfboard resin over and left it to dry in my workshop oven. When cured I trimmed the piece and cut out the holes/groves as you see them. I them masked off the groves/vented area and sprayed with black gloss. Waited for that to dry then sanded gently to define the natural lines where the CF and black gloss merge. I then flood coated once more, cured in the oven, sanded, and added one more final flood coat of surfboard resin. At this point I would normally leave this to cure naturally for a day or so before finally rubbing down and clearcoating but..... This is only a test so I skipped that bit and just cut with 1000 grit and a quick whiz over with the polisher. :)

Any updates on this?

Will do Tudor - I shall be having a go at this the weekend (weather permitting).

Yeah I have just done this Jeff... ;-))

Yes indeed it would

Thats what I said above.

I may give it a try with the belts firmly clamped to the cam sprockets and the tensioner bolted - I will let you know....

Think it's best to just replace it with a new OEM one - seems too important to mess with. And whilst I have the lower plenum off... Not cheap - but 'No brainer'. Thanks guys.

Come on it's an 17 year old bit of kit that is a pig to remove (engine out) - it's gotta make good sense to move it whilst I am that deep into the engine?

Answers on a postcard please.... No seriously - any help appreciated ;-))

I guess this will give me access to the knock sensor right? Is it worth relocating it whilst I am in there? And if so where is the best place?

OK I have my modified lower plenum back now -and ready to fit - is it possible to remove the lower plenum by just de-tensioning/clamping the timing belt, removing the upper/middle idle pully - and then wiggling the lower plenum idle pully shaft out of the timing belt back cover hole carefully backwards? Or do I need to strip right back, remove cam sprockets, rear belt covers etc? (yes I already have the plenum off etc etc etc.) :rofl::rofl: I have no EGR to get in the way so...

Apparently matey there is no ref to the fuel temp sensor (standard ECU - JD Chip) other than related to the PRVR - which I have already deleted. So if the opportunity arises I think I may attach it to the 'Y' Splitter box and/or just ground/add resistor and delete it out of the engine bay I hope that helps anyone taking the same path...

Etch a sketch - good chance she will never know....

I guess this is what they call 'toilet humour then right! ;-) lol

..just a thought as I move to a Parallel feed system - might be good to measure the fuel temp in each rail ;-))

Hi Matey - stock ECU for now - but JD chip - do you think he (JD) could prog it out in the CHIP in some way? Any advantage/disadvantage? The 'Y' splitter is currently going to be on the wheel arch so maybe not a good place. Me thinks I may have to drill the new rail and mount it as near to where it was before! But then thats only really measuring the temp of 1 bank of cylinders - Hmmmmmm

I can confirm that if you have SAW (Shift At Will) that this is also safe to do. SAW uses power from the CC I believe - but it's not affected by this mod. ;-))

No Sensor/bad sensor wouldl create a P0180 code and probably an Engine Check red light on the dash right?

T'sok - this is just a clean hatchet job (delete) - no clean up required.