Pete.Watso

I thought drain plugs were on NA boxes only. I bought a underbed storage box on wheels from Wilko's circa £7, obviously remove the lid, but have now used it effectively on 3 Z's and didn't spill a drop. It is best to hinge it down from one end to get the bulk out. I have always replaced the gaskets but as they seem to come away in one piece attached to the sump pan and are a sod to get off! I am sure I could of used a bit of instant gasket and put the old ones back.

I am in the process of changing my NA auto prop centre bearing. I have a good 2nd hand bearing on a seemingly good front half of prop. Is it OK to mix this half with the existing? Or must I swop the bearing over onto my original prop. Also does it matter what orientation the spline end goes in the autobox? As I notice that the spline has two opposing keyways.

I have a couple of issues. In attempting to resolve prop vibration I have encountered rusty bolts probably fitted in japan to replace original studs on the back of the catalitic converter flanges, which couple to the after market stainless exhausts. I have managed to remove two of the original nuts from the studs, but the other two have been replaced with these bolts which have now sheared. What is the best way to remove these? One has sheared flush with the CAT flange, the other about 1/4" above. Do I grind flush and try to drill them out? There is not much room behind the flange to grip the end of the thread?? Also I intend to replace the centre bearing. I have an apparently good 2nd hand prop, but unfortunately it was sent in two halfs unmarked. Is it better to dismantle the existing prop and swop centre bearing or risk 1/2 and half? Or are the props balanced as a whole??

My slicktop TT auto has done it on and off for 7 years. I have just got used to engaging the ignition switch position and pausing for a second or two before operating starter motor and it usually doesn't happen. However I am in the throws of another autobox replacement and changing flex plate at the same time. It used to be a common problem with Triumph 2000/2.5 Pi autos where the starter pinion wears the drive plate ring gear teeth in common resting places.

Maybe seized brake calipers, but probably collapsed /offcentre propshaft centre bearing and seized U/J's.

As above are there any differences between :confused:between UK and Jap Z32 TT auto gearboxes?

The pump is not seized but does seem to be a bit rough on turning it. Presumably a you would you just unbolt and replace? or do you have to depressurise first? Are the aircon pumps all the same? i.e TT NA Mk1 & 2 etc

Just recently purchased a 1991 N/A auto LWB and have began to look over it. Looking inside my N/A engine compartment from the front on the right hand side under the main induction hose & Fuse box, there is a single connector with a blue wire which is unplugged. Any idea what it does? I have also have noticed that the aircon belt is missing don't know whether that is anything to do with it? Is it possible belt was removed because of the aircon is U/S? or did it snap and was never replaced. Or do people remove it gain more efficiency?

I'm afraid I have to agree. Mines done the same for no reason. Behaves sort of OK until warm then won't go into 3/4th. My oil was also browny. I dropped the sump to find lots of metal particles on the magnet. I cleaned it all out, fitted new filter (although TBH old filter is OK) and fitted new gasket & oil. Alas still the bloody same. Still not sure what to do keep it, manual conversion or buy another? Trouble is it's a slick top TT with genuine 56K miles.

What cost are new manual gearboxes on group buy?

I am a car enthusiast I have had this car since 2000 at 37K. I blew the original box trying to see what it could do, but as is norm was cut up and took emergency action which unfortunately meant I touched OD button. The rest was history. Faced with the Man/auto decission finally bought a good 2nd hand box as couldn't get the sums to add up. Now after 2 years and probably 2K miles of easy use it does not want to change up to 3&4. I certainly have not caned this box and it has never given any noises, had leaks etc. I can't believe you cannot remove most of the oil with out removal? I had a NA which had a auto failure after paying for a double oil/filter change and I don't want to do the same. I can't believe this motor has such a weak box. I am seriously thinking of leaving the fold. I have owned/maintained Triumph 2000/2,5's for nearly 30 years and found them totally reliable...:mad:

Ok I've read the technical articles on auto tranny oil changing, but now I am ready to do the dead, SWB TT front wheels up on ramps and to my horror no drain plug. Surely if I begin to remove sump bolts I am going to get showered! Is it not feasible to disconn:bow:ect a pipe and direct into a container whilst engine is running? or am I tempting fate?

I have noticed that my TT autobox is struggling to change up to 3rd? This is especially noticeable from cold and after stopping for a while. There are no noises and the changes are smooth when they happen, Sometimes at slower speed (30-40) there is a almost bouncing like feel, as if it is trying to change up/or down? I hope this is not another complete failure as this is a replacement box! I have not over worked the box so I am hoping it is a lack of use scenario. I have a new filter, gasket and oil. Do you think this will cure? I have had auto failure before on this low mileage SWB TT which was my fault (trigger happy on overdrive at high speed!!)and on a NA which was always noisy and felt like it was struggling. This box feels like it needs either a hydraulic switch kick or an electronic one?

Blimey I was almost tempted by the description and pics. What I don't understand is why the bidding went mad half way through? Surely if you were going to look you would have waited? Was it that bad though? Was the d/blue leather original?

Hi I rejoined and paid a couple of months ago. I must admit to being rather inactive, but it appears I cannot reply to posts etc ??

I have recently had the pleasure of having some work done on my Z at Chris's new premises. I found him very accomodating, enthusiastic, passionate, caring and above all had my car repaired in a proffesional manner. It is early days with regards to settling in to the new premises, but I think he has some good plans and the premises / location are excellent. I didn't have any personal experience with the old firm, so can't comment. I do understand that Chris had learnt of certain inherent staffing issues and also had a scare on the property lease, but these have been addressed / resolved. I can vouch that his two mechanics that I saw seemed very capable. I hope he will continue to grow his buisiness and be able to offer our Z's a safe haven when the need arrives, which unfortunately seems to be all too often!

my Z1 prop didn't do the job for me.

could also be sagging gearbox mount. They look OK but if it bottoms out makes a lot of vibe.

My experience is the same as Jacks. However I didn't get to change the exhaust mounts. My 1 piece prop ran true but still had vibes. I replaced gearbox mount with new, tried lowering the box but still vibes at 55+MPH, sold the car (or gave it away in todays marketplace). I would stick to trying to rectify the original prop. My lesson cost nearly 4 figures.

I must admit I am a stickler for originality and I have a SWB TT slicktop in gunmetal grey which is totally original (owned for 7+ years) but will meet the same fate sooner or later due to weathered paint etc. I also owned until a couple of months ago the Lambo Orange Z shown in SWZ'S pics and it does look the dogs. Apart from turning heads I think it really suited the mark, a shame they didn't do it before the 350-Z burnt orange launch! What I would add though was this was applied as far as I could make out directly onto a flatted standard silver. Lambo recommend I believe a white undercoat? Anyway the result was a great shean... Wonder where the motor is now? went to Northumberland but immediately advertised for +£1Kish in the autotrader.

I had noises like that coming from my NA LWB auto, not long after that the gearbox lost all drive when it was stationary in park. I hope yours is not the same! They are lovely cars when there going well...

Don't have a problem with that Paul except I'm off to Mauritius to get hitched this Friday. Was hoping the Jaffa was going to 100% for the blessing, but luckily got my trusty Triumph 2000 to do the honours and maybe the slicktop shorty for a couple of naughty nights away, Clifford permitting. When I get back we can sort things out. It's OK if you want to drive around at 45-50, but after that it drowns out most music. The other problem is if I could get the original fixed you have the centre mount fixings. By the way a replacement alternator cured then bad egg problem, but not after shafting my shorties battery!

I would be wary of a one piece prop as it hasn't worked perfectly for me. Mines a LWB NA auto. Prop came from USA.

I have a good deal with Footman's a classic group vehicle policy unlimited mileage. around £ 350ish 67 Tri 2000, 1999 Maestro, 91 SWB TT. Also been very happy with AON in the past.

I'll have a better look tonight, as only being used as a taxi for my other halfs hen night. From memory it looked like the original nissan wiring had been converted to conform to JVC set up OK with no other external amp wiring. I will pm previous owner also. My friend said there was initially some sound, went intermittent then silence. This is why he assumed head unit was U/S.