Pete.Watso

all models concerned are jap imports

By the rear side pods you mean in the back passenger compartments, in the boot? Sorry to sound dumb but my other car is a SWB. The LWB has speakers bodged in original apperture door fronts and some large diameter affairs bodged in the boot side panels. The boot light left removed/ dangling. As for my mates, his has what looks like a better red coloured oval speaker installation in the door positions, not sure about the rears. As there is no sound didn't look further and my lunchbreak ran out!

I have just looked at a mates 93 LWB TT as he complained that the CD head unit was U/S no sound and was going to Halfords for a new one! Having swopped over with a known working unit there is still not a whisper. Is their another amp? If so where is it? Does it have a fuse? If so where? My own 1990 NA LWB runabout has sounds but pretty crap by todays standards. Has replacement speakers of reasonable standard and Sony head unit. I assume this has another amp also. A readable/ printable wiring diagram would also usefull.

I had already gone through that exercise. New gearbox mount , centre bearing autobox etc (still plently of vibes). That is why after much advise went for 1 piece prop. I think I need to lower the box to make it more inline with the diff. Hopefully get less wang from the prop. The autobox certainly was a big contributor though.

Fitted replacement alternator (thanks to Bigmincey! for quick supply) last night (a bit of a tight squeeze!) and at last it looks like things are improving. No overcharging, no squeals, aircon OK and autobox changes happier. Just need to sort out 1 piece prop. Thinking of lowering autobox to see if vibes decrease? Anyone else done this with success? :hyper:

I sourced a new radiator in Feb this year, suitable for a 300zx NA from Applied Radiators Stoke On Trent. I paid around £95ish delivered listed at £79. It is listed as a Nissan Maxima N1391 but is identical to a NA! All you have to do is drill 4 holes for the plastic surround self tapping fixings. It even had 300zx on the box. They were not aware of it at the time, but I now see the list price has gone up to £118.15. This is still reasonable as I got quoted £235-250! It is an excellent spanking new product, shame the same can't be said for propshafts!!

I would of had my original prop rebuilt had there been UJ's available. I was quoted circa £400 this didn't include centre bearing. So I had no option in the end (as second hand were just as knackered). At present I have spent close on £1000 trying to fix this vibe problem and seriously thinking of throwing in the towel. I have owned numerous Triumph 2000 2.5's over and still have one. They are notorious for prop vibes, but you can still easily fix them at home. Parts available and better engineered design.

I take your point and yes I have a lower mileage SWB slicktopp TT which is fine now... But surely if the supply of useable new UJ's has dried up (on back order sometime never!?) then it is in all of our interests to find a long term economical solution. I was advised that the way to go was 1 piece prop, but what was that based on? Supply and demand/ guess work?

Already swopped battery from my TT slick top so I know batterries are still serviceable. Going to get another alternator and see what happens then !? By the way has any other member fitted a 1 piece prop from the states that works OK? i.e no vibration

1990 NA auto Not sure if these are all connected? The aircon has always been a little tempremental. Dried out all electrics and changed aircon dash console, which seemed to do the trick, but today I noticed no aircon. It comes back on if I hit a bump brake? Also if I turn the ignition on (no aircon) press brake pedal relay clicks to release auto gearlever and aircon activates. Also the alternator is boiling battery, I can measure constant 10A but anything from 14.6 to 16.6 volts. There has been an intermittent belt squeel. This lunchtime I have tightened the aircon and alternator belts, but :confused: there still seems to be a high pitched scream on bringing up the revs. Unfortunately on my own so couldn't listen to where the exact noise was coming from because couldn't rev and hold ear to a tube/screwdriver... Also plugged and unplugged all engine looms near relay/fusebox, swapped all relays around and cleaned lefthand sensor conections near top rad hose. Still no different. I have recently had the autobox changed and the ignition button isolated, would these have any effect? Car drives OK but not really liking the bad egg fumes from the battery. Is it the alternator failing or is there another relay or regulator somewhere else?

Unfortunately I never saw the prop as fitted by SWZ, but I'm sure it would be balanced. My wheels are in balance, have some play in diff output shafts, but I'm sure it's the prop. The noise gets worse as you apply load over 60MPH. Has any one else got a silent 1 piece prop?

I've just had a replacement autobox and 1 piece prop on LWB NA and have the exact same symptons!! I have new gearbox mount etc. Had spent several £100's trying to recon old prop/bearing, which never got rid of the vibe, but now the vibration is different, bearable, but I am sure it is going to get worse. Did your prop come from the States?

:xxx: Just to let you know there is a bad Z seller who has currently been on Ebay breaking on the IOW. His handle is "zodiacmk4". I would tread very carefully as he has fleased me and I see another Ebayer is not happy. Unfortunately I bought via a wanted ebay mail and so cannot shop him. I will be taking legal action though.

Does anyone know of a good insurance approved alarm imoboliser installer around Andover Hants. Insurance company demand Cat2 minimum. I have a friend who needs one too. His has a turbo timer, can that still be used on a CAT2 ? or will it have to deinstalled. So far have called 2 local companies and been quoted £125 & 150 +VAT. I'm sure I could do better.

I found it on http://WWW.300zx.org.uk in the technical folder under Electrical Good site for fixes.

Thanks for the advise Re-soldered all the joints, which didn't look too bad. Also fettled switch assy now working fine. Also did the cruise control mod so now good for 140+KM. Easy when you know how! Stiil need to get a propshaft though. Does the one piece do the trick?

I had the panel off yesterday fixing an intermittent speaker connection, from previous owners. The classis "Knot" joint and "pliers" crimp! (obviously eco friendly) Is the control box the black unit roughly in the middle off right, about 4" x1"x1" in size? Sorry to sound a moron.

The passenger door window on my 1990 NA LWB doesn't work. There is no sign of life not even relay clicking. The drivers side works fine. My 1991 SWB TT N/S window has been intermittent before as well. Any ideas what I look for?

Can anybody recommend a good outdoor car cover to fit a SWB Z32. It's my birthday and I thought I might blag one from the MRS! I've had cheep ones for other vehicles in the past and they do more damage than good. I don't want my rear spoiler getting ruined etc...

Please help! My SWB '91' Z32 (85K km) autobox has lost 3rd and overdrive. It drives perfectly otherwise on the first two gears. It happened yesterday when I must admit I did open her up! Having had to slow, due to traffic from around 150 to 85-90, I then flicked out of overdrive to help the braking, on reacceleration there was an audible 'pop' and then no drive?? I coasted back to work and have carried out the diagnostic check, which revealed no faults. There is no fluid loss and the fluid appears to be clean. Any ideas?? Please tell me its not costly!