Mike Duffy

Get a metal bar. Put one end to your ear and the other against the injector. You should hear it ticking. Try each one to compare the difference.

Doesn't mean it's the coil pack mate. Just means it's something on that cylinder. For example, if the injector wasn't firing for some reason, connecting/disconnecting the coil pack wouldn't change a thing. Swap the coil pack with one from another cylinder and see if the problem stays with the coil or stays with the cylinder.

If you would mate that would be good. My duty cycle for 1 bar ranges from 46% at 3000rpm to 63% at 6500rpm.

The pressure sensor is located as in the attached picture. It is mounted vertically and the hoses from the turbos, etc, are all of equal lengths. The green arrow shows where the boost monitoring connection is made. The red arrow shows where the line is t-pieced with the pressure sensor line going towards the bulkhead. The blue arrow shows the pressure sensor mounted on the bulkhead.

The main self learning function is for the duty cycle at different RPMs and it appears to have learnt this very well. The graph of duty cycle vs RPM has changed quite considerably under the self learning and it now gives a perfect steady boost once the target level has been reached. I.e. It boosts very briefly to between 1.05 and 1.15 bar then settles down to 1 bar. It sticks almost perfectly to 1 bar right up to the red line. My problem is due to this initial overshoot which I've tried overriding the other self learning stuff to control (i.e. start duty, gear based learning, etc). However, none of the parameters seems to be able to sort it out. Surely someone else has got one of these fitted. What are your findings and/or settings? Cheers.

I installed the AVC-R a few weeks back. However, I'm having real difficulty getting rid of some boost spikes. The unit was relatively easy to configure for two boost levels of 0.8 bar and 1.0 bar and went into self learning mode. However, I can't get rid of initial boost spikes. It's hard to explain this one so I've knocked up two graphs which I've attached to this post. The spikes are overshoot spikes where the boost first rises. After that, the boost is very stable. The boost appears like the first graph I've attached. I've tried reducing the start duty to get rid of the spikes but that just makes it go like the second graph I've attached. This is no use at all as I end up on reduced boost for most of the rev range. I've tried disabling/enabling gear based learning. I've played with start duty, feedback speed, etc, all to no avail. Has anyone successfully set one of these up to dial out these spikes? If so, any suggestions would be very welcome as would details of your settings. Cheers Mike Graph 1 Graph 2

Errrrr... ok.

Yep that would be me. My knock was quite quiet though. But I did drive it for about three months with the knock! The crank polished out but if yours sounds that bad you might have bigger worries. I did it all myself and added loads of performance bits while I was at it. But if you were just to pull the engine and do the bearings, you're probably only looking at a few hundred pounds for parts.

http://www.3gbrakes.co.uk/main.htm

Easy way to tell if it's your TPS mate. Disconnect it and drive it around. The car will still run, albeit not as well. If the problem goes away, buy a new TPS. If it doesn't, you're looking in the wrong place.

I should definately be there 'coz even if I break down on the way, it's less than a mile from my house!

Ahaa! Of course. Forgot about the stock bleed valves as I don't have any anymore!

Not quite. I used to work writing computer simulations for water pipes and I also had problems getting to grips with this when I first started. A restriction in a pipe provides an increase in pressure upstream and a decrease in pressure downstream only while there is fluid flowing through it. In the wastegate pipe there is no flow of gas, apart from the marginal flow as the pressures are equilised on either side. I've never seen a boost jet but I would presume the restriction is absolutely tiny if that's how it works. If that's the case, it's going to provide a VERY variable amount of boost.

If you crush a hose pipe less water flows through it but the pressure stays the same (apart from frictional losses and tuberculation). Also, you shouldn't have any significant flow through the boost jets as there's nowhere for it to go. I must admit I've always been intrigued with how the boost jets actually work. It doesn't make sense to me either.

Male or female? ...

Attach bog standard brackets to these points...

They take boosted air to and from the intercoolers. That's why there's four. If you look carefully, you'll actually find there's six hoses there! The two underneath take measured air under vacuum to the turbo compressor inlets. The air then comes forward from the turbo compressor outlet to the intercooler. Then back to the throttles after the intercoolers.

You should have given me a call mate. Had the same bolts problem and I've got a set here. Good luck mate.

You can change that quite easily. You may have to remove the hard pipe going down to the turbo but that's all.

That's why I couldn't find them. I didn't realise you needed such fancy slingers! Nissan supplied I presume?

Has anyone ever located the positions mentioned in the workshop manual. I looked for them when the engine was out just out of interest. Couldn't find anything that looked remotely like the pictures in the manual though.

Yep, that's what I did.

Bloody hell! That sound nasty. I've never actually paid much thought to where the dipstick actually sits in the sump. I suppose it must come close to something. I just hope your dipstick was bent beforehand and nothing else.

Oh yeah, and to be honest, you probably just need to get your wheels balanced.

There is an easy test for this mate! It sounds like your mechanic is right. If you want to eliminate anything transmission related (i.e. rear mount, propshaft, etc), just put your foot on the clutch! If it's still there, it's nothing to do with the transmission. If you want to eliminate anything from the engine backwards, turn it off! You'll obviously lose power steering, etc, so make sure you're safe and ready to bump start it again. But forget anything to do with propshafts, transmission, etc, if it doesn't go away with the clutch in.