Mike Duffy

Thanks for the input mate. The rod and cap still have all the markings in them from the original machining. The machine shop said this indicated the bearings hadn't turned and everything should be ok. Does this sound right?

Car passed its MOT yesterday, despite someone hitting me from behind on my way there (no damage luckily). It's been off the road for 18 months while I replaced big end bearings (for the second time), turbos and various other bits. Engine's now been out three times. So happily drove the car to and from work yesterday. All was well. Took it out for an hour today and I'm starting to hear the tell tail knocking of the bloody big end bearing again! There's obviously something else wrong that I'm missing. I've had the crank polished and replaced the bearings with same size once. I've had it ground and replaced with oversize once. And it's always the same bearing that goes. What am I missing? The bearings hadn't turned in the rod and the rods appeared ok. The only things I can think of is there is a blockage inside the crank carrying the oil from the main bearing to the big end bearing in question. Or that the rod is somehow damaged. When the first bearing went, it didn't go big style. It gradually got worse over about 10,000 miles. I eventually decided to replace it. The new bearings lasted about 5,000 miles before one let go big time. The crank was reground and oversize bearings fitted. These have lasted a few hundred miles before failing again. I've not pulled the engine yet but I'm guessing it will be the same bearing again. All comments and suggestions appreciated.

St Helens

I need a HICAS link arm, part number: 48521-35A06 Anyone got one? (traders and second hand welcome)

To complete the car for its MOT I need the following: 2 rear wheel bearings 2 brake lines (the solid ones that go from the front calipers to the flexible hoses) They're the tricky ones and I'm guessing they're likely to be Nissan main dealer only. However, I also need a horn if anyone's got a second hand one. Cheers Mike

Am I too late?

http://www.symatix.co.uk/300zx/EngineRemoval/EngineRefitting.htm http://www.symatix.co.uk/300zx/EngineRemoval/EngineRemoval.htm

Sorry everyone. They're on my server here. My ADSL line's been down for 5 weeks 'coz apparently that's how long it takes BT to fix it! And dealing with Demon and BT's call centres in India is no fun at all! They should be available again now.

Rugby of course.

I guess that's a no then.

No one know how much the slave cylinder moves on their car?

Moves straight away mate. Got a tiny bit of free play at the top of the pedal then feels solid all the way down. The slave push rod is engaged right against the release fork and starts to move as soon as the pedal takes up the free play.

Bttt

Anyone know how much travel there should be in the slave cylinder push rod? I'm still having problems with gear selection and I've pressure bled the system to death, adjusted the pedal travel to the top and adjusted the free play to give the maximum travel as well. I get less than 2cm travel. If anyone's got their car up on stands, I'd hugely appreciate someone measuring this so I can help locate the source of my woes! Cheers.

I've got one from underneath. Not sure if this is what you're looking for though.

Hi All Not been working hard on the car recently as I bought a daily runner to use while getting the Z fixed. However, put the engine back in a few weeks back and that seems to be running good. Also, nearly finished painting the rusty rear panel which I should hopefully finish at the weekend. Exhaust is still blowing a bit which shouldn't take too long to weld up hopefully for the MOT. However, I'm having clutch problems. The pedal had gone pretty low the day before the turbos blew, which I'd though at the time must be due to fluid leakage. Forgot all about it and took the engine out, did the work and put it back in again. I've pressure bled the lines with more than seven litres of fluid! I've adjusted the clutch travel right up to the top. But I'm still having problems disengaging the clutch. The friction plate is brand new but the pressure plate (Smithy's RPS) and the release bearing are about 8,000 miles old. When I press the pedal right down, it's still dragging. Also, sometimes there is a whine coming from the clutch area when the pedal is pressed. It doesn't appear to be leaking any fluid from the lines or cylinder as the reservoir level hasn't changed. I'm starting to think the clutch fork may have bent or broken. Any ideas? The noise is obviously coming from something in the release mechanism.

Thanks for the replies everyone. Wez, is that the one off Sutton Road?

Where can I get spray paint from to match my black 300ZX? I mean spray paint to put in my paint spray gun, not cans.

I think it's definately well worth re-reading the above post before posting anything else everyone!

No, I tell a lie. It was seven years ago in 1998. The car's a late '92 UK model and was therefore less than six years old. So I'm one of the people on this site who can lay claim to having owned their Z for the majority of its life!

Paid £18,000 six years ago.

Hi mate Housings are cracked around the waste gates. Going to probably get another pair of Turbo Technics hybrids as they've lasted quite a long time considering. And they're quite cheap compared to others.

Thanks karlosg. Come on boys. I can't believe there isn't more opinion on this!

Sent my Turbo Technics stage 1 hybrids back to them last week to see what's up. They've done about 75,000 miles over five years so can't really complain. However, apparently, they're totally shafted and can't be repaired so I'm looking for new ones. I've haggled them down to £1060 + VAT for a new pair. I'm now open to any recommendations as to alternatives so please give me any ideas and views you may have. And if you're a trader, make me an offer!

You have four feet, four brake pedals, four brains and the ligaments of a hummingbird?