Mike Duffy

I'm new to air tools and I've just bought an air ratchet wrench from B&Q. However, either I'm using it wrong or it's knackered. With the compressor set to the correct pressure, I can quite easily grap the socket and stop it turning. When I do this, you can hear air rushing out of the bottom of the wrench. Am I doing something wrong or is it bust?

I've got a question from a buyer on e-bay who is interested in my radiator (he may be a member on here already, I don't know). He wants to know if my twin turbo radiator would fit his N/A. I've looked at the two parts and they are very different. However, would does anyone know if the twin turbo model would fit as a potential upgrade? Cheers Mike

I'll back you up on that Andy! Also, I've had dealings with Dave and found him to be very helpful and honest.

Actually it would run pig lean. You need to open 555s for a shorter amount of time to get the same fuel. If so, the warning light could easily come on for various reasons. Have you done an ECU diag to see what they fault code is?

Which beer has the least mass?

Neil, do you have any relatives named Nelson and do you have any phobias relating to mass? Can't think why I'm asking this, it just popped into my head.

Moist.

Anyone for half time oranges?

Thought about that but the wiring loom that this is a part of (main internal loom) is earthed in several places and, as far as I know, is shared between all the devices in the loom. The two oil level warning lights share the same diode pack in the passenger footwell so I though I'd try disconnecting that to see what it affected. And as you'd expect, it just stops those two lights lighting up at all. Big news! It's really got me this one.

Driving to work this morning when the following happened: Transmission oil warning light came on, Diff oil warning lights came on, Failed light bulb warning light came on, Battery light glows faintly, Turbo guage stuck to the far left of the guage. The odd thing is that all the above lights normally come on with the ignition key then go off when the engine is started. Now they don't come on with the ignition key but light up AFTER the engine is started! Car drives fine and the boost level reads fine on the AVC-R. However, it does seem slightly unhappier idling than before. Measured the voltage across the battery. !3v with engine off. 14.1v with engine on. Any ideas?

Don't do it! I've had an overheating problem for a while now. Hopefully it will be resolved as of today as I've just fitted a big Koyo radiator (courtesy of NE Performance). However, my fan shroud was totally shredded when I rebuilt my engine so I removed it entirely. I still had the overheating problem and, recently, it had got very very bad. I had to drive with the heater on and, even then, I couldn't go over 70mph or the needle would head north. I bought a new fan shroud from Dave C (top bloke, highly recommended) and the difference was remarkable. I didn't have to drive with the heater on unless I wanted to hammer it. And if I did hammer it, as long as the heater was on it was fine. Hopefully the new radiator will solve the problem all together. Now the point being, albeit with an obvious cooling problem, the fan shroud made a big difference. And not just a difference at low speed/stationary. The biggest difference I noticed was at high speed. Personally, I would have expected the shroud to be more of a hinderance at high speed. Funneling all that nice high speed air through a smaller hole can't be good. So if any physics experts would like to explain that one I'd love to hear it. But, in my humble, personal, opinion... don't remove your fan shroud if you're thinking of it. It's not just there for traffic jams!

How much are they selling them for?

Need an air flow meter again. My replacement second hand one has just gone the same way as the first one. Don't believe it! http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=36475

I've got an MOT coming up but my drivers side rear light cluster is covered in cracks. Is this an MOT failure? If so, can you just replace the cover to this or do I need a whole new cluster? Cheers

I remembered going on holiday to Orkney once so I had a quick search for a postcode there. KW15 1NX Try it. They're a bunch of weird ****ers on Orkney.

Now to be fair, some of my best friends watch football and some of them aren't even gay. So there you go.

I watched a bit of the footie at the weekend. Only 'coz it was on of course, I'm not gay or owt! What fecking nonsense. Not once did they pick the ****ing ball up. And round? ROUND?! What sort of shape is that for a ball?!!! Honestly, I ask you.

Yep. Mine did that. Eventually just snapped off entirely.

Good plan! Just emailed him.

Ta all. So does anyone know anywhere in the UK I can get one quick?

How long did it take SGP to deliver it mate? I need mine in a hurry.

Anyone know where I can braided clutch hose from as mine's just gone pop. Cheers.

Good work Nelson! You're one seriously obsessed guy! New question. If car A has a low MASS collection of small dog clutch engaged gears attached to it and car B has heavy lumps of metal churning a puddle of ATF, which one would be the faster... I'll get my coat.

True... in a closed system where you haven't got a variable source of pressure regulated by waste gates.

It's straight forward mate. Have a breaker bar or something similar to hand in case the caliper bolts are tight.