Mike Duffy

You took your time mate! We've been waiting for you.

Try this. Open that picture next to a browser showing those threads when he was on here. Read about him bigging himself up and keep looking at the picture. BWAHAHAHA! dot dot dot

Anyone know the best place to get Redline MT90 from? And I make it 3.1 litres of the stuff to fill the gearbox up is that right?

Sorry dunno about a write up mate. I just used the online manual.

Has anyone ever found anywhere where you can get replacement connectors for the wiring harness. E.g. injector connectors, etc. I fancy replacing a lot of the wiring but I'm buggered if I'm paying hundreds of pounds for a Nissan replacement. It's only a few connectors and some wire! Are they proprietary Nissan connectors or could something to replace them be sourced elsewhere?

You're right mate, it's not a cambelt off job. You don't even have to remove the belt covers. Should only take you an hour or two.

Try this mate. If you have got a big boost leak and you're losing metered air, it will run like a bag of crap. Try disconnecting the AFM and see how it runs. Without the AFM the car will run half reasonably based on the input from the TPS. It won't go over 2,500 rpm though (I think that's the rpm value). If it starts to run a lot better with the AFM disconnected then the fault lies in the AFM, the AFM wiring or a big boost leak. I would suspect the latter based on your off road excursion.

Hi mate Have you tried pulling the plug on the TPS???? Could save you a lot of money. Just unplug it and drive the car around. If the cutting out disappears, all you need to do is buy a new one, unscrew a couple of screws and put the new one on. Cheap and simple. Very very very simple. If you want someone could take a photo of where it is and what to disconnect. I would but the engine's in my garage so it wouldn't be of much use!

Hi mate I presume you ground a spanner down to squeeze in between the gusset and the oil filter bracket. I thought about this after buying three different ones to see if I could get one to fit. But I eventually came to the conclusion that even if I could get a spanner up there, the bolt would be too long to come out. I now presume I was wrong!

How did you get the sump bolts out with the rear gusset in the way?

If you need to change the sump it's an engine out job (presuming it's a turbo model). There's no way you can get it off from underneath. Believe me... I've tried! It's difficult to tell from that picture though mate. Can you get a brighter one so I can compare it to mine. Mine's off and in the garage so I can put the oil pick up back in and see where it fits in relation to any damage you may have.

Hey mate Hopefully the attached pic should help. This shows the oil filter bracket off the car. I've highlighted the connection I presume Stu is on about.

Pull the plug on the TPS mate. I've suggested it already and it's a 30 second job. The worse that can happen is it will confirm that the TPS is not broken. The best that can happen is you'll have found your fault. Give it a go and let us know the result. This is exactly the sort of problem caused by a bust TPS.

Check the TPS mate. The easiest way is simply to disconnect it. The car won't run as well obviously but if the problem goes away, the TPS is the problem so buy a new one.

I'm not called Mike. Can I be a Dave?

Thanks guys. Stuart's place in Blackburn sounds like a good bet to me. I'll probably pop it down there and see what they think. Do you have any contact details Stuart? Cheers.

Ok, I'm going to have the crank reground and oversize bearings fitted. Does anyone know anyone VERY good to do the work in the north west? Cheers.

As you can probably see, the crank does appear slightly marked. But this will probably buff out. It still feels perfectly smooth to the touch. Does anyone have an opinion as to whether I should regrind the crank or go with it as it is?

And just for reference here is part of the crank where a good bearing was removed from.

And this is the crankshaft where the bearing was removed from.

This is a picture showing half of the worn bearing next to half of a good one.

Got the crank out today. Had to remove one of the rear engine gussets to get to the bolts on the sump. Had to remove the oil filter housing to get to the bolts on the rear gusset. Had to remove a turbo to get to the bolts on the oil filter housing. Got there in the end though! Found why there was a slight knock. It was one of the big end bearings as suspected. Only problem now is I can't decide whether to just replace the bearings or have the crank ground. The knock was never that bad and most mechanics I showed it to couldn't even hear it! So here, and below, are some pictures of what I've taken out. As always, opinions are gratefully received.

Reckon I can be there mate. Better get cracking on getting my engine back in then.

Does anyone have any rocking horse sh1t for sale?

Surprisingly easy mate. Taking the plenum off was probably more complicated! Once I had that and the gearbox off, there's only a handful of other things to come off. Once word of advice though. Disconnect the steering column lower joint. I forgot and very nearly banged into it a few times on the way up. I'm definately going to separate this before I put the engine back. The main problem was the engine is so far in from the front and the sides. I managed to get the crane in from the side and then only just. I had to have it on the longest extension which is only rated for 250Kg (I'm pretty sure this is pushing the limit on the VG30DETT). Then, on the way up, I had to pull the engine towards the side as the distance between the upright and the end of the crane arm shortens as it moves upwards past the horizontal. But everything went to plan and it's now sat in the garage. So good luck when you do yours and I'm here for any help you need. Cheers