Everything posted by John Dixon
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Ho Hum AFM Question!
You're unlikely to pull more unless you've got some big turbos on there. There is a limit table in the ECU which 'stops the engine drawing more air' if you exceed a certain TP value (TP = f(rpm, AFM Voltage)). Not 100% sure how it stops it drawing air, but I'd guess at an ignition cut.
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essential upgrades....?
To me the biggest problems are handling and brakes, so: Skyline Brakes Remove Hicas Change speedo converter for UK clocks. Change shocks / springs Full poly bush kit Will at least then have a stable base to put more power onto.
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Rebuild of SMW1 has now started...
Contact Chip direct, he's always helpful and has most likely got dyno charts and compressor maps he can mail you. I've still got that offer of 530's for £800 but still after the exact spec to make sure they're a match.
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Rebuild of SMW1 has now started...
You need 5 bolt for JWT530's. The flange pattern that changes is the turbine outlet, not the DP / Front pipe one. Should be excellent when it's done.
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Rebuild of SMW1 has now started...
The Escorts are generally regarded as the best there is and have been proven to outflow the pentroofs etc. But they're $2210 :eek: Just beat me to it Jaffa! GMS550BB's some in at $2300 vs $3200 for JWT530's. All these prices are just straight off AMZ website, so you can probably pick it all up cheaper.
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Rebuild of SMW1 has now started...
I'd go for (preferably) escort, or pentroof manifolds rather than dupree, the design of them is terrible TBH. Also, speak to Ginn about 550bb turbos, 530's without paying for the JWT name by all accounts. Think for the NA diff you have to change the whole subframe. Go CUSCO with a lower ring gear might be a better idea, stronger than the NA one and a plate type as well. Lot more $$ though :(
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Chip!
Yours is gone Jock :)
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Anybody fitted one of these?
You'd be better connecting them in 'parallel' instead of 'series' as the pressure drop will double for the setup you've shown. Also sit them side by side or one on top of the other so the flow of air will be a)greater and b)not heated by the front one before passing through the second one.
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Anyone get pics of my dyno run?
I'll post it on here when it's done. Best fan setup I've seen is AVA in glasgow. A Huge centrifugal fan hidden outside blasts air at 80mph through a slot about 6 feet by 1 foot. You can adjust the height of the outlet. Honestly you can barely walk in front of it. Must be a realistic simulation of road conditions. Have got a thermocouple to put in my TB soon, so can measure charge temp. Be interesting to compare dyno / road.
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Anyone get pics of my dyno run?
Wait a few weeks until I've finished coding and you can have the same functionallity for free :D
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O2 senders!
It will still apply corrections learned from the bad O2 sensor to the maps though, so best to reset the ECU as well.
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Knock sensor - what else to do while down there?
The red area is where it checks for det.
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New FAQ!!!
Voltage should be same as battery when ignition on, engine off. Resistance ~12ohms I think. Manual is at work so can't check just now!
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New FAQ!!!
Injector resistances at ECU plug and voltages at injector connector are really worth doing too.
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Knock sensor - what else to do while down there?
TBH I'd relocate it unless you need to take the plenum off anyway. It's a lot of work to change something that's not really all that useful anyway.
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And my new MOMO...(I think they're catching)
Niiice, you moved it out of the bed then ;)
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loyal to nissan...?
R390 GT1 :bow:
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EBC Green Stuff pads
EBC reformulated them all a while a go. Greenstuff felt excellent on a car I was in a while ago (Maybe Alex?!). The old ones were rubbish, but these certainly felt better.
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EBC Green Stuff pads
Jay, Might be TT and NA? Cross check the part no with an impreza turbo as I think they're the same.
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HICAS - Remove it?
Yeah, you retain the stock arms with most of them so you adjust in the same way as with the stock setup. The SE one has new rose jointed arms, but both threads are the same directino so you have to unbolt the arms to adjust.
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HICAS - Remove it?
If you find turn in is a little worse, put a bit more toe-in on the rears.
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Going on the dyno at Billing
Chris, The timing has a much bigger effect on det than fuelling, particularly on bigger tubs. The reason for this is that most maps aren't expanded, so you run off the map at a TP value roughly equal to 13psi on stock tubs. This in turn means that the mapping after that point is constant, varying only with revs. It also means that below that value you have to sacrafice some performance to avoid det at higher load values. I'm doing some expanded maps at the mo, but still a little time needed. PM me your email addy and I'll drop you the chip that Vinz has - same tubs so should be pretty good timing wise. Looking at his dyno charts it's still a bit rich but can lean it off a little if you'd like. Call me and we can discuss if you want. Cheers
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15 psi, do you need new injectors or an uprated FPR?
TBH, if it ain't broke don't fix it. You're right that they're maxxed out but if it's not too lean then don't worry. Having said that, there's no downside to it if you intend to upgrade further and it does allow you to up the boost a little.
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I love my Z again
Nice Chris, Did you pin down the problem with idle etc. and have you got the doolz back on?
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Another IT Question
Anyone know of a free (or cheap) Active X control that I can insert into a VB project to represent fuel and timing maps ? Looking for something similar to excel surface plot (3D wire frame type plot). Cheers