300ZX_DRE

it happens whenever you use them, either as a push button clean or if I have knocked the switch to have them on constant, as soon as you turn them to "off" or when they are on there way back down towards the bottom of the window.. they do like an extra cycle then head back up and stay in my view on the windscreen, not always in the same place.. it's like the timing is out..? if that makes sense.. thanks for input so far guys

they still function perfectly fine and in that i mean they dont make annoying noises or noisey motor sounding noises, and it doesnt matter whether im driving or parked up. if i press the button for " a quick squirt" lol.. they do the wiping motion, then it's like hit or miss whether they return to normal or stiay on the windscreen... I don't get it! lol - but it's seriously annoying

When I press the button in to clean my windscreen, after the wipers have done there bit.. they often return to the centre of my windscreen, rather than going back down out the way... it really annoys me and i have to press it in a few times by which stage the windows have smeared or ive used 2 litres of washer fluid in the process.. how can this be fixed?

The TT has 2 small intercoolers as we know.. I have seen people with FMIC's.. Can you run 1 intercooler for 2 turbos?.. I don't quite understand how it works.. I presume the 1 large intercooler is probably better than 2 small ones..? can someone shed some light on this grey area for me please, cheers!

ahh I thought they may be! - many thanks Jeff

8th March "Sunday" @ Sunderland Stadium of Light, startin 2pm till whenever everyone leaves! I've not long had my 300zx and don't know anyone who owns one in the northeast yet - if you live locally and are free this sunday come down & we'll show everyone there what real cars look like! Cheers ! Dre

I'm just thinking, the 300zx auto has a button where you can "hold" or flick it to "power" & when you press this rocker switch, the light appears on the dash telling you which has been pressed.. When you get a manual conversion.. I'm guessing the little panel which has these warning lights isn't really needed?.. what does the manual have in it's place if that is so?.. and I have looked through the auto to manual conversion on the pdf file here, but I was wondering if their is anyone here who has had an auto to manual and realised you don't have all the features you once had i.e. little lights or maybe cruise control?.. Does the manual TT have anything extra to an auto TT? let me know cheers!

sounds like the box is on it's way out mate - I would defo check fluid levels and get it serviced a.s.a.p at a reputable auto gearbox specialist (if there are any!?) other than that, it's only a matter of time and it don't sound good...

cheers for info guys! - one more thing... what are the power ratings for the jdm market since you mentioned usdm & edm!

I have heard the 300zx Manual is 300bhp? - the auto is 280bhp?.. why is this?.. what is so different, apart from the obvious transmissions.. Also, if someone gets a auto-manual conversion.. will it always be slower than the manual one?.. and is their a link on this site showing anything on auto-manual conversions.. Cheers!

I've just had similar faults with mine, and from what I have read, they all describe the same symptoms, where it doesnt matter which gears it is that are affected, eventually, you lose drive and it slips and goes into neutral and then can sometimes jerk back into gear.. but I haven't been able to find out what the root cause is.. it could be the oil pressure is bad due to a clogged filter - the filter could be clogged with dirt?.. or debris from a gearbox which is on it's way out.. when you turn the car off, the pressure drops and you will be able to drive a while until this builds back up. - in the case of mine, i could drive about 200 metres then it was back to just revving again.. eventually with mine, it was under warranty so i send it back to the dealers, they 'fixed' it... I got told they put a new box in apparently... I got it back 10 days ago.. and yesterday the thing just fried on me, could smell burning oil and then some crunching noises and then it just Broken completely.. so needless to say it's going back again... but my advise is to get it looked at staright away from an auto speciailist, get them to clean it out completely!! Sump, filter, torque converter, oil cooler lines EVERYTHING .. I also read somewhere that apparently auto gearbox oil and filters need to be changed Every 12,000 miles on 300zx.. I'm starting to think that the next best option after all this hassle with the auto's.. is to get a auto - manual conversion.. We need to find out the reason why this happens with the autos though.. there is still no definate answer.. -Dre-

I'm going to do that yes, but I still want to know why his even happens in the first place, and what is causing the noise.. Originally the gearbox packed in altogether, and I lost all drive.. it would drive for like 5 mins get 200 metres down the road and then wouldn't work at all.. I gave them it back to fix it, they got it working.. now this noise has started??... what's going on?

I've just been out in the car again, If the car is in D, it makes the whirring grinding noise when pulling away i.e. First gear, then it goes when it goes into 2nd e.t.c If I have the selector in 1 It makes the grinding noise, and then move it into 2 it makes the noise still.. then into D, it goes... The gearbox has just been re-con'd.. i'm wondering if it could be some sort of bearing?.. finally it seems to make the noise a little louder if i'm in 1st and i'm turning left??.. I don't know if this has anything to do with it.. but it just seemed to.. I know my AIV's need drained... any ideas guys?

to be fair. the 300zx doesn't seem to take long to warm up at all, but i'm thinking since you mentioned cold start enrichment, could that cause problems with idling at a later date?.. from what I read about the 300zx's they just constantly need maintenance once you start "messing" with them.. and by messing, i mean just generally driving them lol

so what are the trans coolers like to fit? - are they hard to find?.. what is involved in changing/replacing one?.. I always liked the cooler operating thermostat idea, when my ITR's radiator blew on me when it over-heated one time, I thought I don't ever want any over-heating problems again, EVER! - I bought a mugen lower op.temp thermostat.. and since Nismo is the mugen of Nissan, I figured since it worked a treat for me the last time, might aswell go down that route again lol.

I've been thinking about getting a larger radiator with a lower operating nismo thermostat for a while.. any of you guys done this and is there any problems in doing this?? Also I have a Import Auto, so I have heard I will need to get an auto oil cooler if i change my rad.. why is this?.. how does the normal radiator affect the auto oil cooler?.. and I have also heard that the jap import has a smaller oil cooler than the english one? why is this? finally, is the fan on the ZX a Viscous which works constantly on the radiator, because if I was to get a newer radiator, i.e. a Koyo.. I am not sure if I would be able to keep the stock front fan in place, and might have to buy 2 12" fans to fit to it.. it seems like the stock fan is running constantly.. my integra R when I fitted a new radiator to that I also fitted a new fan and lower thermostat and a lower temp fan switch.. their doesnt seem to be any lower temp fan switches available for Z's?.. Please let me know guys! Cheers!

My Z is an Auto and when I pull away in drive for a split second it makes a noise like a similar noise to what a binding brake disc would make.. like a scraping grinding, it isn't a bad noise but annoying all the same, it isn't affecting the car.. yet.. but when it goes into 2nd the noise goes. I put it into 1st gear to find out for sure it was the 1st gear on the auto box which is making the noise and it deffinately is.. Could someone please give me some advise as to what this noise could be, many thanks!

As of 2 weeks ago, I had a 300zx TT lwb auto imported, it's an auto and as mentioned in my first post, the gearbox went on it. Or is going.. haven't worked it out yet. Luckily my car is still under warranty from the importer and they told me that they would gladly pay to repair it for me, but I had to go to a unipart garage rather than nissan directly. (Any comments on this?) I rang around all the garages where I live, and they were all reluctant to carry out the work on the gearbox for me, they either said "no because it's an auto" or "it's too high-tech and big a job for them".. So my importer is going to take it away and get it fixed. I live in the North East, (South Shields) to be precise & am a member of the Japnortheast and haven't really seen many Z's there. But I was hoping someone on here could tell me where they get there Z's serviced and/or repaired and where is decent/reputable, hopefully in the North east please! Many Thanks. Dre.

Thanks very much for the great advice guys!

When I start the car and then move it into Drive, The car pulls/creeps as normal, then I drive it for about 300 meters or so, then it just revs as if it is in neutral, then I have lost all drive. I tried it in 2nd and 1st and it still would just Rev. Reverse worked a little, then done the same. I turned off the ignition, then waited about 5 minutes, started it up, and it worked again, then got like 200meters or whatever.. and done the same again. I don't think the temperature has anything to do with it, i'm not sure if it's electrical... But any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Any Ideas people? Cheers