greg

sounds sweet :)

its to random buying 2nd hand engines it needs to be stripped tested and rebuilt using new rings,heads checked etc etc its all to easy to just drop an engine in,it rarely works out well,that engine was obviously removed for a reason in the 1st place cant jay rebuild an engine using both the donor engine and your 2nd hand unit!

a/c pump generally sounds like a grating bearing noise

good luck harve,i met you a couple of years ago at jae,top bloke,still pop on from time to time :duffer:

its one of those 6 of one half a dozen of the other,as said if you need to remove the plenum in the future its alot easier to weld up the EGR and blank of the feeds,and to make room for fiddly jobs at the back of the engine to the turbo feeds etc down side in some circumstances is it can cause small idle problems,which go unnoticed,if you have an aftermarket exhaust systym & decat then you may aswell remove the EGR do a water bypass aswell saves any water leaks under the plenum to be bypassed not sure what you mean by get the car chipped after removal,yes if you have a boost increase,then change the chip to aalter the fueling etc! making it less unlikely to get detonation

any rwd drive needs atention in the wet,don't matter what tyres you have you still have to be aware :) get it sideways on the straights instead!

happy birthday si mate :duffer:

sorry to hear that dave,just had a similar thing happen to a z owner,when it arrived at ztech on inspection the tension rod had snapped,shock damaged and anti roll bar out of shape,hope it isent to bad,could of been worse anyhow

they dont do a haynes but you can get the online cd usualy sold on ebay/or theres an online manual online you can get the huge manual from the states as i have one!around £70

as taff says you can get the z31 boss from halfords but you will loose hicas

if its very light then id imagine there is still air in the systym you sometimes need to bleed it several times before all the air is removed properly

could be the fan clutch yes,if your sure you have checked belt tension correctly then try a viscous clutch :duffer:

mike at mjp in the traders section

the title should be who hasnt has goose honk :wack:

i spose a similar senario would be you pay a garage to fit a set of 360thrust bearing turbos and you get at best a 2nd hand set that leak oil :smash:

im not the only one who thinks that then :duffer:

lots of hard work,looks likes its paying of :duffer: get some underseal spray bud :wack: will make that blingy zorst look even shinier :cool:

no hes on about johns being the yellow one,and yes dipone it was bud :p tidy car your one mate,hope shes running well for you :)

if he had a blowout then its his own fault :wack: ****y killjoy copper more like :xxx: good luck bud,hope it gets resolved without a ban

hi chirs the standard tension rods are not riveted on! they are bolted on,if you go for rose jointed you eliminate the need for a re-bush of the tension rods,as this is a 1piece part! greg

i had the same controller,IIRC leave gain as it is,infact im not sure it made any differance with the blitz controller,boost i use to set to around 55 which made around 1bar,then just ajust until you find the boost level you want +- the blitz one is the easiest controller to use compared to most of the others,if i had it infront of me id say do this do that etc,so its off the top of my head :p

1 for the front crank seal,once you remove the crank pulley and the cambelt remove crank sprocket and its behind there,sometimes the sprocket don't come off easily :rolleyes: soak in wd-40 prior to removal 4cam seals remove all 4 sprockets at the top and there behind there that link covers removal of all the sprockets and fitting bud :cool: greg

sorry to hear that steve,if you need to re-order :p http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/300ZX-KYB-AGX-Adjustable-Shocks_W0QQitemZ8048692965QQcategoryZ40192QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Make sure you have all the tools needed for the job,handy tool is to use a allen key bit that will fit to a ratchet 3/8" drive so you can undo the allen key bolts on the front water pipes,makes life easier,just make sure you use the correct size,if you dont have an air tool to undo the crank pulley wheel you may struggle,if you have manual transmission place car in 5th gear then use a big breaker bar and undo bolt they are torqued to over 200lb so you will need some might,if you have auto you need to wrap an old ancillary belt around the water pump and double over on to the crank pulley wheel,this then strangles the crank pulley enabling you to place pressure on it without it turning,old fashioned way is to remove the starter motor and place a prybar in the flywheel/ringgear whilst someone apply pressure to the 27mm bolt,to much hassle :rolleyes: !just take your time and follow the guide below,also use a light or torch as there are several hidden bolts around the front covers use a 1/4" ratchet with small extension to reach the awkward ones. guide for 60k service http://www.ttzd.com/tech/60ktech.html greg