Everything posted by greg
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FAO - Old Zed
8000k is to blue between 5-6000k is ideal and produces a much whiter light but all the same a great improvement :)
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Sump removal
no you dont need engine out,you do if your removing rods&pistons,but crank and bearings can be done in situ ;)
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I've had 'The call'
good luck mate :)
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Sump removal
engine needs to be held up via crane,steering uj slackened,crossmember dropped,oil and filter drained,oil feeds and turbo return feeds disconected,sump removed, connecting rod caps,crank main beam,oil strainer and crank itself,also the front of the engine needs to be stripped to replace oil pump inc timing belt&tensioner and sprocket, oil pump cannot be removed without sump removal&oil strainer! id recomend a service manual for vital specific torque settings ;) pic of bottom end for you
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so whats going on with
ok well if the injector insulator is cracked,it will cause a cylinder to drop,aswell as unburnt fuel entering the exhaust,so this should be looked in to aswell just fixed a customers car with this exact problem! oh and damaged o-ring/s especially the lower o-ring/s can cause fuel leaks leading to similar symtoms as mentioned above ;)
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Heating C/C
That will definatly effect your heating,and it is probably causing an airlock-preventing water to enter the matrix properly :)
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Is the largest UK Z meet?
mac i take it shunter and big kim wont be in your car :shock: targas off PMSL
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so whats going on with
another idea,is a leaking injector insulator or o-ring,but then you would normally have a strong smell of fuel and unburnt fuel entering the zorst/s
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More help needed
so you have a boost controller fitted,so the solenoids have been disconected,and your getting full boost not safety? id get a consult as this could be an old code,from so many starts ago,and no its not engine out you can bypass the plug,only downside is you cant hear det,but its a 2min fix-do a search to replace the loom then its a fair job,but not engine out ;)
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so whats going on with
yep dont need a lot mate
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Help!!
did you check the autobox levels whilst car was running and up to temp? check TPS voltage but if it was fine before i doubt it will be out
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Mot
i didnt think they had any data for the 300zx before 96 so emissions shouldnt be a problem!
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Heating C/C
that sounds like the spring that controls water flow,which is attached to the matrix,what tends to happen is when the matrix has been replaced-if it has been replaced,is the small control arm which passes through a butterfly type flap has been bent,and when the controls ask for heat the spring cannot open the flap to its most open point,so if you hit a corner flatout or hit a bump it then opens the flow to full greg was series 2 jap spec :tongue: with nice fany controls :tongue:
- ummm....
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Heating C/C
as mark says it could be to do with the ducting! could be a slight airlock causing very little water to enter the matrix,so try your rad flush and replace coolant,and make sure the car is up to temp,and heat is entering the cabin area also the series 1 heater controls are pants,you want heat out of the front vents but unlike the series 2 controls where you can control where the heat is,it normally has a mind of its own,and comes out from the demister only
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Steering
there not cheap but not worth buying 2nd hand either new is around £110 and as said simple enough to fit spray some wd40 or lube all over the joint and spline before you remove and refit makes life alot easier
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its yampiedogs birthday 90 today LOL
happy birthday :cool:
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the dreaded idle problem
1000 rpm isn't that far out of spec between 7-900 is fine! so unless it really bothers you,then you could so a general cleanup of throttle bodies,and general engine connections/earth etc,after cleaning the throttle bodies,your idle may be slightly higher due to the ecu learning the new properties so reset ecu afterwards or ajust the idle via the ajustment screw on the side of the IAA do a search for base idle ajustment greg
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so whats going on with
yep as lymon says compression check that cylinder if you have replaced ptu,checked/changed plugs/coilpacks and injector plugs,then compression test is the next step,if compression is within spec,check all the above again
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Car broke down AGAIN
check the CAS plug,if it works loose the car will just stop,normally missing the wire clip to hold it in place,either get a new wire clip or pit a small spot of sealant on the plug-if thats what the problem is greg
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Happy Birthday Bigmincey
happy birthday mate ;)
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NZR. Trying to quit
im quiting today :hyper: 20aday for 10years no more after i smoked about 500 fags last night whilst out on the razzle,well come on it goes with beer like salt&pepper :D
- God what a day!
- o2 Sensor Probs
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Stuck halfway through HICAS arms - help please
as said above,lock one off whilst turning the other