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greg

Dormant Member
  • Joined

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  • Country

    Ukraine

Everything posted by greg

  1. dont forget the sugar,gaz me ol fruit :D
  2. i have a cobra manual if you need to borrow it dave
  3. the bearings can be done in situ on the vg30de
  4. as said 2 poster is more conveniant and will give acsess to almost every area,only downside is i never feel safe under one,and iv seen a supra collapse and fall off one so prefer 4 poster :wack: ,besides you can get the jack that slides along and can lift front and rear off the ground independantly on a 4poster
  5. :D its always a pleasure to work on clean tidy cars mate :cool:
  6. doesnt matter how low mileage is-if you believe the mileage :rolleyes: and it only take the oil to get low and bye bye bearings
  7. yours will pass mate,mint car is that
  8. sounded like my saab 93 turbo going bang down the m4 at @100mph bye bye crank&rods and bearings :wack:
  9. you need to just play around,i had my kybs on 2 at the front and 4 on the rear its a case of trial and error,until you find the setting that suits your driving style and roads
  10. greg replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - Non 300ZX
    nice one though mate,not the easiest thing to do,especially removing the stick,and getting the 12mm bolt that sits stupidly underneath :rolleyes:
  11. happy birthday all :duffer:
  12. greg replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - Non 300ZX
    nice one mate takes 2 mins with the prop and exhaust out :tongue:
  13. LMAO i was sweating buckets with the roof off,so dont no what it was like with the indoor BBQ slicktop :tongue:
  14. pic is showing LHD car but its by the battery just behind balance bar its part of the IAA unit green dot is screw
  15. me kids and misses had pancakes with golden syrup and clotted cream ice cream :cool: very nice
  16. so your at the lights in your 406 pretend ferrari and a bmw drives off and makes you look a coont :smash:
  17. cant find one,but its simple enoughthey are situated behind the colipacks you will see the leads going to them,undo wire clip,dont break plug connector and clean them,back 2 are fiddly to get to then refit placing the wire clips back on and secure properly heres a link to some helpful hesitation tips http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/hesitation/hesitation.html
  18. easy test pull each coilpack plug out 1 by 1 with car running,when you pull the plug out you should hear the car hesitate as if its going to stall,if it doesent then you can safely say that cylinder isent fireing correctly when you find the cylinder that is down,use a spare coilpack and sparkplug fit conector on that cylinder plug and earth it to engine get someone to turn car over and check for spark,if your getting spark then you can rule out the connector,to save yourself time remove the coilpack and replace with the known working one check spark plug aswell now clean the injector harness plug and injector connector with electrical cleaner with a wire brush until both terminals are clean and refit using the wire clip to hold it in place making sure its connected properly! retest 90% of the time its dirty injector plug/s that cause problems now retest and check cylinder is fireing using the 1st point! if not its either going to be to replace injector plug and harness on that cylinder or at worse leaking injector o-ring or injector insulator,which is plenum removal,but as said likely to be the above,besides commonly you would have strong fuel smell where the injector is leaking,and smoke from the exhaust of unburnt fuel remember dont fix what aint broke,if this is a very rare occurance then just do a general cleanup of the injectors as they go corroded and dirty over time,and dont work correctly HTH greg
  19. you just replace the injectors and o-rings themselfs and fit a chip suited for the injectors
  20. could be down on a cylinder hence the rumbling/hesitation
  21. no modification is need for the 16g IIRC to the engine bay or wing,although 18g wil do as mac1 and kirbz etc will tell you
  22. as said if you cant get the corect reading via cas,then the cambelt needs to be checked
  23. code 54 is fine,this is because yours use to be an auto,know its a manual,it is showing the error,dont worry as for your base timing at 25degrees if its not ajustable via the Cas then id presume the timing belt is out by a tooth or 2,and this is why your performance is poor,with that far advance id get that sorted asap-to avoid any damage!looking at your car its up to temp @84degrees so you can safely say that is the correct reading for the timing,get some one near you to set up your timing to the correct figure of 15degrees
  24. not a nice name to call your z :tongue:

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