greg

thats what the hose that comes with the kit goes as you said you don't get the hose at the front on the fuel rail from smithy,its normally a case of using a long thing scredriver and retighten,or replace with standard fuel hose,bling not essential as its out of view,hence why smithy do't supply id imagine greg

Lmao

well i never knew that PMSL

on a consult it will tell you how many starts ago the error came in to effect could of been 150starts ago,now if you came to z-tech today we could of checked/cleared the errors :tongue: :)

could be the espagnolete seized,this may happen if the window hasnt opened for along time,or a cam has bent due to the window being forced

there is a small bolt that sits in other part of the handle you may be able to shim between the handle and fixing point to press the bolt back in? undo other bolt and shake handle it may break,but it may also damage the espagnolette spindle

if you go to a locksmith,they will give you a bunch of tryout keys for a deposit,all window keys are of the shelf and if they have a decent bunch one will fit,take a pic of the keyway and take it in they will know which key if there competent,if you have major probs give me a ring as i have every key for windows,i was a locksmith for 6years :) for postage costs i could help you,pic would be useful when window is in locked position,it covers one of the bolts as you have figured out. greg

LMFAO

m4 and m5 last 2days i have been in 2 3hour traffic jams,fookin winds me up when they decide to close a lane on a busy friday afternoon,and yet no fooker working :mad:

knightrider :D just need the flashy red light on the front :wack:

i wouldnt go as far to say bmw autoboxes are as bad as nissan,i know a few bmw 5series with 200k + on the clock and the autobox still works ok,i doubt a 300 auto could do that

****all by the looks of it :wack:

sounds like the cas,but could also be the fuel pump ECU which is located behind the passenger seat,under the rear qtr will the car go above 3k rpm?

yep top stuff :)

the koyo is more than enough,looks a nice rad though :D

LOL have done since i was little,which was't to long ago :D also my uncle played for crystal palace and for arsenal for a short period :cool:

could be just the hose split,or at worst the tank,cheap enought to replace 2nd hand though

cool,i watched arsenal vs chelsea about 10year ago,we beat them 3-1,lets hope with the form we have in the champons league-we can carry it on next year and do the same against chelsea,these younger players are getting more impressive the more they play,lets just hope henry stays as he is mr ARSENAL :duffer:

a woman with the same taste in football :duffer: roll on the second leg :D

happy birthday bud

it will be one of the tee's that go under the plenum to turbos i would imagine

IIRC 8 being the firmist

jack up car,support on axle stands remove undertray if its there air con ajustment-slacken 14mm nut on front of pulley wheel,then on the bottom of the pulley there is a 12mm ajuster bolt,tighten accordingly,then retighten front 14mm pulley bolt,be careful not to round this nut off,use a good quality hardened or 12point socket! alternator-slacken 12mm nut on rear of tensioner bracket then on the left there is the 12mm ajuster bolt tighten accordingly,then retighten 12mm nut on rear,you may need to loosen the 17mm alternator bolt top of alternator,is a pain to reach with rad in,but can be done power steering-reach up from underneath and slacken 12mm nut on front of tensioner,then to the left tighten the 12mm ajuster bolt then retighten front 12mm nut,job done most common belt to squal is the alternator,they will be tight enough when all the freeplay is taken up and you can only just turn belt slightly by hand to make life easier ratchet spanners make tight jobs 10times easier and you will find them a godsend around the front of the engine,all the above are easier with radiator out greg

hi les front is simple use the small scredriver and ajust on the top by pushing down on the screw and turning to the number required 2 is ideal rear is simple,you may need to jack up the rear on the diff slightly,then go under and you will see a dial again it will have an arrow with 0-8,it will be set on 4 as standard which is medium-firm,turn dial by hand to ajust to required number 2 on the front and 4 on the rear is ideal,if you want it that bit firmer,then trail and error until you find the setting you prefer! greg

most common leak is the passenger side turbo feed,runs directly at 45degrees side of the bellhousing