greg

could be the master cylinder,check fluid level and check for leaks around the pot,if that checks out,bleed the brakes with some fresh fluid,also check the the brake servo and related hoses for splits/cracks

pleased for ya bud :)

ditto

aston martin vantage or modena 360 probably both

you got the 12mm nut on the front,14mm bolt that passes through pump,and you have 12mm tensioner bolt that passes through the 12mm nut on the front,which gives you ajustment,pic shows :)

:rofl: ,only good thing about having leather seats-is you can wipe fanny batter and jizzum of the seats

you have the 14mm bolt that holds the pump in place loosen slightyl loosen 12mm locking nut,then loosen the bolt that passes through tensioner. place pry bar inbetween pump and bracket and move accordingly,pushing down on pump will bring it in closer if belt is still not going on full,use a big bar with 27mm socket on place belt half on and turn crank pulley untill it pulls on straight,then repeat in reverse

cam lobes :xxx: wtf they are on i do not know,hope you get it sorted mate,im sure jeff will have an better idea than these clowns who have had your car for so long :rolleyes:

£2500 exhaust fook me the car would be lucky to make that :rofl:

no that wont effect it,there are ground points at the rear of the plenum,which are for the ptu if they are loose or corroded it may damage the series 1 ptu due to having a poor connection i take it you have pulled each coil pack in turn to find out which cylinder is not fireing correctly?

as legrath says really,congrats dude :)

its not likely to be a cas,id check the injector connections and clean,check the 2 small 10mm bolts that ground the PTU back of engine left and right,if there not secured properly it will more than likely kill the ptu instantly,a faulty cas is unlikely,infact its just as likely as a cracked injector insulator,try a s2 ptu and injector connections,then go from there,also make sure the wire clips are used on the injector plugs to give them a secure grip on the injectors

looks nice,and iv always prefered 5spoke,but there looking good :)

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

dont condem starter,common problem is the bolts work loose in the bellhousing and the starter motor,works out slighty squwiff to the ringgear,if its bolted on fine,then a good replacement starter motor should do the trick ask ricerocket or andy z in the traders section,should only cost £40-£50 second hand :)

be nice to see when its all done john :)

oil in the water or water in the oil is not always the case,a definiative test would be to use a HG test kit,it involves using a kit that shows up if there is conbustable gases in the cooloing systym ;) secondly the car may start and run fine,it may also suffer with a hunting idle,it may also drink alot of coolant,it may also cause more dmage if you dont get it checked properly,so even if the car runs,it may still have a problem,normally the AA do a HG test?

im off to dublin end of april for a mates stag do :hurl: weekend of madness hopefully :smash:

good luck bud

new discs needed by the sounds of it

i bought my 300 for 4500 spent 15k between me and ryan it sold for £6500 so there you go

if your concered about the smoke get it over,for a checkover ;)

also if to much oil is added can cause a build up of pressure,and yes,a clogged pcv hose/valve can&will blow seals/dipstick due to excess crankcase pressure

if your rear main seal is leaking,it will continue to leak regardless if you replace the pcv valve systym,once the seal has perished thats it,all you can do is keep an eye on it,if it get worse then the seal will need to be replaced if you have smoke and you seem to think its pcv related,then replace all 5hoses and 2 valves,then give it a couple of hundred miles for any oil to clear the intake,and see if the smoke goes,if its still present then you need to be looking at things like your 15year old turbos :smash:

the azev a rims set it off lovely :p did it use to be a volvo by any chance :rofl: