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I recently swapped the engine on my Dec 1994 MK 4 TT Auto and the donor engine from a early 1994 MK3 TT Manual. Can anyone explain what you believe are the differences on the fuel systems?The garage changed the turbos over, and I believe they had to do something with the fuel system at the last minute due to incompatible connections? The car is going back tomorrow for them to trace the petrol smell on acceleration, so anything you could tell me would be really helpful as another forum member has suggested so differences in fuel system compatibility

Go here it will tell you all you need to know http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_garage/WheelSearch.jsp?autoMake=Nissan&autoModel=300ZX+Turbo&autoYear=1994&autoModClar=

Sure is a GZ32 got it mixed up with the yellow SWB in the same auction...

Believe me I know everything about importing from Japan, although I am not in the motor trade, I have imported around 100 cars over the years, all direct from aution, not through dealers and with service history. Cars that have unconfirmed or dodge mileage normally have the mileage followed by a * but many UK retailers forget to mention that when they resell. There are over 100 Z32's sold each week in Japanese auctions, but this one caught my eye as it has exeptionally low mileage and being a 1996 only requires rear fog, speedo chip, then MOT. Shipping is around £680, so normally cheaper to buy then UK and no rust and low mileage. Just never noticed that type of bumper on one before

Do you know of any 1996 SWB cars in the UK that only have 21,000 miles, do you? Obviously I was thinking of bidding on it in the auction in Tokyo on Wednesday, but had not seen that particular bumper before, thats all......

This is currently in an auction in Japan so won't be from Z Centre! I assume whatever it is, it will be an original, and not a copy.....

Are they plastic or fibreglass?

Just been looking at this 1996 car being auctioned in Japan this week, only done 21,000 miles. I was not sure what the bumper is. Anyone know?

I have a Turbo Timer complete with ALL wiring. Just plug it in and your away! Removed from a 1994 LWB TT Manual. It is the concealed type. You set the two different times, long and short on the unit. This is then fixed behind the dash. The neat thing is there is a switch that goes in the dash that you then simply switch for short or long turbo timer running. £45, Pics below

I dont get it, surely they are the same spec as the standard Rad?

I did'nt but the mechanic may have done. Just not sure if I am imagining it or if it is now hot and it was not before. Will it be obvious if its not there when I put it on the ramp? What colour is it, Aluminium?

Just swapped my engine and I am noticing everything now. I noticed the plastic trim around the Auto Shift, where the power/hold etc is situated gets quite hot. Not that hot you cannot touch it but I would guess about 75 to 80 degrees. This may have always been the case but do not recall it prior to the engine change. Basically just want to know if others also find theirs is the same so I dont have to worry about it. Thanks! :nana2:

I have been a HR Manager for the last 20 years.... First and foremost you need to be able to sell and have excellent communication skills, you would need to be knowledgeable about the cars in general terms, but not be overly enthusiastic about a particular car you happen to like. They will want you to sell any car. So an interest and appreciation of cars I think is fine, but you don’t want to come over as an anorak! Thats my view of it anyway..........

At an average of 2 minutes per post, thats 10 full days you have spent posting! :smash: Come on give it a rest :dance:

I have a Brake master Cylinder in excellent condition from a MK3 1994 TT with 55,000km. £55 + pp see below (sorry about quality just taken with phone!)

Is it these?????? Taken from 1994 55000km TT. Totally rust free

This is the underside of a 1994 TT that I have just stripped. It was only in the UK from Japan for 4 weeks. Not a spot of rust..... Subframe etc totally rust free too. And no I did not strip everything... left the brake pipes on :dance:

http://www.mytravel.co.uk click on late deals

Cannot see my name on the list??

Pull of the plasic centre, undo the centre bolt but leave it on a couple of turns. Then pull like hell. it will come off all of a sudden, hence leaving on the nut, otherwise steering wheel in the face! Thers the horn cable etc then. Make sure steering is dead straight before removing so when you put new one on its straight!

Take out 2 bolts to remove caliper, make sure handbrake is off. there is nothing holding the disc on then.........

Need to get 4 alloys and tyres from Cirencester to Cheshire and 4 discs/calipers/backing plates from Cheshire to Kent. Have been doing searches including ebay couriers. Anyone know who is cheapest?

Spent last week totally dismantling a 1994 LWB TT that had only been in the UK for 6 weeks. By comparison the whole of the subframe etc is just original black paint, not rust at all. All bolts came undone by hand after one full turn of the spanner. Must be a bit of a nightmare if its rusted up!

Not forgetting Ford Probe!

I think it should be pronounced TIRING as these Tein threads are very Laborious Protracted and Arduous "definitions" :headvswal