turbocraigy

Top job! Full credit to you for having a go, especially on your own!

Cheers mate...:duffer: If you could email me at gcknowles@btinternet.com, I'll send you my address. Much appreciated!

Less you do, more you get these days!...

Its no wonder our Zeds are worthless these days....

Much appreciated that Fella. Might have too do this myself. Where did you get the self cutting bolt from?? Cheers...

Yes mate, I bought them from there over 2 years ago. Rang them and no help at all really.

Yes, thought if that. Would rather have a specific part though.

Hi Guys, looking to refurb my cheapish 1 piece alloys, they have like 20 chrome faced alloy screw heads all the way round the rim. My refurber said they were just plastic push in decorative types and they have to be removed to do the job and that new ones will be req'd.... Does anyone know where to get alloy spares like this? The wheels are made by ACE (Ace 184's) Cheers...

Now that is real, usable strength. Wow!

Oops! Can't edit my last post, must point out last part of post is NOT cut+paste quotation, but my opinion, forgot the quotation marks....

Sorry, this is a cut+paste answer from Jimmer on another thread.... Under cold start conditions fuelling is increased.As the car is only idling it cant burn the rich mixture fully so the bores get washed by fuel.Bore washing is when the oil on the bores which is whipped up by the crank gets washed away causing wear and glazing.This applies to all petrol vehicles turbo or non turbo.If you read any owners manual it will state the vehicle should be driven straight away and brought up to temperature gently. Deffo NOT a myth, but of course some people do this for years without issues. I have a brand new round around car with 5yrs warranty so don't care - I let it warm up. My 18yr 67000mile 300zx is not under warranty, costs more to fix & as my pride n joy car won't doing anything like this that might cause premature problems.

Can you not see any signs of fluid on the floor under the car? If the level as gone down it must have gone somewhere. Get someone to swing the steering lock 2 lock and hold on full lock for a few seconds each time whilst you have a good look around under the bonnet and under the car. When I had a leak, it was from the main high pressure hose (common problem), but I could only see the leak when my dad was holding the steering firm on full lock. It might be that your car is only leaking when on the move. Normally if enough fluid has escaped and is hanging around the engine bay you can smell it....very sweet.

When we talk about chipping the ECU, the adjustments are to the fuel and timing maps. This does NOT increase boost, but just prepares the car for the extra boost to keep the engine safe (stops it running lean). The boost is increased by the fitment of boost jets (cheap but crude) or boost controller (expensive,but better). Chipping cannot make the car ignore issues and would be silly to do so anyway. The engine must be running spot on before increasing boost. The 300zx engine is a good unit, but must be treated with respect or it will cost you dear. It might be that your engine is actually running OK and that we are suspecting you have a problem when you don't. But based on your opening thread it sounds like you do. Ideally you need to take the car to Zedworld or another quality 300zx specialist to check the car over & tell you the score. Where abouts are you?

3 years is plenty of time for a problem to arise, so forget the dyno print. So you've done an ECU check and got a code 55 (no fault detected)??? Do a search of safety boost. AFAIK safety boost is caused by either a fault in the det.sensor circuit (code 34) OR in the temperature sensor circuit (code 13)

I agree here too. Would think there is no such as a mint ZED if driven as a daily driver and in the snow as well. And being a UK car makes rust and rot far more likely. The mint ones will be weekend toys that are garaged, pampered and only driven in 99% good/fair weather with a shed load of receipts and history. Also think you should get a import. I've got one and I can honestly say there isn't a hint of rust anyway - body or chassis. It is pampered though! I bet both those UK cars have more rust than the pictures show.

The red ebay car does look very good. But it does have some rust. Look at the rear sill picture. This would need to be jumped on asap and closely inspected to make sure its not proper rot.

BTW, my car is running about 15psi with supporting mods and the power is REALLY strong all the way to the limiter from about 3k. Your power drop at 5k is again probably the retarded timing from the safety boost mode.

No, it doesn't sound right. Sounds like your in safety boost. Safety boost is about 7psi, but the ECU also retards timing to make it safer and noticably reduces power. Standard boost is around 9psi, doesn't sound like a lot more, but remember the timing is also more advanced and the car has more go.... You could increase boost to 15psi once you've sorted your current issue/s out and are sure the engine is in good shape. You will also need the ECU chipping to provide more fuel for the extra boost. At 15psi these cars fly. Your dyno result of 273 is a bit low, but if your in safety mode then it will be. Use the search function and read into safety boost, causes, fixes etc.... Good luck.

You can retro fit a dimmer unit across the light fitting.

I would say give it a try. If you can't feel the scratch it obviously not deep. Pop it back together with new seals and see what happens. Have some one pump the pedal with the engine running and check for fluid leaks - I'd be very suprised if it did. When I refurbed my calipers, the pistons weren't entirely perfect and I've had no problems.

Funny that there is some variations to that as well. My car is a 1993 import, it has pillar mounted belts, no AIV system, irons calipers etc, but no airbag:(

But also remember there will be quite a few imports that have been in this country a few years now, but will never have seen a UK salty road or a rainy day (like mine) cos they have been imported to restore and cherish, only driven as hobbies not daily drivers and are better weather protected then when they were new. These are the cars to buy. A car like Funkysi's for example, I believe is a 1991 car, so one of the early ones. It has been in the country for a few years now, but is one of the best examples around, better than many (probably most!) newer 300zx and this is all down the its owner and how its used.

I'd just like to add the age of these cars is not over relevant....condition is everything. There might be a really excellent 1990 car and a really shabby 1998 car. With cars of this nature the age is far less important.

^^^^As above! Don't waste your money. Back to basics with some simple dumbells, barbell and body weight exercises are all thats needed. In my line of work, I see so many of these home gyms stuck in garages and lofts collecting dust. For most (not all) they are a waste of money, used for a very short period and then never again.

No way! Looks real sweet as it is.