Tudor...

arrr crumbs, it's dot co dot uk :)

Email me matey, dirtytudor (at) hotmail dot com

Have you checked the resistance on the coilpacks too?

Have to agree, well worth you making a quick boost leak tester, with a tire valve in a jar lid or something that fits into the intake where the MAF joins, bung it in, tighten the jubilee clip jobby, pump some air in and listen for leaks, think there's summet in the FAQ section on it. Just another thing to completely eliminate mate.

Yes, you can fit an auto ECU to a manual, but not a manual to auto, the auto ECU has features for the auto box, I'm pretty sure the actual gubbins is the same, just the map/software is different, so you could put an auto chip into a manual ECU.

You will also probably want to replace your brake lines too, only really accessible with the subframe removed, very common for them to corrode and become an issue at MOT time.

:lol:

I think that was the gasket from the downpipes to the cats/de-cats iirc mate, still a good tip tho.

My revs are out with consult by about 200 rpm, I doubt many of our tachos are showing the correct rpm, easy to calibrate though, I presume, with the pots on the PCB.

if you go to a motor factors, the only thing they really stock for the zed is a fuel filter, and there are 2 different ones listed, and one is too big....

To be expected really, pretty common, it's the VTC springs inside the 2 sprockets, they weaken over time and create that rattle. New ones are pretty cheap, and a pretty easy job to change.

Hi Steve, and welcome to the club! The red key is used as a 'Valet key', it wont work on the glove box, so you can put your valuables in there when you take it to a garage etc. you give them the red key so they can use the car but cannot get into the glove box, the black key should do everything, do the keys look the same along the edge? (the body of the keys are different, the red key does not have a second groove in it, required to open the glove box). Hope that is of some help mate, dunno about your alarm. Titanium keys are rare-ish, and they didn't come with every car, but you can buy titanium blank replicas...

The majority of the time, if the pedal adjustment seems to alter, it's the clutch wearing/worn.

Scrap that, different package, deffo an 'SKP' I'm after....

Here you go mate, seems so yeah, doesn't appear to be any differences between 'SKP' and 'SKB' prefixes either? - - - Updated - - - Wow that's massive, haha.

Long shot, but there's such an eclectic mix of talented and helpful folk on here, might as well ask :) I'm after an obsolete voltage regulator, number is : SKP06N60, also a data sheet here : http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/infineon/1-skb06n60.pdf I'm after either the original, or an equivalent, I can buy one, but I'm looking at 20 - 25 quid for a little voltage reg, and I'm fixing something for a mate, anyone any ideas? Cheers, Tudor.

Petrol or diesel mate?

I need one of those in my life.

I just ejaculated.

I just ejaculated.

The elbows gave mine a slight 'rasp', which I like. Got five bolt turbos now, so different downpipes, so will have the japspeed ones left over, no-one will want them as you can't buy the de-cats seperate, so I might make them into a couple of screamer pipes for a laugh :)

This might help mate : http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?126850-Rattling-window

it'll be that clip, both of mine need doing too. Sounds like it's made from bean cans if you shut the door with the window down.

You will probably find, that there is a plastic clip, part of the the mechanism (holds the glass to the runner), and it is broke, very common. There are threads about it, cheap fix but very fiddly (apparently). Does you window rattle if driving with it half down, and when you shut the door with the window down?

Cheers guys :-)