markzx

Been talking to them today and thinking of buying one to build. got to get Garage cleared and looking at the XRT4 with the Audi TT engine it's 100kg heavier, but it is up to 110 bhp more powerful and easier to sorse the engine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QE2EHo30jCE

It's a C70 T5 gt which is the same as the T5R and came 260 standard. The Rica chip and no other mods pops this model up to 320 bhp, because mine is the ME7 engine. Same engine used in the S60R which is sold as 300BHP standard. Not wise to try nail it out of corners as it spins the wheels and keeps going strait, but 70 to 160 it'll kill most things including a standard ZTT.

Thats where you keep your coke. I'll have 2 raps please :slap: :rofl: Thing is Ian some cars are built for show and some to be used. You carn't have both with something having to give.

You bloody picky I've check the BHP and it is a 14 ltr Scania straight 6 turbo engine and it produces 310 bhp so I've amended the figures.

Stillen side skirts are my favourites don't know why I ever put the Wings Weat ones on. By the way previous post should have said Stillen not still :headvswal

That makes my car a series III without the series III spoiler and with the series IV brakes. It's not like that now as I've vandalised it to suit me, but when i bought it it was still standard. All in all it is proberbly right as the car was first registered new in November 94 and acording to the Chassis number Nissan say it should have the new type injectors but it never has had. Definately a cusp car.

All sound like the slippery slope into body kit heaven. Wide arches and curely werly Veilside side skirts next :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: IMO the Still extension is the best.

I'd have said not as aestheticly pleasing :slap: :rofl: :rofl:

Luke is proberbly best but, if Luke is out of stock and your in a hurry I have a custom made one which is the same volume as the Koyo and a little lighter. I was saving it for my project car, but it's a long way off. So You could have it for £200 + P&P It's this one and i'll throw in a Genuine Nismo Rad cap. The down side is it has a few small dents in the top rail where I knelt on it when changing my heater matrix. As you can see they arn't major but you'd need a Koyo rad bracket like Bazza's if you want a show enging bay, but if it's for performance then this is a better bet than the Koyo.

Silver or painted centres and polished rims, but not Black or they just look like the cheep rims you by from Al Frauds. Bronze. gold or Light anthracite with polish rims, but not black please.

:hyper: Well I will have my Volvo bact tomorrow So thats 320bhp The Zed is around 500bhp The pickup is I80bhp The JCB is 310bhp + I have a 4.5 hp stimmer a 5.5 hp lawn mower a 13.5 hp lawn mower and 2 horses = 2hp None on bricks and all working, so thats a total of 1,333.5 bhp :hyper: :hyper: :rofl: :rofl:

Yep he said the lawn mower had broke :slap: No that was in Brugge on the Nurburg run.

Mich is a great guy and he'll ship all your purchases ASAP and if you ask they always cost £100 nug nug wink wink.

Can you tell which is Chris C and which is the Sloth. Here's a clue the sloth moves faster and eats leaves rather than smokes them. :rofl:

Don't go there with petrol. I'm having to used it as my main car at the moment and I'm using £140 in petrol a week. and been doing so for the last 8 weeks. Normally about £55 which is still £2,860 a year. I remember when I first bought the car in 1999 it cost about £35 to £38 to fill up. Now it's almost £60.

Is that so you can park your bike :rofl: But it stops the engine from burning and allows you to run much higher temps, especially if Kylie's buttocks are naked. It must be the way you talk to it because it's not sympathetic to me.

It all depends on the engine spec you have really and whether or not you doing track days or serious hard driving. If your running higher than standard boost I'd say a 10 50 fully synthetic or rack day car I'd go for 10 60 or 15 60 so that when you get some serious heat into the oil it isn't that thin it p1sses out through your PCV's and still has some Viscosity.

Plenty of good advice there and I'd also suggest fitting some pads like Ferodo DS3000's on the front to prevent brake fade and improve your braking once they've reached temp. I'd practice your braking technique. You should brake really hard as soon as you come in line with the markers and then back off the brakes before turning in. This allows the springs to decompress and the car to settle. If you don't then the springs are trying to extend as the corner inertia is trying to compress the them on the outside of the turn. This makes the damping and spring fight and unsettles the car. + The springs in the inside of the turn are decompressing so give the inertia and extra boost and try to through you out of the turn. Hence where most body roll and understeer comes from. With the car settled you can hurl the car into the bend much faster. Stay off the throttle and only feed the throttle in once you've past the apex of the corner. This keeps everything neat, tidy and flatter which will allow you to go round bends faster than you presently think your car is capable of. Most important thing though is have fun.

This keeps the engine nice and smooth.

Glad to hear you've pushed on to the next stage. I was thinking you'd decided you'd got enough go to scare yourself. Obviously you've got used to that now and are after the next fix. Good luck Ian and keep us posted.

Congratulations and best wishes to Mrs Peach. Are you sure that the baby is safe with that wierdo that holding her so you could take the picture :slap: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: You'll soon realise what a precious commodity sleep is, but its all worth it in the end.

It was done I'm sure to get a strong reaction and if that is true then surely it has done exactly what it was ment to. Therefore not dumb, but rather clever. Still looks like a fairground ride though.

Was thinking of buy one of these in kit form http://www.radicalextremesportscars.com/range/sr4/sr4.php

If your including repairs, sevicing and purchase then it must be somewhere close to £45K over 8 years. Remember in 1999 I bought a low mileage car that was 4years and 5 months old. They were still quite rare as there was hardly any imports around and they were still expensive £15K. I done over 100,000 mile since I bought it. It's been serviced every 3 to 4 thousand miles, had recon turbos at 70K, Had a new engine rebuild at 124K + T28 hybrids bla bla bla, at a cost of £12000 thanks to GPS and a year later all completely redone properly at C & S Wood. Everything in and on the engine new including new T2837RS turbos, brand new prop and so much more. then there was a full colour change and body kit in 2003, my reworked front bumper in 2005, three different sets of 18" wheels, rear tyres every 5 to 6k fronts changed about every second time and on and on. Yep it could well be more than £45,000

Yep but I had to cut a lot out of the mouth of the brackets and get rid of the rubber. I've done a little mod and now the brackets are about a 10mm wider than standard. The rad is a PWR. Its a bit of a beast. You can see its deeper than the Koyo and the Koyo cover by about 10mm and wider by about 25mm. Had to take both IC feed and return pipes out to get it in. The big bolt on the end is a stand in as the original was Alloy and the threads stripped. Have a stainless bleed valve to go in.