markzx

Are you sure? because the Apexi and the Greddy Profec both splice into the ECU loom. Where else are they going to get the signal from to say when actuator should be opening and at what psi so as to over ride it with new instructions. As far as I was awhere the Vacunm feeds to the actuators where blocked off and replaced with a single feed taken to them via a T peice with a selenoid controled bleed that is wired to the control unit, Which recieves the signals from the ECU and controls the selenoid bleed using the reprogramed information. Its easy enough to do as every ECU cable port is numbered so either Car specific controler instructions tell you what to splice into or they say which circuit to splice into and the Wireing diagram on the online workshop manual will tell you which number cable those curcuits are. PS as where talking technical specifics I could be talking utter bollcox.

Think about this. A bleed jet is basically a small hole on your accuator (wish I could spell) line to bleed of pressure so the waste gate stays closed longer and allows more presure to build in the system before waste gate is forced open ie boost. Even at it most complexed it has a pre set £50 Valve system, but no control. A boost controler uses a small computor to mesure the presures and constantly corrects as is needed. It is also conected to your ECU so if there is a problem it flags up a warning and displays just what is happening. The jets will bleed at the same rate as the hole size allows wether the ECU is switching to Safety mode or not and therefore you'll still be producing the same Boost and Fooking your motor up. Maybe someone could explain it better, but that is my understanding of it. I wouldn't go that way. cheap power usually ends in tears. Which is exactly why Boost controlers were invented in the first place. No good getting to the front of a race only to go bang and not finish. Stop listening to that little Demon saying "Go for the Jets. It's Cheaper and you can have it now. It'll be alright. GO ON"

Is that a Gen 6 or a Gen 7 like this

No it isn't only Ltd edition 850 T5's Pre 94 and Some T6R's post 03 All the rest are FWD A lot of 2.5T are forwheel drive but they are sh1te

Is it me or is there some serious Freudian inuendo's going off here. In which case your are a bad girl. A VERY NAUGHTY GIRL and do you have any pictures please :slap: :rofl: :rofl: OH yes the Joke mmm a bit yanky don't ya think

Has to be strictly a MkIV. like the Skyline they're easy to milk the power from and very reliable. Just Godam Ugly.

Skill and ability to learn the track Quick is most important thing with the Nurburg matey. Provided no silly little bits that I haven't replace fooks up I'll have a peice of you there then. Think you might get the better at Silversone if it just on times then again how much of your car and track are you up.

They aren't as involving a car to drive as the Z and they forgive high speed fook ups. So if you aren't the best driver in the world and want to go really fast without being on the edge then its for you. However if you are like me and drive anything your in on the edge then its not the car for you cos when you find the edge its too late cos 99% of the time you'll be going too fast and no room to recollect it. If its performance and reliablility issus. Get a Supra :shock: :rant:

Looks a good set up but a little uncivilized. I wouldn't want to travel far in it. What injectors? etc

No it is not and not by a long way. Volvo T5 R 250 bhp and 398 PPF torque 0 to 60 is about the same, but from 40mph it stomps all over the Type R+ Top speed limited to 160mph Volvo T6 TT R 310 BHP and 476 PPF torque 0 t0 60 = 5.9 Top speed limited to 160mph Celica TRD 230 BHP and 317 PPF torque 0 t0 60 = 5.4 Top speed limited to 160mph All much much faster than a Honda Civic Type R Just people who buy Volvos don't tend to race em and TRD Celicas are rare and cost more than a Civic Type R + are designed for handling and circuit racing. Impretzia and a Z. It's like comparing a Truck and a Taxi They are designed to do different things. from mid range on the Z will kill it and should do on a race track, but in the twisties and on the gravel don't even dream of keeping up, because ther the Subaru is in the top three.

Its not the best way of going because you lack control of boost duty values and have know way of knowing if your spiking. If you go this way you really need a Good Boost gauge and lets be honest the good one such as HKS, Greddy, S.A.P or Defi will set you back at least £200. Cheap Gauges arn't worth shit for imfomation. Only have bling value and make you feel happy till the engine goes bang. So IMO I think going for a Apexi or Greddy boost contoler, that has the built in abillity to map your duty and gain for every gear (you don't want big boost in 1st) + will warning if you spike, give digital accurate readings, will allow you to increase or decrease boost if you do further upgrades, but most importantly protect your car. Is the best option and proberbley only cost about the same, But could save you thousands. I know people who run cars for ever with bleed valves, but were only talking 2 to 3 psi up on standard before your heading towards "there's a hole in my piston dear Lyeza". With a good boost controler and chip your looking more like 6 to 7 psi up on standard before its on the edge because the flow is managed. £300 boost controler and JD or AndyZ will not charge that much to Socket and chip you ECU. Its well worth saving a week or 2 more and have confidence that the smile factor isn't going to lead staight to the Bank managers office with a tube of KY jelly.

IMO the most fundimental and almost completely overlooked up grade is a proper set of Tyres. Not Toyo Poxy's, Falkens and all the other rubbish Cheapo tyres. You want Bridgestone S02's They are listed as Porsche only fitment these days but these are the best tyre for the car and were Original fitment. These will deliver unbelievable wet weather handling and amazing dry weather. Lets face it tyres are what keep you on the road. S03's are better in the dry but not as good in the rain Then bushes, Springs and Dampers. Remove HICAS and use something like mintex 1155 compound Pads, or Ferodo fast road. Renew belts, plugs (good irridium type ie HKS or NGK) Water/oil pump, Hoses and water pipes + plenum by pass Full and proper service. Now shes handling and stopping ok and you know that the ancillaries are in good order then if you wish you can start looking at power upgrades. Like everything in life. If you don't have the basics right it will all come unraveled and can be costly to the point of Deadly.

Thats a nice looking ZEE and a sweet colour too. Just shows you realy do have good Taste Leigh :tongue: :rofl: :rofl: come on when oh when are we going to see this car of yours sorted. :hyper:

I'd go along with Danny on this one and furthur more I'd say if your going to remove the plenum Which i think your going to have to (it's not so bad a job just time consuming) then your disturbing a 12 year old very brittle wiring loom which will almost certainly break up as you bend it. A new loom from Ztech is well worth the £300 ish ist costs and is more durable than the original. Believe me it saves a mint in the long run.

I still like your wheels and if you ever need to sell em call me first. They would set my lights of just right. :rofl: :rofl:

I personally find the standard rear lights and 99spec rear light aweful. The shout US market and were the first thing I changed. The only colour the look good on are the Black cars IMO. The standard wheels aren't too hot either and especially the Jspec as they look so weedy. Oh yes and the tweed interiors. Why would you put tweed in a sports car. Apart from that I like the look of the Z even from behind once those aweful stock lights have been binned

Hi Marty Sorry if I get prickley at times. Just too many people on hear want to poo poo lads who are trying to improve the performance of their cars on a limited budget. Most people until they get involved with the serious tuning bug speek Fly. They talk about the new 2.5 Scooby being 320 bhp when infact power to the wheels in about 240bhp which still swishes it along, but 320 sounds better. All the time people talk of Manual 300zx = 300bhp and auto = 280 but we both know RWHP is more like 240 and 220, but even that doesn't show a true picture because the Auto's torque curve is such that it is quicker 0 to 80 than the manual. If you have the knowledge then please remember we all talk fly when were first getting into it and people ask because they don't know and want help.

You need to speek to the person who is going to supply the chip. Tell them what you wish to acheive and be honest about your car. They will provide you with a mapped chip for as near as dam what you car has, but be prepared for the fact that any weak link in your engine will be highlighted and most likely fail if the car is not in good health. Also chips such as JWT, SE, Mines (or the cheepest root being a 300zx.co.uk member would be to talk to John Dixon, Chris Get Greddy or Danny at DTA) are not exact set up for your car and though they will give good perfomance upgrades with appropriate boost will always be within the margin of safety. Real power gains can then be acheived using an emilator to tweek your chip durring a rolling road sesson. That i'm affraid isn't cheep. You can keep the cats and get more power, but v6power is right decating will liberate about 30 t0 40 bhp extra when mapped with better indution and higher boost, but tired Turbo seals will give up the ghost.

He don't say RWHP anywhere. He appears to me to be Talking as though he's looking for a 120 bhp kick in the pants which is a big dollop and dramaticly alters the power to weight ratio and most importantly ups the PPF torque figures. Which has more bearing on prepulsion that telephone BHP figures. You are only now saying RWHP. Car makers only ever talk Flywheel. Lets face it the Ferrari Enzo is only 600BHP at the fly so most people talk fly figures. Real performance coms from power to weight and nice wide torque/ power band. £800 to get a 2 fiths more power or increase you power to weight ratio by 60% is good value and not to be sniffed at. To increase power to 400RWHP your talking almost doubling the power out put which Shouldn't even be dreamt of without serious upgrades. I should know I've read the book, eaten the pie and passed the KY to my bank manager.

You won't see that at the wheels without 555's but at the Fly then its easy peesy as per parts and upgrade I've stated. There are dyno's on TTnet and quite a few here. ie JD had 370 at the wheels with this kind of set up and even only a 18 percent power loss through transmition its well over 400 bhp at the fly. If you don't believe me then show me why you think different. I'm trying to help the guy make serious power gains without blowing his turbos or making his engine unrelyable. Anybody can be negertive. I also have had and run my Z for 7 years in various modified states and think I'm more than qualified through experience to be able to make justifiable claims from experience. Infact top tuners such as JWT, AMZ, JE, and Mines have made these claims for years without being sued for false representation. Who the fook are you?

nice arches. Don't like those wheels though mate. Maybe something a bit wider. EEE EEE

Forget the power FC as its max is about 400 bhp anyway. A good Chip, (John Dixon, Andy Z or DTA) = £100 to £300, + boost controler ie Apexi/Greddy/HKS=£300 to £500 and a good induction kit = £150 to £300 will deliver the power your looking for. Min = £550 max = £1100. Forget the Decats unless you have garenteed evidence that your car really is less than 60K miles. Unfortunately far too many Zeds that have come into the country over the last 3 years claim to be 60K cars but clearly are not. Ask yourself this. If cars at 30K milage are to cost prohibertive to keep in japan then where the fook have all these 1989 to 1992 cars been. The truth is they've been getting thrashed round Malasia for years. Because there are no records they are bought by unscrupalous traders who clock em to 60K and sell em as Jspec. So unless you have documentation to prove that its milage is genuine you should assume it not what it says.

A few more action shots and one of Chris C thinking self camoflarge is E'asy

Na we were shouting that to you when you missed the turning for the track and went racining of to the village. I was merely saying shouldn't you be going down the pit lane instead of heading for Colne :rofl: :rofl: Anyway I got a few pics here

Cheeky coont how dare you post that, I was talking then. :slap: :rofl: :rofl: