santa

Best get a new cap then,you`d be suprised at where water/condenstation can get to

Engine is my last reindeer bless him..donner`s got a bit of a eggnog problem so i`ve had to relieve him till he sorts himself out but Engines not far from retiring you see. Oh ye of little faith.., this is why its getting harder to fly..first it was the elf petrol stations & now disbelievers..

cool..can i have a new engine please,my sleighs knackered

congrats..nice to see another in the area

Happy birthday

rip Mr Walker

concept z have some offers too.

Still cant get it to idle once the revs drop..i`ve just removed my maf and stripped it..my speedo needed another resolder to the reverse side of the board this summer, i`m wondering whether the mafs board or connectors went the same way..all redone cleaned and sealed now and there were a couple of suspects so we`ll see.

of course the cars not working but that`s by the by..anyway you now have the correct colour for a guitar player..rock on!

just for that my number plate reads j300 :tongue:

What..never seen a zed surf!!

Hi jimmer, Yeah i`ve found my idle valve to be out of spec ohm wise so i`ve got another coming from Mr. derby. It starts fine but as soon as the revs come down from the cold start it just hits the floor and dies..restarts every time and holds once warm. But if you are to put load on it when cold its all over the place, surging wanting to die etc. but once up to temp its ok. I`ve replaced the ecu temp sensor, checked the tps..injectors are in range too. ptu is series 2, cas is new. I do need to check the accordion hoses for splits.. Only thing i can think of apart from the idle valve is the maf.. which, i`ve noticed has obviously been dropped by someone in the past as its circuit housing is cracking but that`s been fine up till now .I did borrow joelys maf to compare and it still ran the same although suppose it wouldnt hurt to pop the top off and inspect. Just had to redo my speedo both sides cos the solder had cracked ..maybe this is the same. No error codes. oh and it`s a new loom so no dodgy connections I have the free software ecu talk and datascan plus free conzult so i`ll plug in when i get the chance. The thing that puzzles me is why run ok when warm?

looks good..reg is very close to mine. Must have come in on the same wave!

Hello mate..how the devil are you? Didn`t you move? This engine has caused nothing but trouble..its the one supposedly rebuilt by the little ninja garage..i`ve replaced pretty much everything..just had the cam belt done too..new bde cam pulleys as the others were spraying oil. All the front seals were leaking cos they were the wrong sort..manifold was blowing cos of studs not being in the block properly..replaced almost every gasket and hose as some where missing..replaced injectors..(whilst i remember the cap had broken on #6.) I`ve hardly driven it since i saw you last..not even had the chance to really try your chip out. But I`m at a loss now as to where do i go from here..`i`ve spent too much time,money,blood sweat n tears on it to give up..it`s like always down to money or lack of it. Wish I had a garage..i`d pull it myself

Thought i`d do it cold as the bugger wont run until its hot so my thinking was see whats going on when cold. Not looking good, all over the shop as far as psi tolerances are concerned. My results are cyl1: 145 cyl2: 145 cyl3:130 cyl4:130 cyl5:140 cyl6:120 Double checked today..same results I know thermal expansion would make a difference but its a 25psi difference between 1 and 6. I have a bit of smoke every now and then..the plenum always has a puddle in it. The Sparks are all looking healthy although do seem to have oily threads but no sign of burning oil on the plug itself. So i`m guessing my next course of action should be a warm wet test and see what differs. She did pop the stick just the once awhile ago but i put that down to me not sticking it back in properly..(hung over maintenance never a good thing). Doesn`t use water but is using oil. So am i correct in assuming no.6 has given up the ghost or are there other possibilitys. Any advice/opinions welcomed

sounds interesting

i had that on the drivers side i think..took it to jeff..had to take the engine out

oem are still available in the states..just pricey

i saw that one too but cant find any reviews., all i find is people saying ebay ones are crap so i`ll hold off until i see what you think. Oem Mafs are so expensive new!

Just so you know , i`ve managed to find new oem mass sensors for roughly £205 delivered exc.import duty from oz if you`re interested

yeah does seem that way..i did borrow one before i cleaned everything and the car behaved the same way though?..from what i`ve found if you disconnect the maf the ecu adds fuel , i`m wondering if i have some sort of injector fault too even though the ohms are in spec..just weird that it behaves when warm, but then the element/wire in the maf would be warm too by then. I`ve had the battery out of the car for a week,that should have done it lol. Thinking about the maf this did start after lots of rain and a new apexi filter although it wasnt driven in the rain..maybe it all got wet from water ingress through the nose panel as it was wet on the t piece when i took it off. I have now fashioned a guard out of a plant pot. And my idle valve is slightly out of spec by .6 ohm do you think it would be affected much by that?

UPDATE So i`ve checked all injectors, some varying results e.g some 11.5 11.4 others at 12 ohm so although differing still in spec. The balance bar was leaking , now fixed. I`ve cleaned the idle valves and refitted them. The main idle (adjustable one) is .6 of an ohm out of spec. I changed the water temp sensor for a new one. Changed fuel filter. Checked tps and the idle raised as it should So the good news is a slight miss i had at idle has gone..its just that i still cant get it to idle or run properly when cold. Today with the maf in it was dying then jumping up a thousand revs for a bit then dying. I did unplug the maf and it idled way better but still conked out after a couple of minutes so i`m still suspicious of that. Once its hot it seems fine. So does removing the maf remove the vac part of the cold idle i.e the ecu just runs off a preset and do the injectors behave differently when warm also how much of a difference does .6 of an ohm out of spec have on the idle valve. If its not raining i`ll change the sparks tomorrow. Any help greatly appreciated as i`m doing this myself as we have no zed garages here.

Cheers for that,yep injectors is next on the list. Ive got my laptop working now so i can go plug in.

cheers mate..so looks like my valve is a little off although it does pass the clunk test and hold idle once the cars hot..so ill check the ecu temp sender see if its failing

Hi all. I`m having issues with cold starts/idle/running in that it will start and idle on high but as soon as it drops it chugs, hunts drops and dies. I`ve swapped maf (cheers joely p) and eliminated that, replaced the water temp sensor last year but still have to check. No vac leaks as far as i can tell. So i`m now onto the idle valves. I`ve removed both, cleaned and ohm tested but my query is this. All i can find re the ohms is 10 ohms for the main idle, the idle/aircon compensator i`m not worried about as i have no air con. The bi metal idle valve (air regulator) 75ohm. I`m getting readings of 9.4 ohm and 75.8 ohm respectively . Can anybody tell me whether these readings are in spec i.e is it like the injectors 10-14 ohm or should they be bang on. Cheers in anticipation of enlightenment