santa

I think he means the half moon seals on the cam cover. That part is a sealant job not a gasket. If the seal has failed , short of plugging some how, which will be near impossible due to the oil it`s a plenum off job to reseal. If you`re doing that then it`s worth replacing both the camshaft and half moons also obviously re sealing the side covers. Not a hard job just very time consuming.

All removed. Dremeled the lip off. Bearing pressed out.

What`s happened is whoever fitted the clutch didn`t grind the 4mm off the sleeve and the clutch did it for them.

spigot bearing? that`s in the crank isn`t it. Do you mean the release bearing on the shaft and or the bearing carrier? looking at the instructions that bearing is giken specific and i`d be replacing that with a stock one. As long as the fact that the shaft sleeve is now a bit shorter than stock and that doesn`t cause any issues all should be fine.

Didn`t it just..thought i was going mad. must have been a badly fitted bearing or plate. I bought it from Jaffa who took it off a breaker. He said he drove it and the box was good. The sleeve metal is obviously soft for this reason.

Well I`ve figured out that the lip looks like it`s been created by the clutch pressing on the sleeve and basically heating it up and reforming it. Giken twin plate was fitted according to Jaffa. I`ve managed to take the lip off with pliers, tomorrow I`ll smooth the rest off and hopefully the carrier should pop off. I`m guessing that`s not normal. Anybody with experience of these clutches had anything similar? Just hope the box is ok.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]85012[/ATTACH anybody know? I thought it was just on a shaft. Not with this lip.

I`ve wondered if the jap chip does the same job at converting the information and it`s the resistors etc that actually make the difference. if that was the case it would be relatively simple to change things about no?

Also the bronze screw is in the 10k hole (as you look at the top of that pic) on the uk not the 100k. The part for that screw is easily changed, it`s only soldered in.

When i had a similar issue it was the fuel pump ecu itself. Pm = preventative maintenance

some of that is really quite stunning

seconded

How do these differ from the online manual. I have it on my phone. Not sure if people are aware you can do that but got mine off the play store for free and its great. And don`t say its paper, lol

The climate control pods control the actuators on the vent unit (situated behind the centre radio cubby hidden from view) and the fan unit. That year has just a basic demist function (the one with the windscreen on it) that will actuate the flap in the unit for the screen.If you still have working aircon you can use Auto function too. But as in all things try the fuse mentioned above first.

My understanding is it converts the signal from pulse/wave(gearbox sensor output) to digital (speedo head)then that information heads off to the respective ecu(s)

Just took the car for a spin around the block after refitting the resoldered speedo head and cleaned and retensioned connectors. Power steering is back. Fingers crossed it`s permanent, but what a difference.

Ouch..get lots of heat to it too. More blood flow etc

mooo

I`ve used the intermarket water temp sender with no issues

Hi lymon, I've literally just finished going over the speedo board with a soldering iron. I haven't checked the cruise control yet. My thoughts are exactly that though. The speedo isn't putting the signal out. I noticed some questionable joints on some resistors and the main chip, so I've attempted to solder both sides of the board in these areas. The speedo stopped working earlier in the year due to a bad joint on a capacitor. Looks like age is catching up with the boards. Already had to fix the fuel ecu due to the same issues.

Also the pass thru point as far as i can surmise from circuit diagrams and a bit of common would appear to be the 2p part of the speedo head. If 2p stands for secondary power or even, to power (steering ecu) than that would make sense.

pressure sensor or solenoid?

That side of things is fine mate.

Hello alll, Santa`s clearly been a naughty boy and the spirit of christmas zeds has decided to take away his power steering. It`s been displaying symptoms for awhile, mainly being a little stiff first thing (steady now) but being ok when warmer. The hicas light came on the other night along with a drop in assistance. I did the usual and checked the levels. Seems ok but my float is worn and it`s always a guess. So i used a probe and measured this against the guage. All good. Still the same result so It`s not that. So, as i drive off all is good then after 10-20 secs or over say 15mph the steering gets heavier but not totally gone, then shortly after that the hicas light to bring my attention to a fault. Looking at the manual it states that this occurs if the ecu is not getting a signal relevant to the cars speed so goes into a failsafe sort of mode and stops the hicas. This also keeps the steering at motorway speed assistance levels. The temperature thing makes me think it`s an electrical connection issue. I`m aware the signal path comes from the gearbox thru the speedo head to the hicas ecu and then that gives the relevant signal to the solenoid etc. Now my speedo reads fine (but it could be the pass thru connection on the board). That rules out the gearbox speed sensor. Next is this pass thru connection. Does anybody know which wire it is? The fact that the steering still has some form of assistance and points in this direction but it`s hard to find any information on which components or sensors cause which symptoms apart from that which i`ve already stated. Anybody?

35+mpg is quite achievable if as mentioned on a motorway and in a manual. I did that a few years ago driving in france.