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lymon

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Everything posted by lymon

  1. old/faulty or wrongly gapped spark plugs can also cause weird problem at higher revs, but normally it only occurs under boost. Might be worthwhile to check anyway.
  2. that's probably because most standard speedos usually have a positive deviation from the factory. By installing larger wheels this deviation will decrease and make the speedo more accurate.
  3. the speedo will be off by about +10% by changing the TT for a NA/leader diff gear. (so the speedo will show a higher speed then you are actually driving) larger wheels will have a negative effect, eg going from 16" to 18" will result in approx -6% (depends on tire size)... so in other words.. your speedo will most likely still indicate a 5% higher speed then that you are actually doing...best is to check with a GPS.
  4. the original connectors should be coming from the wastegate actuator solenoids. these are normally a bit hard to reach/see http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=efec&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=12&design=default&total=190
  5. it's best to get the gearbox cooler in direct airflow, not blocked by any other coolers/obstacles. You already noticed yourself how hot it gets. if you have enough room you can also install the cooler vertically... >> On one of my oil feed pipes for the engine has a metal restrictor in it, is this supposed to be there? Yes, it 's there to increase oilpressure and slow the flow through the cooler...be it just a little. >>Does it matter which pipe from the gearbox gets fitted to what end on the cooler itself ( feed and return ) No
  6. If you want to destroy your turbos, then just remove them. if you don't then leave them alone :D The stock recircs are good up to 2.5 bar of boost, they only downside is the weird sound if you want to get rid of the "whoo" sound, there are recircs available in the US with different springs, or you can replace them with dump valves. -Eric
  7. yes, miles. Zeds with >240000km/150000ml are no exception. That highest mileage TT I've seen had done 312000 kms !!
  8. The VG30DETT is a strong engine. few things that can destroy it in just a few seconds are: -detonation -overheating (esp. coolant/oil) -low oil level or bad oil. if you can protect it from those, an engine in good shape will be able to handle a LOT of power -Eric
  9. I've seen numerous Zeds over here in Holland with well over 150000 miles. Highest mileage on a TT I've seen was 194000 miles and it was still running pretty good Good and regular maintenance is the keyword. -Eric
  10. ehrm..what mobile guys ? if you haven't got a conzult, do it like this: http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html or easier method to get the ECU to cough up any errors: http://twinturbo.net/ttnetfaq/FAQpages/ECUdiagnostics.html -Eric
  11. did you already do a ECU diagnostic check ? You could have a faulty det. sensor causing the safetyboost. (code 34) -Eric
  12. smoke doesn't always have to be bad. Could be condensation (white), especially if the weather is cold. It's bad if the smoke is blueish/grey and smells of burned oil
  13. >> SO I CAN SAFTLY SAY I CAN FIT A TT PLENUM TO MY NA AND FIT MY ORIGINAL BALENCE BAR TO IT? yes :D
  14. I'll probably be joining you guys somewhere along the trip and will see if there are any others overhere that want to join as well. do I have to bring any spare radiators ? :D -Eric
  15. plenum is the same. balance pipe is slightly different. -Eric
  16. rolled arches (popular in Japan): strosek widebody: real widebody :D
  17. better spend your money on an accurate water temp gauge.
  18. >> What level should it be in the rad, as I cant see a level? rad should be topped up and as full as possible. at the very least you should be able to see the coolant, when looking into the filler neck of the rad. -Eric
  19. coolant level, when cold, should be checked (and topped up) in the radiator. the level in the overflow tank (yellow cap) is not that important, as long as there is some coolant in it and it is not too full.
  20. Nice ! :bow: vrh35Z: ~700 hp in stock form. some nice nissan race engines and cars on this Japanese website : http://www.sugibuchi.com/Car/NissanRacing.php also the VG30: http://www.sugibuchi.com/Car/VG30/VG30.php
  21. see if your overflowtank is over the max. what usually happens is the water is dropped into the overflowtank, because of the pressure buildup in the cooling system and once the overflowtank is full, the coolant is thrown out in the open.
  22. >> If a lightweight pulley is fitted to a old engine this may cause big end wear or worse. I recently had a very interesting experience with a lightweight pulley regarding this issue. One of my Zeds developped a rod knock last month and as an experiment I decided to swap the stock pulley for a lightweight one, just to see if there was a difference in balance (less balance: the knock should become more obvious/louder) The interesting part was that with the leightweight pulley the rod knock was almost gone (you could barely hear it) !! I drove the car like this for a few days and the knock didn't get worse. Swapped the stock pulley back on and the knock was back again and as loud as before. >> nissan fitted this pulley for a reason if the wanted to make it light they would have done if you take a good look at the rubber harmonic damper core of most (now 14+ year old) stock pulleys, you'll see there's not much left of it anyway. -Eric
  23. >> Just heard Apexi in Japan have gone bust!! I thought that already happened last year ? hence the name change to Apexera (since they were bought by another company) Nothing on their website about this bankrupcy either ? http://www.apexera.co.jp/carlife/
  24. check the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and/or engine temp sensor.
  25. sounds like there's something wrong with one of the turbos (that is if the boostgauge won't move past 0) http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/dsbc_manual.html

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