lymon

you can buy Freeze-12 and R414B refill kits for approx. $60 on ebay, both work quite well. Both are direct replacements for R12 (Freeze-12 is 100% compatible with R12 and can be mixed, but this is not recommended) 414B cools slightly better. NB: you can also buy large containers of genuine R12 on ebay, but you may have slight legal/environmental problems getting it overhere :D

Has the waterpump been replaced? I've worked on a few different Mazda's MX-models and I've noticed on some of them the blades/rotors in the pump can dissolve completely due to rust/corrosion.

I presume you upgraded your NA ECU to a TT ECU as well ? If not, then that's your problem...

The problem you describe sounds like typical behaviour of a viscous LSD and the behaviour gets worse when the oil gets bad/old/overheated or when the diff. is just worn. Changing oil never hurts, but if the old oil smells burned or contains black chunks, the diff is worn and needs to be replaced. PS: only use a GL5 rated diff oil.

> if I get wheel spin in the wet the car also seems to drift to the left even in a straight line, I don't know if the two are related at all. is caused by the limited slip differential: one side will always get a little bit more torque than the other. this effect will get worse when the diff.oil has never been replaced and when the diff. overheats (less of a problem on euro/uk spec diffs, because these have extra external cooling)

Vijay, most likely it's just condensation, but to be safe it's best is to keep a close eye on the coolant level and temperature the coming weeks. -Eric

http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/maintenance/tl_z32clutch/Z32_clutchadj.html http://www.specialtyz.com/clutchadj.htm

as said before it's the WOT or kickdown switch found on autos > If its an Auto it will be kickdown, if a manual you will need to trace it as it will be aftermarket ! or it has had an AT>MT conversion.

Knife-edging the crank of a VG30DE(TT) can have a positive effect on the rotating mass, especially when combined with other lightweight parts (rods/pistons/flywheel/pulley), but make sure the crank + extra parts are balanced VERY well together. It's a bit overkill on a VG with stock rods/pistons unless you want to squeeze every little bit extra out of the engine Our engines hold very little oil in comparison to other engines. Most of the oil is spread over other areas of the engine/turbos, so the crank doesn't "slosh" that much through oil at all in comparison to engines with more oil and so it barely looses any power over this.

number is very hard to read in most cases. it's on the back of the engine, drivers-side on a RHD car there's a small tab of the cylinder block stick out (below the cylinderhead) where the number is punched in. http://300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi?list=gi&dir=&config=&refresh=&direction=forward&scale=0&cycle=off&slide=20&design=default&total=25

>> Is it possible to replace this seal in-situ? not really...gearbox needs to be dropped

Not a good idea to leave them on. under boost the valves need positive (boost) pressure to keep the valves closed completely or they will start to leak air/boost...this is often the case with older valves with worn out springs. The smaller vacuum hoses on top on top of the valves provides the pressure to keep the valves closed under boost and open under high vacuum

usually this is a sign that the RMS (rear main crank seal) is on it's way out. the effect gets a lot worse when crankcase pressure gets higher then normal (eg. due to an engine oil overfill or clogged/malfunctioning PCV valves) look for signs/drips of oil on the lowest point of the belhousing , where the gearbox meets the engine (there's a small hole there to prevent oil build up in the bellhousing.)

near cyl #6 = passenger side on a RHD car, when sitting in the car

>> according to the data the temp was 80 degrees actually it's showing 79C and even as this is only a 2 degree difference of what the ecu will assume as a fully warmed up engine, it will still advance the timing 5-7 BTDC . > the timing is showing out on the datascan because of the manual conversion in this case timing would be even higher..in fully warmed up state (temp should be 81C or higher) it would show 25BTDC at idle Also, the timing advance of the 10BTDC in the case of a AT>MT conversion without ECU modification is ONLY at idle.

your TPS is either disconnected or faulty. >> if the datascan is reading correct then the timing is very advanced that's because the engine is not warmed up yet. Timing will only revert to normal values when eng.temp is > 80C

>> car started 29times with the error code 12 AFM this means your car had a airflow-meter or airflow-meter wiring/connector problem 29 starts ago..so it's an old problem that happened some time ago. It could be something as simple as a loose connector or the car was once started without a AFM connected (eg. for test purposes) clear the error and see if it comes back (it shouldn't). If it does, check/clean the AFM connector first and if that doesn't help replace the AFM or swap with a known good one to see if that solves the problem.

yes, box + flexplate + Torque converter + ecu are different between NA/TT it is possible to fit a TT box to a NA, but you will need all the above parts It should also be possible to fit a NA box to a TT, but it won't be able to cope with the power.

export VG30DETT engines from Japan are 90% junk, so VERY risky unless you have very good and honest contacts in Japan. Also having 1 engine shipped from Japan will cost serious money, unless it can be shipped together with something else in a container but still, no warranty, no details that can be verified, etc. ussually cheaper/better to get an engine with high mileage but in good shape from a (honest) local source and put in new gaskets, oilpump, bearings and rings (and maybe pistons)

this is because the actuators will not operate the wastegate flappers any longer and the turbos will spool up to extremely high rpm's and will give everything they have (very bad for both turbos and engine !) Consider yourself lucky you didn't blow up your engine !

>> the oil cooler mountings holes doesnt seems to fit anywhere where should it be mount (a pics would be appreciated) depends on what oilcooler you have. if you have one from a TT, the cooler should be mounted under the nose panel in front of the elec. fan. (you will need to remove the stock airbox to be able to reach this area) >> on my 95 harness i have a connector that goes right next to the egr valve and i dont have this connection on my tt engine... im using the tt ecu do i need to do something about this or just leave the connector unpluged? it's probably for a EGT temp sensor. you can leave it disconnected if your engine doesn't have this. However you will need a '90-'93 ECU (VERY important). you won't be able to use your NA ecu >> I bought a manual boost controller and I removed the stock wastegate solenoid... there was a hose from (before turbo compression piping) to the wastegate solenoid. It seems like I dont need this connection with my aftermarket boost controller is that correct? Do I plug those holes... with a manual controller it's best to leave the stock configuration as it was, since this will retain safetyboost (for in case something is wrong) and since MBC's have a tendency to overshoot/spike the boost it's better to be safe then sorry. If you have an electronic controller you can remove all that stuff and connect the controller's solenoid straight to the wastegate actuators. >> I also bought a boost gauge i plug it right on the balance tube... will it work properly. if not where i should plug it will work fine on any hose taken from the balance bar >> I removed the (wheel well) to find out there was no AIV is this critical??? my n/a engine was working great is not critical, but again you will need a '90-'93 ECU programmed with AIV removed otherwise the idle may be a little erratic. >> Where is the boost jets goes (does it matters if there is any, if yes, why) boostjets AND a manual boost controller ???? I don't think the engine will last very long. >> Where the right throttle chamber vacuum (pointing the front of the car) is plugged to... it runs to the carbon canister using a small pipe on one of the intercooler pipes >> where recirculation valve top should lead (where on the intake manifold) both recircs run to the balance bar/plenum

already exists: http://www.ztechz.net and http://forum.ztechz.net/

it's quite hard to get all the air out of the system when changing the oil in the hydraulic clutch system and can lead to complete nightmares. So...my advice, if your clutch works fine and there's no leak in the system, don't touch it ! The oil (brakefluid) in the hydraulic clutch system doesn't need to be changed as frequently as eg. brake fluid or engine oil. -Eric

The NAVAN steering wheel in the top picture was an option available on the japanese models. (just like RECARO seats and navan spoilers/wheels/gearknobs) Nissan partnr. for the one with HICAS and CC buttons is: D842V-11320 Some Nissan dealers are able to get it...but it's VERY expensive. (in the 700GBP region)

>> so is there a way of stopping the engne from cooking once it has been turned off? no, not really.. having a fan turned on after the engine is off won't help much either. You'd need an electric coolant pump instead of a a belt driven one. There's a guy in the US that has converted to an electric pump, but it involves a lot of work: http://ashspecz.com/Image%20Gallery/Electric%20Water%20Pump/