WillieO

Give it another year and early Maser 3200s will be less than £25k. Same mass as a Z twin tubs V8 tho and probably much less reliable. Incidently had a French colleague in the car this week, Picked im up at the airport, He got in said "nice". Then spoiled it by saying "what is it? a Hyundai?" Then he said how well Renault was at sorting out Nissan. :mad:

I'm on my second set of 18". Was FK03 or 4s now the 451s with the v style tread. I'm happy with them. But when the fronts are worn I might try something else to see if it sorts out a persistent slight annoying wheel balance problem in case its related to these tyres. I think the wear rating is 260 so that means harder compound than the previous ones but they dont slip in the dry and are OK in the wet.

clean the TPS connector terminals again - scrape any green oxide with a very small screwdriver plug and unplug a few times carefully and wiggle the wiring under the tps when its running at 1000rpm+ You'll know your near the problem when it drops to normal. Mines still does this from time to time.

Is a spacer equipped rear just for show or can it go? Seems to me the laws of physics would really get the rear suspension out of shape with high bhp and 2" spacers. It must also strain the hicas out of spec because the greater turn radius.

Well if you were in the USA http://www.nissan-auto-and-parts.com/auto_body_parts/300zx-1992-bodyparts---582.html US$156 for a front wing - less than £100 each betcha its a tad more here!

That bhp increase is very possible for that cash - even less! so long as your engine is in good condition to start with and your turbos too. But stick with the JWT or SE chip, boost jets(mig tips) to 14psi, intake kit and exhaust. But burn the candle twice as bright etc etc Oh and spend money on stopping too

John Was replacing them easy or is it a workshop press job?

John Did you replace because it was totally worn out with play and noise? I have an uncurable wheel balance problem and am beginning to wonder if the bearings on one or both side are worn a bit. Cant feel any play or roughness though. Its not too bad but annoys me at high cruising speeds.

In a sentence UK ones have a bigger radiator and even an oil cooler on the diff for continuous high speed running plus more likely to have leather whereas imports likely to be rust free with some add on goodies included.

I think even fully synthetic is still semi synthetic! Does'nt make sense I know. Mines is high mileage, been used to semi all its life and has been flushed once as well. Since I've had it its been using Castrol RS 0-40. Supposedly full synthetic. No problems no leaks.

Ingliston 27 and 28 Sept Z Club stand 76. Anyone from here going along?

Take it that the ecu chip is not a special one? Maybe programmed for 550 injectors? If this was used with stock injectors the fueling would be very weak mixture. Other poss is an air leak - maybe you pulled off or damaged an inlet manifold hose when you fitted the mig tips and its drawing air

think you hit the nail on the head - an air lock sounds likely.

Generally thats how they fail safe - they loose the wax filling and then just stay open all the time. the give away is to start the engne from cold - let it tickover - hand on the top hose feeling the temp - if it warms slowly then thermostat is alrady open from cold. The way it should work is the top hose stays stone cold until the temp guage is well off the cold mark and then suddenly the hose heats up just as the stat opens. You'll be wasting a fortune in fuel and maybe staying on safety boost too. Best get a new one soon. Its not that hard to change it.

Gio Front camber can be adjusted by the use of specially made shims behind the front suspension top link mounts. Rear has a rotary cam type adjustment on the diff end of the rear top suspension member. Only front caster/kingpin inclination cant be changed - unless you have adjustable front tie rods - I think the rose jointed ones are usually adjustable to change the caster angle. Just a clarification. Obviously you have to fix duff bushes rather than compensating for them with adjustments. But a zed was never designed for 18"/19" wheels and really you need almost zero camber on the rear and minimal at the front with these.

Nope. I get heat through the floor from the zorsts as well as the heater so its usually too warm. Has it always been so on yours? Possibility is a jammed shut heater control valve or air control flaps or... Are you sure that the heater matrix hasnt been by passed by a previous owner. Its a common fault that they burst and the easy fix is to by-pass it in summer because you'd never notice it was gone. look for a U bend hose that goes straight back to the engine and 2 unused pipes sticking out the bulkhead!

There are some variations on the propshaft with different years and the auto one defo has a different gearbox end on it. Nissan can usually get the bits in a day or two and there are others here who can supply - mjp is one - see traders

Think thats a tad too north west for Faisal;) Stuart His new rubber would be down to the rims by then if alignment is needed specially if those are 19" wheels! Anyways I can see how a good one does tracking and can adjust the rear camber if he knows that theres an adjuster there but how can these guys adjust front camber without shims on the top link mount or adjust front castor without having adjustable length front tension rods? If those are expensive tyres then adjustable rear top links are in order and adjustable front top links (not the crap ones that bend) or shims are in order before you go anywhere near the alignment guys. I found that even maxing out the rear camber adjuster still doesnt dial out all the neg camber. And it is neg camber that kills the inside edge of very wide low profile rears.

Never mind! With a zed you have a power to weight ratio problem and only 2 wheel traction. Your mates transmission and clutch will be a pile of dust on the road soon with that much power. Anyway the mods you have should be making 500+bhp once the 550s are on. I've driven my neigbours new 300+bhp sti and it is incredible to 100mph easily wasting a stock zed (2 seconds). Plus it sticks to the road. Unless you are into 120mph plus racing I think its a fight you cant win against a 400bhp one. Besides a zed looks the part. A Scooby for all its techno brilliance has looks that are defo an acquired taste.

Centre bearing about £135-150 plus up to 3 hours labour to do the job if youve big zorsts that have to be dropped first.

Big allys and an over enthusiastic tyre fitter with an air impact wrench can distort the front hubs. Try backing off your front wheel nuts and re tighten evenly to the correct torque settings.

Woops didnt read all that stuff at the foot of your post - looks like you got everything bar an altimeter! Still 18psi is a lot of boost!

By Kirbz Not true - You got to have more air/oxygen. If you exceed the design possibilities for the turbocharger all you get is higher pressure heated turbulent air which carries less oxygen than lower pressure cold air. Result chocolate pistons, fried rings and a big rebuild bill but you can tell your friends you were running 19psi for a while. Sounds like your turbos shouldnt be stretched past 15psi anyway and you might need to invest in bigger intercoolers. Plus your chip wont be fuel mapped for 15psi plus boost of even cold air. Everything has an optimum then its downhill from there.

Dave Getting less vibration as it warms up does point to the box mount being suspect but also the centre bearing. It is not the bearing itself that usually fails, only that the rubber bellows affair that supports it which hardens and cracks at the top side and then sags the shaft down onto the bottom side of the mount. I found this with mine. I should replace the gearbox mount as well but havnt got round to it. Instead I jacked the transmission up slightly and slipped some rubber pieces into the slot in the rubber mount to pack it slightly and counter the sag and lack of support. Seems to have worked as there is no vibration on mine now. Both components are implicated here as they allow the output shaft of the transmission to point down slightly and the centre bearing lets the middle of the shaft sag. All adds to vibration possibilities and ultimately ruined oil seals and damaged universal joints on the propshaft. search will show you loads on this

There's a filler plug that is also the level - once its coming out again its full!