JeffTT

Hang on! by not turning do you mean the face part of the pulley? if so that is normal if the air con is off or low on gas as the pulley uses a magnetic clutch and so can disengage. If however you mean the whole pulley is not turning then the compressor has seized and removing the belt is the best bet, a replacement compressor will be needed if this is the case. Sound like you have a water leak too, inlet pipes above water pump or water pump itself, the pipes tend to leak with the engine running the water pump after the engine is off. Jeff TT

Steve, a sincere heartfelt sorry to hear this from myself, Lynda and Jamie, a real grounder in life for us all, best wishes to all of your family and hoping for the best of outcomes for you all. Jeff

A question asked with implied scepticism is a personal view that has an appropriate personal answer If yes is the answer the question is answered If NO is the answer the question is faulty :) Jeff TT

Correct me if I am wrong Tony but I understood it that only the live showings will be on Sky with the recorded programme shown later on normal digital, hope so anyway!! Jeff

Were the lifters new? if they were they should come in a sealed bags full of oil to keep them primed. It possible they have drained and are not jacking out due to restricted oil flow, this may be the reason the originals were noisy too. Ask them to do a leak down test to deterime where the lost compression has gone, of course they may have got the valve timing wrong when fitting the cambelt, would not be the first time we have seen this. Jeff TT

All back to normal this morning, did have to reboot the modem though!! Jeff TT

As Tony said, keep a totally legal set in your boot with sticky pads on. Jeff TT

If ever your feel sore at Nissan main dealer prices try a Bmw main dealer and Nissan seem really fair, the little fellow below is an ABS module it controls of course the abs the dsc ( direct stability control ) the active steering and the traction control. Unfortunately this failed on my 540i recently and whilst I could drive the car still the faults lights on the dash not only bugged me but remind you that all the driver aids mentioned above are not available. So the first option was to try a company who specialise in repairing these units, sadly no go as it was not repairable! so a call to BMW and the good news its in stock BUT the eye water cost was £970 + vat!!! The more observant may see that the unit is made by Bosch so a bit of research and I found a specialist company 20 miles from me who can supply the exact same unit direct from Bosch for £360 all in, what a flipping mark up by BMW? So ends up a happy ending...well sort of, the unit been brand new requires it to be coded to my car, and guess what? BMW quoted me £80+ vat for plugging in their unit and setting it up...arghhhhhh. Jeff TT

Yes sorry matey with the 01827 311190 (ip phone re-direct )number out of action there is always the 01675 463134 number. Speak soon Jeff

Anyone suffer broadband issue`s today in central midlands? we did around midday, we lost broadband connection which also lost us one of our incoming lines as its a voice over IP line. By the time we realised it and called BT they were NOT answering calls, we tried 5 different business lcontact numbers of which two are part of our business quick response package...no answer, eventually on one line after waiting for 25 minutes to become calller number one we was informed a major fault had developed and the engineers were trying to fix it and it had coverered a large area. Left at 5.30pm and still not on!! Jeff TT

Your welcome, hope it helps you. Passenger side window runs through the module on the drivers side, the passenger side is a switch only so no module for it. Jeff TT

Here you go, all revealed in close up, get your soldering iron out! and the passenger side window does need the unit in place. Jeff

No, access it by slightly lifting the bottom of the card away from the door and it is roughly centre of the door on a clip, pull hard and it will come down and the cable can be easily disconnected. How many times I have taken door panels off and then found the above method takes like 10 seconds....ahem Jeff TT

Mmmm....:thumbup: Use a good strong glove and catch and hod the fan blade, temp should come up to around 82c let the blade go and it should stay around 80c. Exactly right, many 02 sensors are mistakenly written off by talking no load readings only. Without a thermostat the temperature would be more like 60c to 65c Never seen the ecu change the reference timing because your adjusting the actual dynamic timing??? Lock the command timing ......no facility for that? The 25deg timing has been established is due to the lack of neutral signal so is VERY relevant as when checking with a timing light you need to check it at 25deg. Temp differences of 5c or so degrees may not make any obvious difference now but is evidence of a potential problem or issue on the way, either the thermostat is not modulating ( regulating) the running temp correctlty, the viscous fan is locking too early or the temp reading is actually incorrect due to a sensor issue. Mmmm...yep! lol

Fixed...thanks Jeff

As far as your passenger side window check the cut out switch on the drivers side that isolates it for when you have a child in the passenger seat. The little black box is fixable see tech thread I did some time back Drivers side window issues? the window power amp controller has a habit of failing leading to an intermittent or non working window, lucky it is a very easy fix and free to boot if you can use a soldering iron. The unit in question is fitted in the drivers door, it is held in place with a single 10m bolt and has one 8 way connector plugged in to it, roughly just off central towards the rear of the door. Once removed the outer case needs easing off the lower connector area, the internal part then slides out in one piece. Photo 1 shows the internal parts of the unit and the pcb its all mounted on removed from the outer case, the two relays to the left are the output up and down for the window motor and the steel busbars to the right are the connection interface to the door wiring loom and the source of the problems. Photo 2 shows the unit end up where the connector goes in and again the source of most issues the unit suffers from. Photo 3 shows the rear of the pcb and the area in red is where the connector busbars are soldered to, not easy to see the problem yet. Photo 4 shows the problem in clearer detail, the pin solder has failed and this is the cause of the intermittent or no connection and the failed window operation. Photo 5 shows the method of repair, by applying a soldering iron to the effect area the solder will reflow and make a new connection. Photo 6 shows the final result, a nice solid connection that will get that window operating again, just put the unit back together and refit to the door. Happy fixing :D Jeff TT

The propshaft would still be kept in place by the cross brace on the floor pan Jeff TT

They do feels so mucher smoother than the origial don`t they? Jeff TT

Good chance there is some issue with the fork assembly. Jeff TT http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=145251&highlight=clutch+fork

Never mind, your advise was correct so thats all that matters. Jeff

Oh no what have I done.......... :headvswal Jeff TT

So what is the point of having photo`s on then? Jeff TT

Nice.... Jeff TT

PM sent matey Jeff

A thousand words ..........;) Jeff TT