JeffTT

Mmm.....got you there :whistling: Jeff TT

The dent would be pulled from the outside using one of these Jeff TT

From my experience keep the actuator boost solenoids connected which has triple benefits, first you keep the a level of safety if detonation occurs, and full boost is harnessed when the engine is cold. The third benefit is the boost controller duty level will be lower and this gives greater range for adjustment and lower solenoid response time which is helpful when setting up. Boost controllers are universal so settings will not be the same from one car to the next. Jeff TT

Could try these, but if these fail the battery is a gonna. Jeff TT

New style poly bushes are better designed now and do not have the issue`s that previously led to lower fixing failure. The poly bushes come with all what is needed for around £60, changing them is easier with a press and a few different drifts, remove the arms from the car and go to a garage with a press...takes about 5 mins for both. Jeff TT

To repair to a standard ready to paint any bodyshop would easily make that repair in the £200 area, but there will be a final skim of filler who ever repaired it. Jeff TT

Well if the sump is the issue the addative is not going to help as there is no gasket on the sump, the two half moon end seals are hard neoprene so again will not help...shame. Jeff TT

Ok before attempting to replace the belt, be aware that the tensioner pulley will be toast now and will need replacing. The ball bearings in the bearing race will be broken up and even if you can free it up a little it will defo fail again and could potentially throw the belt with the dangers that can bring its not worth it, so get a new pulley first. Was your aircon working before the belt went? just to be sure make sure the compresor turns ok, and that you have pressure in the system. To replace the ac belt the ps belt needs to come off first, this can all be done from below with the undertray removed, also the fan shroud has a lower section that can be removed also, spanner and socket sizes required, 10mm 12mm 14mm Good luck. Jeff TT

Edited direct to the post. Jeff

300ZX Carbon fibre bonnet here> http://www.amber-performance.co.uk/product.php?xProd=10167&xSec=731 and here> http://www.carnoisseurdirect.com/seibon-carbon-fibre-bonnet-hood-nissan-300zx--fairlady-z-z32-19901996-oem-style-hd9096ns300-oe-25383-p.asp Jeff TT

Cleaned those pics for you and labled the first one, does that help? Jeff TT

With the amount of "bad press" seen on here concerning some certain engine builders and their morally bad practises most find themselves knocking Jimmers door to get it done correctly. However it can often be of interest when a new player in the world of rebuilds turn up, one such player has come to our attemtion twice in the past month ( link below) http://www.idealengines.co.uk/img/header-image.jpg Now before i go on, we have no evidence this company is bad at all and as such this is not a slagging off thread just an information one. A customer who decided to source his own replacement engine for us to fit contacted the company above and had a quote for a rebuilt engine and is described as below: Units sourced from low mileage vehicles Engine blocks throughly cleaned and surfaces treated. Engine Block Surfaces Machined Flat. Tolerances checked on wearable items. Oil pumps inspected or replaced where needed. Cylinder heads skimmed or replaced where needed. New OEM oil seals installed. New OEM valve seals fitted. Valve seats machined. Valves lapped to ensure a tight seal. Block cylinders inspected for cracks. New cylinder liners fitted. Cylinders machined to factory specs. New uprated gas nitride piston rings fitted. Connecting rods inspected and machined where necessary. Crankshaft crack tested, ground and polished to specifications. New OEM big end bearings fitted. New OEM main bearings fitted. New OEM spec Eristic head gasket fitted. All bolts torqued to OEM specs according to Autodata. Assembled units oil pressure tested. Assembled units compression tested. Ok sounds all very aggreable and given the cost is a mere £1200 inc vat it appears at first hand a very good deal indeed. So with the regular fitting charge he thought a couple of grand and he would be done.....oh no :nono: It not what the comprehensive list above included its what it does not include is the key. I spoke with them to confirm the figures and confirm for the customer exactly what he would get for £1200 in case it impacted on our swap over cost.....it did!!! Its what they call a bare block rebuild NOT INCLUDED Turbos Exhaust manifolds Inlet manifold ( plenum) no throttles No lower plenum No injectors No injector rail No fuel damper No fuel regulator No ancillaries No bottom pulley No flyheel or flex plate (auto) NO CAMBELT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! No belts adjuster No belt pulleys No cambelt covers ( x 3 ) No water pump No thermostat No inlet pipes ( alloy front ones) No pcv valves or pipe No oil filter No oil The cost alone of swapping all if the usable parts from his engine and new parts to the new one doubles the swap out price and some with gaskets and belts, the ancillaries I conceed would not be included in a rebuild but no cambelt? what the hell, how can they turn the engine over after rebuild and be sure all is ok with no cambelt?? and no oil filter, so no bearings primed then. As I said I do not know this company or the quality of their rebuild work but what this does prove is be very careful when comparing prices, its not what they include or say, its what they do no not say and do not include is the key. Be careful out there .... Jeff TT

We use one of these in the workshop, excellent at determining actual temp of water in and out of the rad, the block, heads and anything else you point it at, good for brake disc temp readings too, look around as prices vary, around £50 is a good price. Jeff TT Infra red temp gun

Try raising the tickover speed a little by switching the AC on next time it does it, often breather issues with the pcv valves can be the culprit and rausing the tickover changes the vacuum balance within the breather system and stops the smoke. The pcv valves are the first stop anyhow as they are inexpensive in comparisson to turbo change, £80 (ish ) instead of £1,800 ( ish ) Jeff

Have the same problem when I collect parts from one of our suppliers, they have confirmed that most car alarms will not arm when parked in their carpark, across the road is a haulage company and it has a huge mast on the roof for communicating with their drivers in cab systems got to be connected me thinks, also some years ago I used to visit a garden centre close to the Sutton Coldfield TV Antenna and the same thing happened there, its all houses there now, what a mare if you cannot arm you car on your own drive! Jeff TT

Yes I know, the curse of been self employed I fear... Jeff

Thought it might be interesting to collate some of the information from the ConZults we done at JAE it shows some particular similar issues and an increase over last year with thermostats failing in the open position, some of the missing info was due in part to not having pens and paper that work well in the rain! Jeff TT Nick d 300z Mileage 104, 829 J reg. Faults found 1 ) Det sensor circuit failed 2 ) Loose connection to idle solenoid 3) Timing 1 deg retarded 4) Throttle balance adjustment required ........................... Wide arch Mileage 122,432 G reg. Faults found 1) Det sensor wiring fault to ecu 2) Base idle too high 3)Timing 2 deg retarded 4)Throttle balance adjustment required 5)TPS setting incorrect (0.56v ) ............................ Graham Mileage 83,267 K reg. 1)TPS setting incorrect (0.25v) 2) Base idle too low ............................ Gonzo Mileage 68,000 J reg. 1) O2 sensors no signals 2) Base idle too low 3) AAV air leak 4) Throttle balance adjustment required 5) TPS setting incorrect (0.52v ) 6) Air leaks ( throttle bleed by pipes ) Lenz Mileage 0000000 M reg 1) Base idle too low ................................. Gary Wilson Mileage 0000000 K reg. 1) Det sensor fault code stored but cleared ok 2) Timing 2 deg retarded 3) TPS setting incorrect (0.38v ) ...................................... Rolandas Mileage 120,660 G reg. 1) Det sensor circuit failed 2) Temp sensor issue / connection 3) Throttle pipe by pass come off...refitted 4) Timing error 2 deg retarded 5) Base idle too low ............................... Welsh zed Mileage 63,771 J reg 1) Base idle too low 2) Thermostat stuck open ....running 67C and 75C with viscous fan held 3) Timing 2 deg retarded 4) Throttle balance adjustment required ............................... Dave GT40 Mileage 0000000 H reg. 1) TPS cables cut...repaired 2) Base idle too low 3) Timing 1 deg retarded ................................. Rata2ie Mileage 000000000 Year H reg. 1) Thermostat stuck open running 68C ................................. 300zx _666 Mileage 0000000000 Year Private plate 1) Throttle balance adjustment required 2) Slow warm up, suspect thermostat slight stuck open ............................ Groover Mileage 000000000 Year K reg 1) Det sensor circuit failed 2) Base idle too low ................................... Vodkashots Mileage 000000000 Year reg 1) Timing 2 deg retarded (cas unit at max adjust) 2) Cambelt poss I tooth out 3)Autobox fuse failed ................................... Andy Isherwood Mileage 00000000 Year Private plate 1) Timing retarded 2 deg ...................................... CKZ 300 Mileage 00000000000 Year Private plate 1) Throttle balance adjustment required 2) Base idle too low 3) TPS setting incorect 4)Thermostat stuck open 66C 5) Noisly cambelt runner Mileage 90876 Year G reg 1) TPS setting incorrect 2) Air leak back of the engine ................................... Jason Farrow Mileage 92,818 Year ............. 1) TPS setting incorrect 0.66v 2) Temps sensor connection bad ................................. Andysxzx Mileage 0000000 Year.... J reg 1) Timing retarded 2 deg 2) Det sensor not working ( ebay model....beware they do not work ) ............................ ????? Mileage 119,901 Year H reg 1) Timing 1 deg retarded 2) Throttle balance required some attention. 3 TPS set wrongly 4) Base idle too low .................................. Andy zx Mileage 124,016 Year H reg 1) Fuel leak, tightened pipes.

Just got back and more than glad to be of help, could not leave a fellow zedder stranded so close by, was a little damp though eh? and those standard wheels look kind of funky :D Jeff TT

Ok matey leaving home now, pick up some wheels from the workshop and be with you in around 1 hour. Chin up see you soon. Jeff TT

Cheers Sandy Jeff TT

Any update on this? does anyone have his mobile number? Jeff TT

Sounds too long that from memory, can check in the morning for you when I get in the workshop jeff tt

Don`t worry Steve all the trim bits inc the wipers have been removed and re-coated so look as new now. Jeff

The triangle brackets you can see are where the issue is, originally they would have had 3 pips of plastic locating them against the colomm these pullaway eventually usually due to the stering wheel been pulled sideways when exiting the car. You will find the nuts still tight so can be confusing why there is movements, what you can do however is loosen the securing nuts and turn the triangle bits sideways to secure the colomm more, not an exact fix but will improve things, if your unsure what I mean I will post some pics for you tomorrow. Jeff TT

Top man! Jeff TT