JeffTT

Yes bang on matey, you can see the oil but not the cause as the back plates and pulleys hide the cam end seals, really needs doing asap! Jeff

Your right of course guys, there was an end piece in the diff, but not the one off the prop! clearly another prop fitted previously had left its cap behind, the issue was though that forcing two caps in against each other had left the coupling out of shape and balance, the second pics shows the irregular shape of the removed cap end from been forced together. Jeff

Here is the prop removed on the floor. Jeff

A routine whilst the owner waited job revealed more work as we removed covers etc, now this is not unusual but to leave the newly revealed issue we felt was a tad shortsighted. So the original job was to replace the two water hoses above the water pump as one had split, there was a slight show of wet oil at the cambelt cover edges, but when removed the amount was extream. The oil was dripping right through the area and was pooling in some areas where it could. As the owner was waiting we was able to show the oil leak in its full glory, unfortunately due to time and other constraints the owner requested the water leak be done with the oil issue to be dealt with later..... the oil saturated cambelt is my main worry. Jeff TT

Ok typical job of propshaft vibration, in fact a particular acute one, however when we removed the prop we were surprised to see a recent centre support bearing, however a closer look revealed a little more..... over to you guys. Jeff TT

Mmm.. well the latest breaker sold with a good engine but needs turbo`s was not well described it turns out, smoking like a b*tch and running only on 5 cylinders was a possibly a turbo issue but following further investigation today Jamie quickly established all was not as it should be.....oh well. Compression value of around 15psi on surprise, surprise cylinder 6! Jeff TT

Yes wait till Ford, Vauxhall, Renault, Honda Nissan etc, etc find out about this, they are going to be livid with their tech guys for missing this gem of an idea. Jeff TT

Never fails to amaze how a flashy blister pack and some cheesy advertising can fool motorists ( mainly Americans ) into parting with $29 for an unproven fuel and performance enhancer for their car, even worse when its on sale for 79p in the UK! ... you would be better off using the money to buy an air freshner. Jeff TT http://fuelshark.com/Default.asp?bhcp=1

Yeh did a seperate deal with IFTY for it. Jeff TT

Yes a real pain, even worse than that is the reverse light switch, you have to drop the gearbox down!! Jeff TT

"how would it work?? You put them between the steering rack and the rod arm to make it longer?? But that would put the tracking out. so you pull the tracking back in and its the same as where you left off with " ................................................................................................................................................ OK it changes the length of the pivoting point (balljoint in the inner tierod) in relation to the angle of the bottom ball joint. If the steering arms stayed completely straight when they were on full lock your explaination would be correct, however they do not, as the lower ball joint and lower arm move in an arc, this is where changing the relative balljoint angle by fitting the washers it changes the amount of steer angle, in some cases the rack stop is removed for max turn, NOT STEET LEGAL THOUGH Jeff TT

Think you misunderstand, the spacers fit down at the steering rack /track rod to extend the amount of lock, drifters use them as it increases slip angle and assists when drifting, nothing to do with the steering wheel position. Jeff TT

Taken from the confused.com insurance site: “If a tyre has a tread of less than 1.6mm it is qualified as an illegal tyre. If the police stop someone with an illegal tyre they will be fined up to £2,500 for each illegal tyre. If someone is in a crash and their tyres are below the legal tread limit, a fine can be issued causing their insurance to be denied.” Taken from direct gov advice site http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/TravelAndTransport/Highwaycode/DG_069870 Driving without insurance Fine: upto £5,000 6-8 points Driving with no MOT certificate Fine: upto £1,000 Taken from the direct gov licence site http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/OwningAVehicle/HowToTaxYourVehicle/DG_10021514 The maximum penalty for failure to display a current tax disc is £200 + back tax Every one of the above could potentially be enforced in your case.....mate don`t do it! How about using a tyre co who come to you, so much easier Jeff TT

Oh well enjoy! Jeff TT

Totally different I am afraid, the manual one is twice as long and has a different drive cog too, second hand only from a broken box I would think, new from Nissan more than £100! whats the issue, very odd for the sensor to fail completely, I did a tech thread a few years ago on how to check them and fix the most common problem too, have pasted it below. Jeff TT MANUAL SENSOR AUTO SENSOR A lot of owners have issue with the speedo, power steering, auto box change etc. All of these are related in as far as they are part of the speed sensor circuit, having seen many owners pondering on if the speed sensor is at fault then take a look at the picture below. The speed sensor is rare in as far as it can be seen to be faulty by just looking at it provided of course you know what to look for. The photo actually shows autobox sensors but the manual box sensor has the same issues. The unit is a small pulse generator, as the cog is turned by the gearbox the stator is turned within the field windings which produces a small ac voltage of around 1 to 5 volts and as the unit is very unstressed there is very little that can go wrong with it. However the unit is held together by the black plastic end cap, this end cap is where it all goes wrong, for reasons unknown the caps start to come adrift as seen in the photo. This loosening of the end cap allows the stator shaft / field windings to move out of line not by much but enough to stop the output been produced. Annoyingly as the cap originally starts to slowly moves out, the shaft end float is still small enough for it to move in and out of the correct position and so causes it to work intermittently. So armed with this information all you need to do if faced with this problem is get the car jacked up and take a look at the end cap on the sensor, if it looks like the faulty one in the picture simply apply a layer of epoxy resin to the edge of the cap and push it back in, yes that simple, no need to even remove it, and you will have one fixed sensor for a tube of glue. Hope that is of help. Jeff TT

I will put a pair in with your conzult connector. Jeff

Main beam bulb replacement is difficult due to the closeness of the wring loom and the headlight configuration the first picture shows the location of the main and the dip beam bulb. To disconnect the wiring connetor you need to squeeze the connector together and pull back at the same time. As taking pictures of the main beam in situ is difficult the following are on a headlight removed from a breaker zed. See in this pic the main beam pins and rubber cover After pulling the rubber cover off the bulb adapter is removed by squeezing the two tabs together at the bottom. Now the bulb and adapter can be removed Pull the bulb from the adapter and replace with new item Once the bulb is mounted into the adapter return to the headlight, ensure the adapter release tabs are at the bottom, now push the bulb and adaptor into the headlight and its should click in, refit the rubber cover push the wiring connetor on, and there you have it. Good luck Jeff TT

H1. Halfords or any good motor factor should have them, will post them pics later too when I get home. Jeff TT

Yes got them done for you today , just writing it up will post it in the morning. Jeff

Clutch problems can have many causes but generally give some degree of warning before total failure but in this case the sudden inability to select any gears mid way through a journey was a little unusual and the most likely culprit would normally be the hydraulics in some way. However it was soon apparent there was a lot more going on inside of the bellhousing and so the box was whipped out and the damage to the clutch was obvious immediately with some of the cover fingers missing, and plate springs floating around too. With the unit removed more bits came tumbling out and the now the plate damage could be seen too, one of the double spings had ripped out of the plate hub. . The exact sequence of events is not definate but it would most likely follow that the plate springs came out first due to plate fatigue and the springs got caught up in the fingers and broke them out. Have seen the fatigue problem before on ACT units from the US, not exactly sure of the make of this plate, the symbol is familiar and it comes from the US so maybe the same as previously seen. The units is several years old but low on miles so still disapointing but having a nice new unit fitted so all good now. Jeff TT

Two options we deal with pictured below, 25% upgrade and then the puck clutch lower down is rated for 400 bhp zeds although it is capable of more than that and does cause a heavy pedal. Jeff TT

Quite rare these days to see a Nissan air purifier fitted and still working, come in on a breaker today. Jeff TT

Yes I know, its like they did that on purpose, if you can wait till tomorrow I will do a photo tech thread of how to do it. Jeff TT

Once the wiring connector is removed the bulb holder has two looped pronges underneath that need pressing together to release from the headlight, agree though they can be a real pain to get out. Jeff TT