JeffTT

Yes bit of a pain best to remove the fuel tank cover for a little more room, but do-able. Jeff TT

Ok this what the abs sensor looks like that you need to change, it is located within the wheel hub and is held in by a 12 mm bolt, the cable is fed around the suspension upright and then goes through the inner wheel arch into the engine bay through a rubber grommit. Look down the side of inner wing under the bonnet and you will see a connector clipped to the inner wing, this is where the abs sensor needs disconnecting, a new one needs feeding though from the wheel side. Good used one £25+vat and £6.5 p/p Jeff TT

He, he pinched the pic of google images!! Jeff TT PS: Bird Got those pics for cam belt static timing if you want can post them up for you with your very own thread!

Yes what you need is poly bushes to replace the worn standard rubber ones, as can be seen in the picture below with these bad boys... fitted to the arms they look like this... Call me at the workshop or pm me. Jeff TT

Ok hate to be a party pooper but you still have some issues going by that diagostic screen details, to be honest I am surprised that no one else has said anything? Here is your pic with issues highlighted. The two issues immediately clear is the value for the aav is to high at 62% this should be 15% and the timing at 23 btdc should be 15 btdc, also down the bottom I cannot see a closed throttle indication although that is a bit blurred so could be there but if not could be a cause of the timing issue. Jeff TT

To save yourself a whole lot of grief and buying un-required tools do the same as said above with soaking with plus gas or similar, then get a pry bar or similar and break off the top section of the sensor, by tapping against it the top metal section will break off and reveal the nut section, now you can get a standard socket on that is sooo much easier and will not round off. Jeff TT

JDM autobox ECU is different to UK autobox ecu as the former has switchable mode ( hold--normal--sport)/ Had alc fitted to both of my auto`s and both reacted differently, my first zed came with one fitted and the box was super slick and fast changing, my second zed I fitted an alc and although was slightly better was not that impressed second time around, and as far as shortening the gearbox life, it is likely it would on a 20+ year old box. Jeff TT

Ok you have described the cause of why camshaft sometimes seize and stop the cambelt allowing the bottom pulley to pull the teeth off the belt, have seen this so many time over the years, usually the front camshaft journel / bearing is trashed as a consequence. In the past to help owners out we have just change the head complete with cams etc and rebuilt and all is fine again, so the problem is with in the head lubrication galleries, so what I am saying is you have a potential seized camshaft about to happen!! the noisy lifters on that side do appear from what you describe as oil starvation, needs more investigation before more damage is done. Jeff TT

Correct. Jeff TT

Yes I did, will be doing a follow up on it in the next day or so. Jeff TT

So whilst the rain was beating down on the roof of the workshop this afternoon I stripped a nice zed for a cambelt service. After 14 years of belt changes I still get the occasional giggle from what I find, a stuck open themostat, well that is par for the course it seems these days, even the incorrectly set tensioner was nothing new but the monkey who was last in here fitted the cambelt back to front!!! why would you even do that? goes against the very core of how to do these jobs and more about lack of attention to detail. Now most belts come with timing marks on and a little arrow to point the belt the correct way, I am guess though this belt has been fitted more than once and upon refitting the second time was switched around. The timing however would have been done most likely by guessing and the result, well look at the cas unit to achieve 15 btdc!! The cambelt been used more than once is contentious as I know other think its ok but in my view its simply not and when dealing with spurious ones even more so, the wrongly set tensioner bears out the poor attention / lack of knowledge. A back to front cambelt is a rarity though and considered worth of a pic or two...enjoy. Jeff TT

Leave the original boost solenoids connected, keeps a level of safety boost protection if detonation occurs and also the boost controller duty / gain can be set at lower levels whilst still attaining good high boost figures gives a quieter operation of the boost controller solenoid. Jeff TT

We hold those in stock on the shelf, genuine UK Nissan part £14 each + vat and p/p Jeff TT

Lucky we had the clutch on sale or return!! Jeff TT

Ah yes see what you mean, I was refering to the single 12mm bolt on a 300zx, but either way works as the hole in the floor is massive! Jeff

So the clutch unit looked ok, but needed removing to be totally sure, the amount if black fibre that fell out was not good. So with the clutch completely removed a close up inspection shows it to be worn and in need of replacement. A nice spankey new clutch ready to fit............MAYBE! As always a phone call to the owner for authorisation to fit the clutch as well as the bearing ( to stop the noise) surprisingly the owner elected to replace the bearing only? so that is was what I did. Box ready to go back in and a box full of bolts later and all done. The 350z now had a very quiet clutch operation, but cannot help thinking a replacement clutch will be a sooner rather than later event. Jeff TT

So this afternoon was spent sorting a 350z with a very noisy clutch operation, the owners brief was to repair the car as cheap as possible. The noisy when depressing the clutch pedal was really loud, but until the gearbox was removed we had no idea of what the clutch condition was so pre-warned the owner we could not be certain until removed and inspected. So there are a few different things when removing a 350x the box compared to a 300zx, such as the gear lever that does not disconnect so the gear knob has to be removed. With the standard one piece carbon fibre prop remove and the flexy Y section on the exhaust the gearbox rear assembly looks a little different again to a 300zx. So as per the 300zx a whole lot of bolts later and the box was soon been lowered down. So now is the first chance to look at the bearing and it was obvious it was badly damaged a quick spin revealed a totally dried out race. Continue .....

Your quite correct there, without an expansion tank any water that exits via the rad over flow will not be recovered later and could effectively loose a considerable amount of water over time. Jeff TT

Good news you found the problem, I wonder who gave you that idea? :wink: Jeff TT

Its all relative though, cheap fuel and but crap wages for the majority of American citizens in recent times, had many,many conversations with guys/ girls in the US whilst on holiday and its not all it seems, great for visiters from Europe though, imagine what US guys think when they come here!! Jeff TT Wages in America, Most of Us are Have Nots Submitted by Robert Oak on October 31, 2010 - 5:42pm There are 150,917,735 wage earners in this country for 2009. That said, 24,315,992 of them earned less than $5000. 50% earned less than $26,261 in 2009. There are only 0.794% of wage earners who get more than $250,000 per year and only 1.266% of American salaries are over $200,000.

Unless disconnected or open circuit a faulty maf will not show any fault codes, I am in tomorrow by the way, busy changing a clutch on a 350z!! Jeff TT

2nd That! Jeff TT

Whats this? Jeff TT

Jack up the car drivers side, get a battery charger or similar and connect the life to the starter motor feed cable from the battery, and earth to the engine or something similar, switch the charger on and press your remote will open, then charge your battery. Jeff TT Argh beaten to it !!!!!!!!!!

Checking the timing via the conZult is a mistake, the conzult only displays what the timing is supposed to be at that particular time given the water temp, air and other inputs. The only way you check what the actual timing is at any time is via a timing light. The change from the previous time you checked it ( was 15deg and now 25deg) maybe because you have an issue with the neutral switch or even the tps if the throttle closed switch is open. The fault you have you said occurs at certain psi of boost could be an issue with either the afm causing fueling problems or with the cas unit causing ignition issues. Before you go any further you need (must) get the timing checked with a timing light, the lightweight pulley should be marked up and if not then you can set it to tdc manually and mark the pulley against the 0 (zero) mark. From there you can start looking for the issue. Jeff TT