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RichardS

Main Committee
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    United Kingdom

Everything posted by RichardS

  1. Quote (posted by Scoops) nude women? and vouchers for bargain booze! LMAO :bow: I can't really think of anything else :rolleyes: :dance: Richard :smw:
  2. Hi all I was in Smiths this lunch time looking at a big colour used car buying guide (I forget which one). I turned to the sports car section to see what it said about the ZX...... ......"true japanese supercar. to sum up in one word......Fantastic...." :cool: They gave it 4 stars. I could only see 2 cars in the same class with 5 stars, the R34 GTR and new Porsche 911 (the 996). The poor old Pork 928 could only muster a mere 3 stars :tongue: Then we knew this all along, eh? :dance: Richard :p
  3. PS James Bond drove one !! :dance: :dance: :cool: Richard :bow:
  4. Hi Geoff I think that's a good idea, mate. I've always loved the Esprit and the V8 is awsome. Lotus reliability is not as suspect as it once was either, if you get a good one. My wife's mate's dad has an old F reg (non-turbo) one which always goes wrong, then he drives it like an old giffer's Rover :o I've driven an S2 (I think, it was a long time ago) turbo and it still ranks as one of the best cars I've driven :cool: Richard :)
  5. RichardS replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    Just to be a bit different, why not try Rover Amethyst? Seen a few MGFs in that colour, it's a bit girly-hairdresser on the MGF (but the MG is a poncy car :tongue: ) but it could look good on a Zed Richard :)
  6. I second Mac's reply :) The pump is meant to have a useful life of around 60K miles anyway, although it will probably be OK for a bit longer. But as a new one costs around £70 you are better off replacing it when the front of the engine is already off for the belt change. If you don't and it goes later you will have to pay for all that labour again, plus new coolant etc. (I didn't know all this when I had my cambelt changed :o , but luckily my warranty paid for the parts and labour to replace the pump :cool: ) Whilst you are in there, replace the two small water hoses from the aluminium pipe (where the temp sensor sits) to the front of the engine (again, these are prone to leaks, but they only cost £10 for the pair), the thermostat and the other drive belts. Prevention is the best cure and it will save you loads of labour costs later :shock: HTH Richard :smw:
  7. Rac

    RichardS replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - Non 300ZX
    I've been a member of both at various times in the last 17 years, currently with the RAC, have been since 1994. I've never had a problem with the RAC, always turned up quickly (never waited more than 35 mins) and sorted the problem out too. The AA fekked me around a couple of times when I called them out, but that was a long time ago. Their service has improved somewhat since then. Personally I think they are as good as each other. It's the other cheapo organisations (Nat Breakdown etc) that I wouldn't touch. I get the full membership (including hotel/courtesy car etc) with my wife included, in any car, driver or passenger for just over £100 - discount from either MBNA credit card or Virgin-one (whoever gived more at renewal) so it works out way cheaper than AA for me. They wanted over £140 for the same cover. Richard :smw:
  8. Hi all I only use the Nissan filter. When I last placed an order with Courtesy, I also ordered enough for the next 2 years services :p I use Shell Helix Ultra fully synth, 5W40. I think it takes about 3.75 litres, because there is always a small amount left in the 4litre can when I collect the car from my mechanic. Richard :smw:
  9. Hi all Following my post about driving my dad's old 127, I try to forget it, but the worst car I ever owned was a J reg Scorpio 2.0 twin cam. It may have been less than a year old at the time, but in the 5 months I owned it, it lived in the Ford garage for 4 of them. Soooooo unreliable. Bloody slow too, I only bought one coz they always looked smart (we're talking 12 years ago, LOL) and were comfortable with loads of electric gizmos. The AA got to know me personally over that time ;) Richard :slap:
  10. Hi Richard These stickers come with the cam belt, so they indicate it has been changed :) I can't read Japanese but I'm pretty sure it is not simply details of tha last service Richard :smw:
  11. Yup, Alex is right. The latest ones are 4.2 V8 and 400bhp (2002 onward) Before that they were 4L and 390bhp. The 4.0 XKR gives almost identical performance to a stock TT - 0-60 in 5.4 and 100 in 14.5 I've been up against one to almost 150 and there was virtully nothing in it - neither of us gained more than a meter..... :dance: If it's the older straight 6 saloon (4L, not V8 say up to p reg) then you'll have no problems. Even the newer XJR may be heavier than XKR coupe, so you may still beat it. You won't be left behind :D Richard :smw:
  12. From my experience (Supra, now Zed), Goodyear eagle GDS3's are the best ever. :cool: Other than that, Michelin pilot sports (but they are pricey) Avons are sh1te BF goodrich were very good in dry & wet, but wore out too quickly Continentals good in the dry, lousy in the wet Bridgestones very good all round too Pirrelli are expensive rubbish. Too noisy and car slid too much in the wet The Goodyears are just about the best - never once lost grip in the wet. They weren;t named best performance tyre in the world by Evo mag for nothing ;) Richard :dance:
  13. Let's just pay some terrorists to hijack a tanker for us ;) If we didn't use it I'm sure they would drive it into 10 Downing Street for kicks :D :rofl: Sorry, I didn't say that. Nor do I advocate such behaviour. In these troubled times, careless talk costs lives :x: :x: Richard :hyper:
  14. ....Not all that fast in stock mode.....? :confused: Sorry Herman, I have to dissagree with you there, mate. How many cars on the road can hit 100 from rest in just over 14 secs in stock mode? Any car that does it in under 20secs is considered quick. Even the light as feck MR2gt takes 19.9 to reach 100. Yes, there are cars with quick 0-60 times but they take an eternity to reach the ton. i understand your point about a chipped one, though. I'm still not ready to try that yet...... :bow: Richard :smw:
  15. RichardS replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - Non 300ZX
    deffo an RX7
  16. Hi all Back when I was 17 (and drove a cool manta ;) - well it was 1987 and they were cool for a few days back then :D ) my dad had an old Fiat 127. I used it whenever my car was off the road. That was the worst car I had use of. It was supposed to be white, but had transformed to a nice shade of rusty brown and red oxide primer patches :o This thing was 903cc and had tyres like a bicycle. I managed to get it up to 90mph (dad still doesn't know why the engine fell out :p ) and found it had no brakes :eek: Still, first gear saved me from death :D :D :rofl: Was a laugh at the time......... Richard :smw:
  17. RichardS replied to a post in a topic in General Discussions - 300ZX Related
    Try replacing the bulbs with more powerful ones. Osram & Phillips do +30% H3s (for a UK car - imports require a minor modification to fit H3 bulbs). Buy them for £14 from http://www.autostylin.co.uk HTH Richard
  18. Hi all I believe from road tests conducted by Autocar/what car etc when the Zed was new that the stock uk speedo was accurate. The tests showed rpm at true 70mph and speedo reading at true mph. Most other cars (read fords, vauxhalls etc - Calibra Turbo reads 78 on speedo at true 70.) can be way out yet Nissans, Toyotas etc are generally accurate. IIRC the 300zx read 70 at 70, it was only 1 or 2 mph out at over 100 too However 10+ years on the road could lead to inaccuracies today, though. I would say unless they have been calibrated (particularly when imports changed to mph from kph) then your speedo would probably over-state speed towards the high end. Say when you are doing over 100, the higher the speed the more the overstatement Richard :)
  19. Anyway.... .....forgot to say to Rich, do as Matty says. Avoid dealers from Brum at all costs :mac1: I remember one called Allied Cars. I drove 100 miles up the M40 to see a met.blue Zed which I was told was in "excellent contition". When I got there it was total 5hite. Paintwork cleaned with wire-wool judging by the scratches, leather cracked and ripped etc etc. Not just a 1-off either, I looked around their premises and all the cars were pants. A55holes wouldn't take no for an answer either, I tried to walk away but the salesman was sooo persistent and desperate to sell a car that he blocked my exit. I had to force him out of my way (then drove away like feck coz there were 2 baboons in the workshop that looked less than pleasant :D ) Richard :smw:
  20. Hi Barry What's the prob with McMinn? When I was looking for a Zed, he had a couple I planned to view but I never got there as I found the one I have elsewhere first. Richard
  21. Can't comment on the 100nx (other than it's a hairdressers car :tongue: ) but the 200sx is 2 litres (s14, anyway - the j-spec s13 is called the 180sx and it happens to be a 1.8litre) Remember the Z31 is also a 300zx (3 litre again) but that has nowhere near the bhp of our Z32s Richard :)
  22. Hi all Like Faisal, I once read that the J-psec manual was 300bhp...... WillieO is right about the Yanks measuring BHP differently - remember the claims regarding their muscle cars? Those Mustangs may have 5 litres but they struggle to reach 200bhp in Euro tests. Nigel, the "300" in 300zx means 3 litres (like 350Z is 3.5, 280zx was 2.8 etc etc) I conclude as SRRAE did, we will never know the truth :x: Oddly with the GTO, though, the early pop-up light version was 281bhp like the ZX yet despite the "gentleman's agreement" in Japan the later one (fixed h/lights) was quoted at 320bhp (albeit in the USA, again ;) ) and the J-spec Poopra was 280bhp owing to smaller tubbies than UK ones At the end of the day, I don't care what BHP my UK zed really is, as long as it's fekking fast :hyper: Richard :smw:
  23. Hi all I posted the link to these back in November, (on the P C P site). They got a mixed reaction then because no-one new how they would actually look, but it is good to see them on a car at last. They don't look too bad ;) Though personally, I think the solid red should be the outer light and the red/white light, the inner. That would look way better IMO With regard to the question about indicators, since you would keep the stock reverse lights, why not convert the white centre ones to indicators with orange bulbs. :D Then again, they may come with this set-up anyway? Richard :smw:
  24. Hi Phil The nearest to lexus style ones I've seen were on http://www.procarparts.com Click alzetta rear lights, then find your car details HTH Richard :smw:
  25. Hi Hi5 Don't buy it!! as everyone says, check out a few first. Now I don't want to start a "UK v import" debate here :rolleyes: (because in general, imports do have lower miles no rust etc - I said IN GENERAL, anyway I have a UK car with low miles & no rust :D ) but there are way too many dodgy import dealers around now. A few years ago 99% of fresh imports were good, genuine cars. Now everyone and his dog are importing from Japan and they don't care what cr@p they bring over. They just clock it and flog it (see how many imports for sale have 54000 miles ;) ) Hence the condition of the one you looked at. Also bear in mind that leather doesn't always last in the Japanese climate, so most imports have cloth. If you buy an import I strongly suggest you get one that has been over here a while - one of the 99% good ones I refer to above. Better still, buy from a forum member as it would have been looked after properly too. Spend as much as you can afford on a good one, rather than skimp and buy a cheap one which will cost you very dear in repairs. Good hunting Richard ;)

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