RichardS

Car is looking good mate - but sorry to hear you may have a BHG....:sad: Not sure how easy it is to do with the engine in situ; but would not have thought you'd need to remove it. I'd still not fancy doing the job though - and would take it to Jimmer myself. Bit of a trek from Scotland to Bristol though!! Good luck with getting it fixed...:clover:

Oh, and I also replaced the air filter cone, whilst I had the nose panel off. The old one was looking a bit sorry for itself; and was probably full of dust from the body-shop.....:wink: …..And finally, after all the coats of Jet Seal and Beading Marvellous, I decided to give the exterior a quick wipe-down with Auto Finesse Glisten (or lip gloss, as we called it when JP recommended we all buy some at the NEC...:lol: ) Good call Joel - it really brought the Zed, Merc and RR up nicely after washing them recently....:thumbup:

I also re-fitted my Z-Thirty-Two double-DIN radio surround, after fixing the crack and giving it a refreshing coat of paint. It's not perfect, but it's a lot better than it was - although I'll probably buy a new one sometime:wink: Again, thanks to Phutumsch, for recommending black bumper paint - the sheen is indeed just right and it retains that "original" plastic look...:thumbup:

I finally fitted the J-spec corner lights I bought from Phutumsch (thanks Andy!!) about a year ago.....! I have kept my UK-spec indicators and side lights; and have used the little LEDs Andy installed in the blanked-off part as supplementary side lights.... I then fitted some big bright LEDs into the J-spec indicators, and wired them in as daytime running lights. I didn't realise, until JeffTT mentioned it, that the relay senses when the engine is on, and illuminates the DRLs....:lol: They then go out, when the side lights are switched on.

Bang on the button as ever Jeff - thank you mate....:thumbup: I was using a DRL relay - and did not realise that it was already equipped to run straight from the battery. I test-wired everything in and you're dead right, it senses when the engine starts up and has a 20 second delay. Mine does not dim with headlights though; it simply switches off the DRLs. Just need to tidy up the power cables and all it done....:cool: I'll post a few pics later:wink:

Many happy returns Tom - have a great day mate!! Richard:happybday:

I have installed LED bulbs to act as DRLs into the previously blank corner lights (thanks to Phutumsch…..) and need a positive feed to the relay, from a circuit that becomes live only when ignition is switched on...... ….Which is why this might be a good idea - cheers Jeff. Although I'd prefer not to remove one and re-wire in another box after all my hard work routing wires yesterday...:lol: All I need to complete the install is a single ignition-on-only live feed to complete. The acc 12v+ supply might indeed be the one Andrew; I presume I can find that from the fuse box....? I don't want to run cables through the bulkhead; too much effort :wink:

Hi folks, I have a little project to finish - and just need a suitable ignition-on live power feed. What under-bonnet (preferably near the front of the engine bay) circuit would you suggest tapping into? As said must be a permanent live with ignition on, only - and one with easy access... Thanks :wink: Richard:cool:

Perfect explanation...…. :lol::biggrin:

Happy birthday Tony - have a good one mate.....:thumbup: Richard:happybday:

I did mate.... But must be drunk, tired or both, because I think I'm missing something...:lol:

Hi and welcome Tim - and good luck with your pending purchase mate!! Richard:clover:

LOL - no! I removed the bulb from the boot light 3 years ago because the alarm kept going off without reason......

Hi folks, I have an intermittent issue with my boot catch - more specifically the circuit for the light/door open warning light. It seems to be earthing badly - or not at all. With the boot firmly shut, the interior light/door open dash warning remain on - or flicker on/off when driving. I have tried inserting a screwdriver into the catch (with the boot open) to mimic the boot being closed and sometimes it goes out, sometimes it doesn't. When I unbolted the catch, the light flickered and the circuit "clicked" with every turn of each bolt. And wiring a separate earth made no difference at all... Should I just get a replacement boot catch - or does anyone have an idea how to fix it... Other than pulling off the wire to the light circuit:lol:

Seconded - explains a lot; thanks Lee....:thumbup:

And Jimmy Saville is still dead, so can't be him..... Tongue now out of cheek (apologies if that offended anyone), there would apparently be a serious breach of patient care in that hospital; assuming there's no other omitted explanation as to the whys and hows…..!

You are indeed correct mate - and the donor vehicle should also be taxed as well. There are a couple of concessions - like if you have owned the donor vehicle for some time; and you have previously had it taxed and MOTd. I think DVLA will still let you put the 'plate on retention, providing the tax and MOT expired within (I think) six months. However you may not be able to do it online in this instance.

Nice work Russ...… :thumbup:

Happy New Year folks - all the best for 2019.....:thumbup:

Yup - AndyP is your man, I believe..... Providing he still does, of course.....:wink:

Nope - just done it online with no issues..... …..So far....:wink::clover:

LOL - but when did this ban happen.... What did I miss...…:wink: Still, some tough competition this year; Nick's is a fine car, albeit I am yet to see it. And we have Gary's and Andy's - both among my forum favourites - so with Joel and Si not in the running, it's time for someone else to shine..... :clover:

Many happy returns mate...…:happybday: Richard:cool:

Whilst Gary and I (along with several other members) might be a little biased, Gary speaks the truth!! If you already have an M5, then I assume the 300zx is a second car. If so, the 300zx (1) is indeed superior to the 350z and (2) remains the better "modern classic" choice - both for future values and that all important exclusivity factor. The 350z is still a decent car, nonetheless; but was produced in far greater numbers than the 300zx (certainly for the UK market) - and thus the 300zx retains that mystery "what is it" factor. Plus it was better built that the 350z - which was conceived during Nissan's more recent years, once the collaborative Renault/Nissan bean counters got involved. Look at the new prices; as with the 370z today, the 350z weighed in at around £27k new; whilst the 300zx was circa £35k new back in 1994. Don't get me wrong, I still like the 350z - along with the 370z today - but having driven all three, whilst the later models might be more adept at handling like sports cars, the 300zx remains a higher quality GT car, much more like the XJS and 928 of the era from which it came. You'd be hard pushed to put the 350z and 370z in the same bracket as an F-type or Boxster today, as they are just not in that league quality-wise. Which is why I have an AMG Merc as a daily drive instead of a 370z - and possibly why you have your M5..:wink:

cheers Chris - list duly updated...:cool: