Smithy

thats not a hard and fast rule though bud, it's a generalisation. It really is nothing simpler than looking at your own engine and identifing how many and which ones, takes nowt but seconds bud ;) cheers smithy

No probs mate, if yer get stuck with owt though let me know, would do yer CP pistons instead cos my listing don't have the JE ones for the N/A's, though am sure they do ;) Cheers smithy

Very worthy cause. payment made by paypal folks. smithy

Look like "work" wheels http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.work-wheels.co.jp/wheels/index/&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=3&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dwork%2Bwheels%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D smithy

Cheers mate ;) Front and rears in stock, at the moment :p cheers smithy

Check yer invoice to see what bits you had replaced mate so as to eliminate other issues, but imo given the cost with labour etc to do bearings, you really need to get the car there or somewhere that it can be heard by the mechanic in person and perhaps investigated further to 100% ascertain the problem. smithy

Only that on the odd couple occassions i have dealt with him, it was like waiting for camels to cross the sahara dessert! after reading just how much stick he gets on TT.net for the same kinda thing, I decided to never use him and I don't :) cheers smithy

TBH mate i wouldn't say that is really low, mine and others i've driven when cold (driving not ideling) are around 60 and when warm it settles down to the middle between 30 and 60, so around the 50ish mark. If your highly convinced it is the pump, honestly OEM does a perfectly good job for Zeds right up to decent high power, those running really really high power then yeah, aftermarket like Toga, but not from Amz, he can be as much use as a chocolate fireguard sometimes :D However if i was in your shoes and you can't or don't want to take it to a Z specialist for a proper diagnosis, see if one will travel over to you if you sort him out some cash ? smithy

No mate, a new stock OEM one is perfectly fine ( as mike said) Of the rebuild kits i've supplied only 2 have had Toga pumps and one of them am still waiting for.......... Headgasket wise, options of Mig wiring the gaskets, copper ringing the block will both allow higher boost and prevent gasket failure. For those wanting metal gaskets though, i have supplied a few sets of Cometic gaskets which range from 1mm up to 1.4mm, a lot less costly than the greddy ones too :) cheers smithy

Andy do what I did on mine which as you know exact same problem. Start engine ( covers off obviously) and stand at the side of the car nearest the pulley you think is leaking, now holding a piece of white paper close to that pulley say around 3ins away, you will see the spray of oil hiting the paper and clearly idenify exactly which pulley and from the front/rear or pulley itself. Hope that helps :) cheers smithy

The 32 GTS-T and the 33 used different calipers, however if your were GTS-t the difference would be minimal, yes am thinking you have GTR calipers, like i said put up a pic and yep we're all talking fronts here :) smithy

well you've got the correct sized discs there mate, if your thinking these are too small, best put a pic up of yer calipers in case previous owner fitted something different that your not aware off.. cheers smithy

Personally I'd add new bearings and oil pump to yer list mate, not expensive items but certainly getting on in years and can prove expensive to replace should either fail, not to mention other damage. I would run approx 18-19psi with that set up :) Oh and dunno if yer running the sport or the Max street clutch, but if the Sport then that will start wearing down sooner rather than later, the Max is more ideal for cars in bigger injectors/Tubs. smithy

Right here mate :) http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=78524&referrerid=119 cheers smithy

For the price yes it ain't bad, but consider the stock are 280 and these are 315, so the smallest increase you can get disc wise for your money. The Brembo discs whilst a good name are the most basic brembo blanks around, once you add the cost of decent pads ( which you should fit really ) and delivery, yer up to 300 quid for the basic kit and 360 quid if using the EBC option. Finally if you did come across some cheap brembo calipers, they would not work with those discs. cheers smithy

Bleedin ell you got to speak with him :eek: am about to give up on spending around 4 grand with him, so next time you manage it, please pass that on bud ! Oh like the new tubs by the way :dance: smithy

Noltec do Eurothane stronger uprated engine mounts bud. OEM though are broken and cracked due to age more than anything else especially when the engine is 1st removed. Price wise, OEM are around the 125 a pair mark and Noltec around the 145 area. smithy

In that case http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/engperf.php 10th item down mate :) cheers smithy

That unfortunately is something i very much doubt anyone can tell you as regards how ANY I/C's perform, 1 thing seldom done is a before and after. Pace have been popular by virtue of threads just like this and you would be surprised how many peeps buy something cos someone else has it but don't actaully know if it performs well. A little search for yer self bud is always best practice and this subject has been mentioned a few times. This thread from 10 days ago will be helpful :) (http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=78340) cheers smithy

Just 1 thing though, the N/A is a 3 rib and the TT BEFORE 94 is a 4 rib, over 94 TT model is same as all N/A's. Just incase you got a bit muddled mate :) cheers smithy

Tis done oh impatient one :) http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=78922&referrerid=119 smithy

Fitted pics :) smithy

You got PM bud :) smithy

Yep ditto, I was impressed with Gregs post ;) but Shunter :smash: smithy

Throttle cable cover that sits ontop on the plenum sweetie ;) Oh and I don't mind Blondes in the slightest, dim or not :D smithy