Smithy

You'll have the codes also because you changed the PTU and teh ECU may see it as a fault. Assuming your temp sensor was cruddy will explain the difficult start and lumpyness. Take it for a drive to burn of the fuel on the plugs or take out the front 4 and clean and see if it improves. Also double check connections are good on PTU and MAF. Smithy

How on earth did you end up with manual cams in auto heads fella? smithy

Correct mate, pistons in both the N/A and TT are the only NON forged part. Given that fuelling is limited on full boost on upped boost cars to No. 6 piston on pre 94 zeds, this is usually the 1st piston to go. 20 years plus of age and just a tad out on fuelling is bad for stock pistons. Forged are cheap as chips these days, stick em in and be done with it. Smithy

Don't see why it was hard. 11B plugs were the preferred when available from the US via a UK supplier, now the ain't so 11c 6's available from sparkplugs.co.uk or MJP on here. Smithy

Even tho the N/A only has two, they are 10 times harder to do, longer and with tee offs, done a few of those before too lol. What ever price it is for N/A ones, TT should be cheaper even with 4 of them. TT ones are real easy! smithy

If you know a metal work shop who work in ally tubing mate, they really ain't that hard to do and more than happy to help with the "how to's" then simply purchase the black couplers. After making around 300 sets in stainless i had thought about doing ally ones and anodising them, look lush.... but then i decided i couldn't be arsed lol Smithy

Soz mate no, it was about 4 years ago i was selling those, not any more.... smithy

Pics is a must when selling these mate, i sold quite a few years ago for 200 quid, but then they were like this smithy

have you got a 9.5 in rim with a 235 tyre on fella? smithy

275-35-18 mate smithy

I've got 9.5 with 35 off set mate. smithy

Z1 mate seeing as wiseco were orginally sourced and sold through the US and Z1 deal more with wiseco than pretty much most others. smithy

Ive got 1 solid adapter bracket for skyline 324mm discs in the garage if yer want it in place of yer seal?, other side is simply opposite and 350Z discs 5mm thinner. smithy

tbh mate hard pipe kits was the very 1st thing i did years ago, stick bends on the ends and the price goes up as more than twice the price of straight couplers. The passenger side is governed by the fuse box, mine were tight and thats using a 45 deg in the middle and it's the middle that needs the bend. I used 4 of 45 deg bends in each 4 pipe kit You'll see this on all other kits out there. Cheapest way to make these kits is from alloy tube polished and formed on a bender, as done in the US, job done! Good luck anyways smithy

Nice mate, but are your outer pipes completly straight?? btw parcel left today. smithy

Everybody is trackable mate. I had a bad experience with the Zed and a guy also called Chris, though I live here on an Island, the internet helped to narrow it down, flew over hired a car drove to his home town and walked the streets, asked in shops, pubs and betting shops lol until i eventually found someone who knew him and they took me right to his house! Funny enough another member on here also called Chris is a good people finder. Oh and your story is sadly not unusual as regards that guy.............. Smithy

Correct mate :confused1: smithy

Code 13 explains why the car wouldn't start, so 1st job is clean both the connector and the sensor connectors so as to ensure no starting problems. For something as minor as a flat spot, i would take a trip over to Zedworld and let them do their normal checks and setting up. In the meantime a pic of your induction kit fitted would be helpful. Smithy

yep it will have cleared the codes, except if a fault still exists, that code will be present after you try to start the car. You can do the check straight after you try to start it, but with just the ignition on. Even if car does start, switch off, ignition on and do check. Smithy

Just do this mate, really is very easy Report back with codes http://www.ttzd.com/tech/diagnostictech.html smithy

Ok in that case for now forget your induction kit or airbox, cos if it won't start neither of those fitted or not will stop it starting. I think you've overfuelled it, fairly easy to do with start stop start. To be sure whats what 1st, simply do a basic ECU diagnostic that only takes 10 mins and should prove a big help. Your initial problem sounded like either the plug on the AFM wasn't right or the induction kit wasn't fitted right and a big air leak then existed or it was the start of a corroded ECU temp sensor, which will now result in a non start if that was the case. ECU check will confirm what. Smithy

Do you mean the car won't fire up or it will fire up and just not run? smithy

Paul give Apex performance a bell for GTR pads, never seen them sold as cheap as this guy and he used to supply me! Ferrodo with those brembo's are pretty good tho.. Yep GTR32 is different to GTR33. Smithy

Same here when fitting my AVC-R boost controller smithy

I made that mistake too some years back when i bought a 1 piece one, wrong length! Suspose it didn't help that the US didn't have 2+2 TT's in the US lol smithy