Smithy

Steve, as far as i've seen and aware UK/Jap spec intake and I/C tracts are the same as are the re-circ valves plumbing, only differences are the about the cooler on a UK, if Mark's fitted, really yours should too, what you hoping to achieve with a piece of silicone if the Bov is sticking out too far and hitting yer mesh fella ? Gotta be said, it may cost more, but sticking any BOV's in the engine bay is far easier and looks well too :nana2: cheers smithy

Looking for engine bay pics showing clearly the hoses coming of the brake Servo area on a Jap spec twinturbo and a N/A, dunno if ABS was an option on em, so all variants if poss please guys. cheers smithy

I have spoken to a company called Hyper SR (http://www.hypersr.com) yeah in the Nwest area,okay as companies go but push the HKS as you can see. They recommended the following mods: HKS front mounted intercooler- NO uprated side mounts soon is more than good enough De-cat pipes- if you don't have de-catts, yes you will gain Iridium plugs- No, NGK work really well HKS EVC-5 Boost Controller- Go with Greddy profec or AVC-r HKS fuel cut defencer- Erm NO ! HKS super power flow air filter- Well it's better than what you got, BUT Apexi is better HKS super SQV dump valve- Only if you want the whoosh noise, yer car has valves already Has anyone used these guys before? - No but heard of them Were they any good? - okay Is what they have recommended correct? NO Is there anyone else you would recommend to do the work instead?- oH YES, Baggins mate at Ztech :hyper: Smithy

I guess it's like many aftermarket items in the US Stu, stricter emmision laws mean they tend to put the words "off road use only" on many products, in some cases even filters... other than that i know of no downsides, my own is done and i know of nowt wrong. smithy

Very sorry Timmy lad, me and the Mrs will be thinking of yer mate. smithy

Jeremy the way it works is like this mate, if you want to retain either the hicas OR the crusise control functions or both when fitting an aftermarket steering wheel, you 1st fit a boss to do the job and there are 2 types, the one in your pic has the cruise functions on the horn push that comes with the boss and the other type has the cruise functions on the side of the boss itself. Mike feeney in the traders section sells these bosses for the steering wheels at around 75-80 quid i think, so best check with him. They work with pretty much any steering wheel out there too. hope that explains it for yer smithy

Cheers guys, RPS sport street will do yer just nicely mate, probably the most used/sold clucth on this forum. Drop me a line for more info, smithy@manx.net cheers

I was in prague last xmas getting married and you start off with the girls like this After a few drinks and if yer brave enough, they pay you :dance: Needless to say am going back later this year to really see how much i can earn :tongue: smithy

It sure is mate yep :smash: yer know what to do too :p just need to know what colour silicone your having for the sleeves and which apexis your having cheers smithy

Started making some more of these twin cone pipes today, took a while to sus how how we did the connection last time of cutting the 3" pipe into the bend, but got there in the end. I will have a couple of these available middle of next week in anyones interested. For the stainless pipework and MAF adapter plate it's £105, if you plan on using Apexis for filters, you will need 2 MAF adaper plates ( 1 each) a silicone sleeve each and couple stainless hose bands, irrelevant of what model apexi it is, the extra is £25 for em both, if you use any other brand of filter, providing it has a 3" rubber neck, no extra plates are required and it's just 105 quid for the pipework. Danny (DTA ) informs me he will do an absolute cracking deal on Apexis for anyone using this twincone pipe set up :dance: cheers smithy

If i receive the boss mid week, it's usualy in the post by following monday mate. cheers smithy

The only place that stocks these spare parts without knowing their correct term, is turbo technics am afraid. Other than that you can put it back to stock and if you got the 5 piece hose set with yer pvc's then 2 of them at least will replace that set up you have, it's been a long time since i seen one fitted so you would have to just look at another Zed to compare which couple of hoses it by-passes, assuming you bin it of course. These kits caused quite some controvesry here some years ago when TT launched them in a bid to cure smoking, for those that worked there was just as many that didn't, so in short either get a replacement float from TT or do away with the lot in favour of all new pvc hoses and valves. Top rad pipe with boss is no probs, all i prefer to have is the brass boss that comes with yer temp gauge, that way it's 100% correct when done. hth cheers smithy

Sounds to me like you have the good ole turbo technics breather set up on your car, i imagine fitted by the previous owner. Does it have a black rubber pipe running from the back of the throttle body to this diaphram which looks like a float and then another rubber tube coming out the other end of it going to back of plenum area ? a pic would confirm. smithy

Erm not quite Willie mate, cold air is forced in through the intakes, the larger the amount, the greater the pulsed voltage reading from MAF to ECU to increase fueling and hence geater power, all be it small on some applications. The idea around 2 cones, which came from HKS some 10 years ago is simply the cones will develop twice as much possible intake of air over the singular having the same effect as one giant cone. So N/A or TT makes no mega difference if yer trying to get as much cold air into the intake as possible. Have yer seen the size of some filters on other makes of cars that are N/A bloomin massive ;) Just one other benefit of the above design is many zeds have suffered in heavy rain due to splash's onto the filter and then into MAF causing hestitation and poor running, this idea avoids this problem. hth smithy

It's the silver pipework in pic mate, think i better knock a few of these up :) Anyone planning to use apexi's will require an adapter plate as apexis are designed to fix directly to the AFM, i can supply these of course :) Other than that any 3" cone within reason will fit. cheers smithy

Hi Jon, i used to (erm still could) the twin cone induction kit, complete with 2 quickshift filters and it was 225 quid all in, the pipework is all in stainles steel as was the base plate, so you could have a polished version easy enough, am just about to do another set for a member here, however without me supplying the apexis. Can do you just the pipework too if you like no probs, however am thinking about doing these in alloy to make em more affodable as there was definate torque increase with the 2 filers rather than just one. mail me smithy@manx.net if you want any more help, cheers smithy

Steve, the pipework on mine we manufacture ourselves, sold quite a few of these in the ole cybercraft days, i just replaced the filters with a pair of apexis a few month a go. When i went from the single cone to the dual there was noticeably an increase in torque and ran real smooth. On the powerflows, imo these are prety rank, the back boxes are really good but the pipework is an inferior metal, it is not full stainless and often rusts, seen quite a few systems with some bad creases in too, which ain't good. The equipment powerflow and their distributors use for bending the pipework will ONLY bend the pipes they use because it is softer than standard stainless. If yer want gaurantee of quality with the knoweldge it will last, mongoose it is :smash: cheers smithy

I liked the Apexi filters so much, i fitted 2 of them :nana2: smithy

Martin, any chance you can do the centre console area next ? that looks a pain in the arse to do and it's next on me list in a couple of weeks. good lad smithy

Cheque arrived today mate thanks, all being well me fule line bits are here tomorow and will send em both out then. Just let me know when yer ready on the GD stuff, cos when those prices were put up on the website it was a different exchange rate, some things do get better see :nana2: cheers smithy

Chuffin ell mate what yer having that costs that much to ship ? don't forget customs duties are due on the shipping as well :cry: cheers smithy

Now yer know why i sell his gear over here mate, GD has done his homework and can back up all his claims with the RR results. http://www.smithys-place.co.uk/300zx_products.htm Am using the GD dump pipes and full Zorst system, couldn't quite afford the manifolds :cry: cheers smithy

Cheers for all the info mate, don't suspose you found anywhere though who takes a sample of fuel of yer and tests the "Ron" rating ?? ta smithy

If i wanted to have a sample of petrol tested for it's octane rating, anyone know how i'd go about it ?? cheers smithy

okay here's my thoughts on the viscous/electric fan ideas. Uptil the mid 90's the vast majority of all makes of cars ran a viscous fan with an electric safety fan, years went on and they turned to no viscous fan, just an electric safety fan that cut in when things got too hot and relied on the cars intake of cold air etc to keep things cool and thats how most cars are today. In doing this electric fan upgrade it is the excat same principal... I know of no one here who runs this set up with after market temp gauge to give accurate feedback, though Stuart (smw1)) has the set up, dunno if he's runing yet. I have the set up, though not fully installed. Numerous tuners worldwide ditch the viscous fan in favour of an electric one which ONLY cuts in when temps are getting up BUT before the safety fan cuts in, it is not designed to flow all the time like a viscous, so the fact it's flow rate is lower is not really relevant. I've done this very upgrade on 2 previous nissans with kits supplied by SE nissan, all worked well and the new electric fan only came on a few times in a year. So providing the new electric fan has a temp sensor to activate it at say around 85 and you run an aftermarket temp gauge, YOU will know how it compares to the stock. Ideally someone using an aftermarket temp gauge now is best to give before and after readings. As for the guys in US, like anything anywhere, for every one who says something ain't good, theres more saying it is. Oh as ever am happy to be corrected by those in the know or have experience :bow: cheers smithy