SRRAE

You cant. Only pics, zips and docs will attach. Try uploading it to your rides section and then put a link. Stuart

That is one problem with importing a Z. You dont know its history. Most people get the cambelt changed when they get an imported Z just incase. Its either a few hundred now or a few thousand if it snaps. The writing on the door hinge could be anything we really need to see it and even then may not know what it is. Some cars put the tyre pressures there. As for the MOT, Japan doesn't have an MOT as such, but they get taxed large amounts as the car gets older. You are better changing the tyres as all Japanese tyres are not UK legal. They are not tested with European standards and if you have an accident a picky insurance company could pick up on it. There is no real preference for make of tyre, just try to stay away from the no name budget tyres, but if you have no choice (We all go through time when money is thin) dont go flooring it, as most tyres are not designed to take 300bhp. The oil pressure sender is notorias for being faulty. Saying that most of them are about 10 years old, they dont work forever. Nissan will charge you £80 just for the sender, and I dont know if that is Inc VAT. Most people buy aftermarket gauges and use that, as they are cheaper and more accurate. A good gauge will cost £40-£50 and you should get everything with it. A replacment sender for an aftermarket gauge will cost you £10 max. I suggest you get a gauge or replace the Nissan sender as oil pressure is important to see. I also suggest you do an oil change on it as soon as you can. You dont know how long its been in there and most Z owners like to change the oil about every 3,000 miles. Some go 5,000 miles some change it every 1,000. As for which oil to use, there is no correct answer. Use Full Synthetic or Semi Synthetic. Most people here try to get Castol RS 10-60, but its hard to get hold of and expensive. But again, its a few quid now or thousands later. This oil is particually good because the W10 is good for UK weather and the 60 is needed because of the hot engine. I dont understand it that well but that is the very basic view. It is very important to allow your Z to cool down after EVERY drive. Sit in your car and leave it idleing for a min to allow fresh oil pass through the turbos, before turning it off. Turning off the engine too soon could cause the oil to clog up on the turbos. This is why we use Full Synthetic it doesnt clog as easy. To help keep your Z in good condition try not to drive it in winter as the salty roads will eat throught the car. Japanese imported cars dont tend to come with underseal on as they dont use salt on the roads there so there is no need to underseal. If there is underseal it is usually a very thin layer. Have a look and maybe get it re-sealed. A good weekly jetwash under the car in winter wont go a-miss either to wash off any mud which is holding the salt. Make sure you get inside the wheel arches as mud tends to collect under the lip. These are really the things you need to do to help keep your Z healthy. Change the oil regularly and with good oil. Wash your car particually underneath and wheel arches, which really are basic maintance procedures for all cars, but its more important to stick to it with the Z. They are high performance and getting on a bit. Hope this helps a little Stuart

Front Fogs? The best way really if you can afford it, is to buy Japanese Z foglights and side lights and use them. Japanese fog lights go where the UK side light and indicators are. The lights on the side on a UK Z are false where Japanese ones use them for side and indicators. The easiest and best looking way is to install a Japanese light setup. Stuart

You can search for all posts of his and see what he has said. Maybe something about his car there.

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There has been big debates about this. One argument is if Slick 50 is so good, why dont oil companies put it in their oil when they ship it out. The reason is they do. Not actually Slick 50 but they put their own products in to give the same results, so people on here dont tend to use it. I doubt it would cause those problems. Over filling oil usually blows oil rings, seal and gaskets. Stuart

The best £25 I have spent for my Z. Its great. I reckoment people get this. Stuart

I dont need RAID but I have 3 HDDs and all 4 IDE ports used up so RAID is the better option. I just gone out and bought a new Asus A7N8X-Deluxe motherboard reinstalled and everything is running lovely :D But its £80 I didnt want to spend in the first place :( Got nice Serial ATA though. Nice small cables. :D Stuart

Personally I think it is that too now. It started of getting the blue screen of death and something about IRQ errors or something. I also noticed that the computer, when booting, would stop and start then, so its not a software problem. I think its a new Motherboard now, but I need RAID, but all new boards are Serial ATA Raid which means buying IDE to Serial converters for about £11 each. More costs. Unfortunatly the AMD as we know it is nearing its end as the Operon is coming out so the new motherboard wont see much action :mad: Stuart

Hi Gio, Yeah I have the latest bios and I even flashed it again just incase, I have also put the default settings on with no difference. Stuart

What do you guys think? My computer is still doing that stop go thing where my computer would stop responding for a few seconds and then carry on, but its not as bad as it was. A few viruses where found on my computer and where cleaned or deleted but since then I have formatted (low level too) my discs and installed Windows about 5 times and every time the same thing happens, even on the first boot up after a fresh installation. I have also taken out all non-essential components such as network cards, Zip Drive, Floppy and one of the CD drives and I still get the pausing problem. I have swapped my memory too and it still does it. I have also tried 2 different CPUs and both have the same result. Could it now be my motherboard? Its looking like some sort of timing problem. Do you think this could be the problem? I dont want to go out, buy another board only to find the I have the same problem. Stuart

I think the size remained the same but the connection for the injector rail changed about 1996

I think they are 360

Are your alloys clearing the brake caliper? It could be catching. You could also try cleaning your brakes with some brake cleaner spray. My car makes the ticking noise after I change the brake pads, a quick spray and wiggle the brake pins (To make sure they are seated correctly) and it went for me. Was your car making the clunking noise before you changed your wheels or is this another thing that occured after you put your new wheels on? If its after, you had better jack up the car, get under it and see if the wheels are touching anything when you turn. They shouldnt but if you got the wrong offset wheel they could, which would also contribute to the wheel noise. Stuart

Who's planning on going this time? I may go if there are a few of us. I take my camera there too. Stuart

Whos going Mascot tomorrow? Was the last one any good? I may come up., Stuart

Take the centre console off. 2 screws at the top corners of the console, also 2 screws behind the thin panel above the top din. When the screws are out pull it towards you. My be a little hard as there are clips at the bottom and about along the side bout the same level as the bottom din. After taking off the centre console you will notice 2 screws where the centre console meets the part you want to remove. Unscrew the 2 screws. Take out the ashtray and take out the screw in the top corner. As I remember, that is it, it should lift off. You may have to unclip the boot for the handbrake and gear lever. Stuart

Have you not tried just tightening up the clip? Or if its split, cutting the split part off and then clipping it back on. If this does work you should bleed your clutch anyway now as there is probably air in it already. Stuart

I use the Auto Gylm and I think it is great, but like David said, any car rubber treatment will do it. Try get one which cleans the rubber rather than just paint over it. Apply it to all your seals as it will help stop your T-Tops leaking. Mine used to be really bad but after a year or regular treatment (Once every 3 or 4 months) the leak has almost gone. Stuart

A 100x100 sized jpeg should be fine. Make sure you have it setup as a JPEG. Stuart

A good induction will give a little performance gain and will will make the sound a little beefier. YOu could also decat your exhauts but it is possible it will cause your turbos to leak after a period of time. This upgrade will make the sound of the exhaust deeper and will make your turbos spin up quicker. Stuart

Isnt some one trying to get a APEX'i induction group buy going? They are said to be the best induction for filtering and performance gains. The worst for filtering was the HKS which was very very poor in tests. Stuart

I dont know of any people who use them on here. The turbos are hard to get to so adjusting it would mean getting under the car. I think boost jets would be better personally. Stuart

Define manual boost controller. You talking about an electronic one? Or the ones with an adjusting screw which changes the waste gate settings?

Is this the electric fan or the viscous fan? If it is the viscous fan, european Zs fan is larger by about 30% (According to TT.net) and offers better cooling. Many American Z owners actually change thier fan for the larger European one. If its the electric one. How much was it? With my experience its not cheap. I dont know if there are any advantages with it being metal and ou struggle to see it anyways. Stuart