damien

ahh i see. i was checking because it doesn not officaally say S2 piggy back.. i dont want to buy it. plug it into my car and only find it doesnt plug into the S2 PTU that i have bought but not fitted (still running S1 PTU)

yes but the plugs that go into the S2 PTU (which i have just bought used from member) are different to S1. i want the S2 PTU loom so that i can plus the "normal" ends into the system and the PTU ends (which are different to s1) into my used S2 PTU

that one is for ptu s1?

ok will do :cool:

i have what appears to be the old loom sticking out either side of the PTU and a diagram how to wire it in to my existing loom however i was told it is simpler getting the loom that goes from the car to the PTU S2 and plugging it straight in

i have the PTU already... not the loom :-)

ok i will do.. how much is coolant from the garage if i need some?

also if i am driving on a fast road and have driven a bit harder the fan can come lock in and start whirring away.. even if i have been going at 80mph the fan can sometimes stay on after i get to the end of the road.. i would of thought with all that cold air rushing in the front the engine would keep cool enough for the fan to uncouple..... come to think about it i now have a front mounted intercooler... can that stop the engine cooling down at higher speeds as it is in the way?

does the coupling need replacing? also if the revs are high will it do long term damage to the fan? soudnds like it doesnt like spinning that fast lol.

hmmmmm.. so the vicous fan is the noise...... how comes i cannot hear it normally but when i accelerate in traffic or after driving in the heat? it is possible it is getting hot however it was new (might be as it is hot now) and so worried me

started car to go work as usual.... car drove fine until i got 5 mins down the road. i went to accelerate and the revs dropped to almost nothing.... it finally rised and i went to accelerate again to see if it would happen again.... it kept doing it for 5 minutes and eventually it stalled. i started her up and pulled intoa side road. reveresed to turn around (no dip) went to pull out of road and it was fine..... seems wierd but what causes the revs to dip like that and stall? i drive an auto too, which can be embarrasing. someone actually laughed that i stalled an auto

nope. only after a, driving it a bit more harder than average driving b, being stuck in traffic for more than 2-3 minutes The gauge (when it is not at the lowest it goes) reads just short of midway and if i hear the fan coming one when i rev i take it easy, shove heaters on full heat and find a long stretch of road to go easy on, by the time i get to the end of the road and start driving again you cannot hear teh fan until a or b is done again. just thinking that it is related to the temp sendor or the ecu temp reader (the plug i changed)

do you reckon my high speed split second engine missing is related to this PTU (possibly failing) or to my boost leaks i am trying to find?

ok so after driving for 15 minutes my other fan comes on and all of a sudden the car has a louder whirring (sounds like a fan) that gets louder with more revs. If i go on a long road and drive easily the noise eventually goes until i get stuck in traffic again. A few weeks ago i did change the temp sensor plug (the one on the left on the front) as the other one was taped and falling off. Before i changed the new plug my temp gauge would keep cutting out and coming back on so my car would read med temp to freezing cold in split seconds. It stopped for a bit however it has started doing it again... is this related to teh plug i changed or the sender? Also would the fan that keeps coming on or off (like it is overheating) be tied into the same problem with the plugs? i don't have access to a pc car scan (to read temp) for a bit until santa is back so wondered what to do next when it gets hot?

yes i have been there before :-) see i bought a second hand PTU on here that needs soldering into the loom however i was told it would be simpler to get the loom from mjp and nissan which has the new plugs that will fit my PTU and plug into the system on the other ends. Unfortunately i cannot find on ebay and thought as nissan was local i could get it sooner. i'll call MJP

Rang glynn hopkin (nissan chelmsford) and asked for the Series 2 PTU for my 300zx. He said there will be multiple choices. he is glad to help me locate the part however as mine is an import he will not understand the japanese on the import parts. What he said is "if you can find someone with a japanese chassis and has S2 ptu as standard then i can use that chassis number to find the part number and help you locate the part" Obviously i can understand anyoen giving engine chassis a bit worried so what i thought is.... if someone does not know the part number i need can they ring up glynn hopkins. speak to parts department and give them the number so he can find the part for me. I have rung them serveral times before and it sounds like there is only 1-2 guys there. If you explain to them that a member is tracking a S2 PTU loom for a import 300zx and that you have contacted them to provide help. this would help me out alot. I can then ring up after and ask for them to order whatever part number needed is. I would put the phone number down however cosidering the scams these days i think offering a numbe can sound dodgy and therefor locating the number yourself will "hopefully" make the caller feel more secure cheers all

p.s hope your trip is going well.:)

i went to that guy and he measured them and supplied :-)

yeah it is the same on the other side. i did think why it has a loop when other peeps 300's don't. those two pipes do absolutely nothing now lol. i bought 28 clips lol so if ya want some then you can have them :-)

result.. picking some up now .. how many yuo think i need? i have asked for about 20

brilliant. ill giev them a bell now as i am finishing work

ok matey :-) well i am still waiting for the vac lines to come but i still don;t know where to locate the jubilee clips... i have googled for them but everywhere keeps trying to sell pipes with them :-( i'll have to pop into a plumber of something

legrath i edited my comment on the +7 turbo... IF my reading is accurate i am running slightly higher boost? i do have boost jets in. and as to yassa, ok that sounds better, in this case maybe it is not a boost leak then? maybe i have another problem which gives out fro a second under high load

no worries bud :-)

ok that sounds ok then. well if i can hear a whistling how comes my car still accelerates really well lol.... ok so if i drive hard for more than 5-7 seconds my car misfires for a split second and the boost gauge drops and starts to work its way back up. If i throttle it hard for about 5 seconds then reduce the Psi (by lifting my foot off a bit) to say just short of safety boost i don't get any hesitation. This (with the whsitles) makes me believe it is a boost leak that gives out after so much pressure (standard psi) However how come i can run at full (standard) psi for those 4-5 seconds without any problems? maybe it is not a boost leak and the fuel/air mixture is incorrect at higher speeds? So santa hooked it up on conzult (free) and noticed my idle was reading wrong.. he set it to 0.42 (i think this is right) and he tightned vac and fuel hoses and i noticed that my car no longer smells of fuel on idle... we took it for a run and it still done it (although i get an extra line (indicator) of boost on the gauge. No errors from Conzult (full version done from another mate) and no codes on ecu. ALl of my injectors are firing and coil pack connectors seem to work however could these be the culprit at higher speeds? Or is it a case of "they either work or they don't"? i can't get round this and the only thing i have to go by at the moment is a boost leak (unfound) however he did say that the existant jubilee clips are not holding as much now as just spin after being tightned so much. any ideas or do you think a leak is the culprit for the 1 second hesitation at higher ends?