jock

I'd be up for this also :)

Give me a call bud, dont really want to be putting my address on a public forum. Cheers :) 07812-586102

lol, That was a bloody nice motor, fair cop :)

its not actually an "mot" fog light switch unless there is some visible indication that it is on

Alright bud, Ryan spoke to me about it, yes I have one, call it 25 + postage. let me know

good write up on TT.Net

just changed my NA to a TT, 36, no ncb (all used on main car), no limited mileage, any mods (no need to declare them) parked on driveway in london postcode. NA cost me £336 with business use. To change to TT cost me ................................£10.49. Quote me happy? I nearly had a **** :)

I had longlife on the NA, and thinking of getting them to sort the TT, have to keep on top of them a bit, but good stuff. And you cant really argue with T304 stainless and a lifetime guarantee :)

not difficult to do, if you have any mechanical capability

No reason why you cant do it, if you keep the rear subframe and diff off the NA, then it is basically an engine/gear box change and some bits like intercoolers (with the NA rear end, you can junk the hicas and keep the NA power steering set up) Will be a fair bit of work, but not as much as converting the NA engine to a TT

do a search on batteries and you will pick up info. I used a 065 model and it worked fine in my NA, dont know if the TT requires more power

The box after the cats is, I believe, a balance box for the two pipes. Dont know if you need it or not, cant see why you should

C02 because it is pressurised, if sprayed on or around your intercooler will cool it substantially. (remember the fire extinguisher, where it says dont hold the black plastic horn? cos it will freeze your fingers off ?) cooler charge = denser charge= more air/ oygen in charge. Never heard of propane being used, tho if it is under pressure will do the same thing, but is highly flammable and I wouldnt want if being sprayed anywhere near my engine, but i am funny like that

They are held on by clips either end, and the seams are folded over, be careful when/ if you take em off, there is insulation in there and at best its dusty shit at worst may be some form of asbestos. Let the spanner monkeys do it for you :)

the covers on my cat rattled like that for a while, it was rev specific too, I cut them off :)

what bike you got roy? Wont be at bolneyt this year got family do in glasgow :(

Phil, you can cut those sensors off (they go up through the floor to a black box, which sits under the centre console behind the handbrake, you can remove that too if you like.) You can also take the exhaust further than that by taking out the AIVs (when you are under the car, just in front of the cats there are pipes coming out of the exhaust (one each leg) which join into rubber pipes, you dont need those either and it make sa tidier job of it. None of the above will negatively affect the performance of your car. I have run a 90 jap spec NA for a year with both removed and, until I starteed to break it for parts, it was the most powerful NA on this forum. As for noise , if he knows his stuff he can tune the pipe. But by the time you have taken the cats out and less restrictive back boxes, it will sound a lot better anyway

Try adding a flushing oil, it is very light oil.Follow the instructions carefully, IIRC you should not drive the car whilst you have it in the engine, it will lubricate the engine while not under load, but will not handle load. It may dillute whatever is causing your oil to gunk up, and allow you to clean all the old oil out. This may reveal the issues that someone was trying to hide tho.

have you tried cleaning the calipers and changing the brake fluid on your standard set up, you will find it improves the performance markedly

been doing my own business for 3 years now, even when its bad its better than working for someone else. So true about the money. If you donrt seperate your money from the companies money, it will go the way of the pear. Best of luck mate and lkike mark, any help I can give.

only way I could think of to make oil go that way is to heat it so that the lighter "oils" in the mix, distill away, but if that is what is happening I would have expected the engine to seize. Water in the oil will cause it to emulsifiy, and it will be white and creamy. However, there is an old trick to sell a dodgy car (with a noisy engine for instance) of adding either porrige oats or some tights into the oil, the oats turn the oil into a very thick sludge, the tights beak down and coat the engine in a very fine layer of nylon sludge, both quieten down a noisy engine. When did you buy the car, and when did it last have an oil change?

Just below the bottom edge of the window there is a straight fold in the door, front to back this is 53.5 inches. HTH

car b would win, because A has a considerably greater unsprung mass, and (as people have said) the amount of energy used to start the wheel rotating would be grater, so i B would accelerate faster. When both cars have reached their "top speed" the energy required to move them would be much the same. When time to stopping comes, agaiun due to rotational mass car A would take longer to stop, and so would have to decelerate earlier. Slow to accelerate + same top speed + slow to decelerate = LOSER

doesnt seem a bad thing if the data isnt good enough to prosecute. Just like an extension of the gaps between the white lines changing at a hazard

go lovely with your coat :)