groover

Ok just read the diag mode and went out again and here are my numbers 15 press auto 49 press auto 0 press auto 50 press auto I found pressing the fan buttons did something but i havent researched the meaning f that yet

Just been out and mine read 15 with a dash under it and under that the demist symbol, pressing the fan buttons seem to go through various numbers and settings and pressing the auto button changes it all again. I havent read the diag mode yet so dont know what it all means yet lol

Just to let our members know that in our ongoing quest to improve and add to the Tech Faq section, we have added some extra sub categories. Nearly all relevant threads have been re- categorized including some that were to be found in the "How To section" So for eg: everything lighting, interior or exterior is in one place and so on. I will be searching for more of Jeff's tech tips to add to the categories making it easier to find what you are looking for, and any info, pics or write ups you might have that would further enhance the section, let me know or post up here. Cheers Graham

:whistling:

Definitely no power from it, as i say it lit for a second then nothing lol

You are right its 7.7 litres When you get your new box there should be no oil in the torque convertor as it was removed from a car, it only holds fluid when in situe in the box in the car.

3.5 litres http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.288

NA clutch from MJP in the traders section a twin turbo as mentioned is not a direct fit and you would be back to square one with the garage trying to fit one.

Got mine today cheers Andy, but when i tried the invertor it lit once then nothing, i used a 12v power supply on my bench so may have been too much for it, however i think i have a spare somewhere :thumbup1:

The temp sensor code should clear, i would have thought the knock sensor would clear once its telling the ECU its not shot, but you can clear the codes on scantech.

just behind the headlamp on a bracket

I bet you are frustrated as hell lol, good plan to go over all the connections once more, the plugs in the drivers wing behind the headlight is a good place to start :thumbup1:

No voltage in neutral is normal, when selecting gear it will raise the revs slightly and advance the timing to 20deg so would require voltage to do that. The sensor in the first link selects gear, so once drive is selected its down to the other parts of the box to do their bit. Give Jeff another call to recap what you have done, there is bound to be something in his extensive zed brain that can be tested or has been missed, however if not, then it does look like you may need to change the box.

Ok, TPS needs to be no lower than 0.44v-0.45v, mainly for gear changes in the auto, but also the throttle body is now telling the ECU its closed more than it should be, your main problem appears to be the temp sensor, check the connector first for corrosion, the resistor you need for the knock sensor is a 1mega ohm, but the knock sensor wont be causing the idle issue. The ECU will be taking its reading from the temp sensor to adjust fuel and air accordingly, if its duff or bad contact on the connector then its fighting a losing battle. What was the base idle reading? The timing will show 15deg as thats what the ECU is telling the laptop it needs to see, but you will need a timing light to make sure it is at 15deg

:lol::lol:

Accessory first turn of the key to power the cig lighter

Happy Birthday Dave, have a great day :thumbup:

Is this the fuse you changed top row?

Jesus you can buy another zed for that last invoice price nowdays lol

Thats always the hard choice to make and has to be financially viable, sure you could stick a secondhand engine in there and it will be fine or you could still end up with problems. If you can get another engine cheap enough, its worth doing and as you say you will have time to rebuild your old one. I would be inclined to buy another zed cheap like one recently sold on ebay, engine was good, body was shot and probably cost you as much or less as another engine.

Yes not a problem, just not as lively as it might be once set up correctly

Yes ive done it too, but you will need the rear seat down and the pass seat forward the back tilted slightly

You will need to set the base idle again, if you use consult you wont need to take the connector off again and you are looking for around 15% air idle, also check the TPS 0.44v- 0.45v closed throttle.

I would have thought swapping the subframe would be yes, the car body and structure is the same for both

You dont see that much of the restoration though, i would like it to be a little more hands on rather than the format it is. Classic car rescue is another one i watch, you get to see more of the work involved, but i wouldnt want to win the car at the end of the show after Bernie has had his hands on it :lol: