groover

If you put an N/A cluster in a TT you wont have the boost guage, replacing the speedo board, ie remove the 4 screws on the back of the cluster, you can replace the speedo module but you will need the TT clock face, to view the boost guage, if that makes sense

here you go http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/3/1257063/1257063#msg-1257063

They are the aiv tanks, if you have decatted, you wont need them, they are to introduce cool air to the cats to make them run more efficiently. The link below gives you the details. They are on both sides, inside the wings http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/137858.html

It sounds like the clutch release bearing, did you not replace it when you had the new clutch plate and flywheel?

http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.202

Hi Mark, hope you had a good holiday. Coilovers with the pods, again no rush, but just incase you thought you might have boxed it all up and sent it. Cheers Graham

What about, mirror finish film, used for car windows, thats probably what you meant anyway by the chrome coated film, it will let the light out well but you wont see the leds through the lens when off. if the leds didnt seem bright enough for the sidelights then a less wattage resistor can be used to reach the desired effect

I get what you mean, it will be a case of trial and error on that one, possibly a frost filter lighting gel, i used some for the auto selector so that you couldnt see a point of source.

not at all, but thats where the possible cutting out of the rear light moulding comes in, if you cant get the board far enough away from the diffuser. I found that with the reverse light lense at least that the moulded part of the bulb holder as it bowls out ends up only a few millimetres away from the lense making placing the board onto the complete contour of the lense not possible without losing some plastic. This may not be the case with the rear lights, i will take apart a spare pair i have here to see whats possible. And off topic, by the way i did some pods for transmandan in white and i have to say they looked pretty cool, more of an updated stock look but crisper.

anything is possible, i just need to work out the resistence of the rear light load total and work out the resistor to mimic it. There is a resistor to stop the indicators flashing too fast, so thats do able

The ecu thinks that bulbs have blown because of the lack of resistance. The dash warning light would come on when you touch the brakes or when the lights are on. I have found that using this method, which by the way isnt my own method, its suggested when i bought the rear leds works really well. I dont have any vid yet, but they are the same as mario's, i have some pics, but i will try to get some video later.

The lights wont appear duller than stock, the problem is with even distribution through the diffuser that the reflector helps the bulb to do, brightness wont be an issue, not seeing the dots of the source is the issue to overcome

In a way, lets say for instance you have 50 leds on your pcb, they should have the 12v/470 ohm resistors on the board so that all 50 leds light up. Now forget the 470 ohm part, thats just an example and depends on how they are wired. The 33watt resistor inline with the sidelight feed will light up all 50 leds. The 33 watt resistor acts as a choke to stop the full brightness for sidelight use. By connecting the brake light feed to the leds after the 33 watt resistor all 50 leds will light up at full brightness. thus giving you the 2 stage effect you are after. I have done this to my rear leds (6 pot venoms) and works perfectly. You will also need a separate resistor for the indicator leds so they flash correctly and you will need to take out the light out bulb in the dash.

You can have as many leds as you want as they will have their own resistors either in series or parallel, the 33watt resistor is a separate item and is connected inline from the feed to the sidelights which dims them to the right brightness for sidelights and the brake light feed without a resistor connects to the same live feed to the leds, so in short 2 feeds to the leds, 1 with the resistor and the brake light feed without.

Hi Si Re: dispersion, the bulb utilises the reflector at the rear of the light to help project the light evenly across the lense. If you place the pcb board directly behind the diffuser, you have to rely upon the leds doing the work, so if they are too close to the diffuser, you will see the dots, so by drawing them back away from the diffuser you will see amore even light. By using a 33watt resistor in line with the side lights and the break light feed direct to the leds with no extra resistor, you will get the correct effect of sidelight/breaklight without the need to over populate the board with extra leds. Cheers Graham

Your hids wont be on when you flash during the day as they will need to be turned on at the pod switch. The relay mod, just stops the hids going out when the headlights are on and you flash or full beam. I hope this makes sense, i know what you are after and doing the mod will do that, the only difference, was the fact you have a uk car with the dip/dim module.

Hi Si Probably not the answer to your question, but my thoughts on the subject. The smd leds(or micro leds) are cheap as chips but cannot be soldered with a normal iron and with out magnification as the terminals are tiny. There is a soldering system available to them but i havent had the time to source properly. Wave soldering would be fine if you could find a company to do them, they are generally set up for mass production of specifics, although there must be some small electonics firms around to offer this service. I tried something similar in converting one of the reversing lights to fog using leds on a pcb board, my findings as follows: you need the pcb an inch or so away from the lense, otherwise you see the dots of light and with the way the back moulding of the light housing is you cant do it without cutting away most of the plastic to get the distance. You would also need to cut away the plastic moulding to get the depth to be able to cover the complete contour of the lense. Wiring the reds as a 2 stage is straight forward, getting it to look right, which is what you are after is the pain imo. And you would need hundreds of leds to do the job The smd leds are the same forward voltage just in micro size, i bought some blue ones, they come taped to a strip and are so small that i decided not to bother using them until i had the right system to solder them. It will be good to see any suggestions or progress on this. Cheers Graham

:bow::bow::bow::rofl:

Hi Maz This link should help, it has pics also and although its for a left hand drive car, its the same system of removal. Also dont forget to remove the 4 little bulbs at the bottom of the dash, which act as a sort of front wash. http://www.zmods.org/index.php?page=dashlights HTH Cheers Graham

Found a better link,quick 5 minute job. This is what i meant by grounding lol http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.348

When you use your flash, ie during the day the HId dips wont be on, the way im lead to believe it, is that by grounding the dip bulb, it just stops it going off when you flash, with the lights on at night. I could be wrong, but thats what ive been told, hopefully for those who have already done the mod will post up.

The conversion docs are supposed to be the correct way but, the easiest way to do it is to ground the dip beam bulb to the chassis, that way it stays on when using the high beam.

Here you go hope this helps

HI bud Its just paypal@300zx.co.uk Hope this helps