groover

Yep its the chime box, its attached to the bracket that holds the top of the dash in position

There have been a few write ups on dash led conversion, this is an update to previous posts or threads available, trying to achieve the best and most even coverage is the goal

You dont need seperate leds for the side and brake light leds, you would use a resistor which acts as a choke, i have these on my afterburner leds the resistor is inline with the sidelight feed and the brake light feed is wired directly to the same batch of leds, the effect is the same as a stop and tail lamp bulb dimmer for sidelight use and full brightness for the brakelight. Each section of leds already has a resistor inline for protection, the larger ceramic resistor is for the overall feed for the sidelights Clear as mud i know :rofl:

Thank you, i have a few more im finishing off, ive done a new dash pdf . I will do Dave, very similar to the passenger one and will do one for the illuminated arrow for the series2/3

Here is a how to light the passenger door switch, i will add more info as i do it

Wow Trish, sounded like you had a blast, i think i would have been a bit apprehensive too in a room full of hells angels, but glad you had a good time. A bit of R and R is always underestimated imo.. Take care Graham

Im not sure how the el panel would react to different voltage changes. The side light would have a for eg: quarter watt resistor/choke and the for the brake light direct with no resistor, that way you get the difference in brightness between the 2. The el panel is driven by an invertor, which converts 12v to 110v, im not sure if you put the choke in front of the invertor whether it would perform properly, might not be enough voltage for the invertor. But nice idea

Ive got some clear corners ones here, im fixing, going to be looking at making something similar, the clear corners use strips, which is why you dont have them going around the edge, also easier as you dont need to solder hundreds of leds to a board. I think funkysi was looking at getting some boards made through his work contacts

Yep as above, TT calipers, and disc, the pads are the same, will make it easier in the future

I dont think the rubber will ever reform to its original state, as a more permanent fix you could use some small strips of rubber and bond under the lip to help keep it raised, the straw or matchstick is just an example, obviously use anything that works for now and try to form a more permanent solution in line with the temp fix. You could inject some silicon sealer/rubber compound into the rubber itself to help expand it from inside. Theres probably a load of tips, tricks and fixes, but i suppose the ultimate fix is to buy a new one, but at £180ish a side, get experimenting lol

Are you talking about the live feed for the illumination on your pass door switch? Unfortunately you need to run a live feed through the door and connect either to the glovebox light with the ground from the door(metal panel) or for if you want it to dim, both wires need to be fed to the light pod or your auto selector wiring. Im guessing thats why you need to know, if not ignore me lol Cheers Graham

Yes mate, its supposed to be raised, so that the rubber on the targa top makes a good seal. If its flat like you see in the pic, water seeps over it and leaks on your the leg lol Make sure you clean the rubber thoroughly, spray some silicon oil or similar and rub into the rubber, helps it expand a little. This is also assuming you have no other issues like the drain hole blocked or cracked rubber Cheers Graham

look at the ridge in your first pic, its flattened off, you need to raise it, stick a straw or matchstick or similar to raise the rubber to recreate the lip. This is the part of the rubber that meets the targa rubber and where the water gets in. Clean the rubber to get rid of any grit or grime build up .Mine leaked in exactly the same place. Treat the rubber with a peanut oil or the silicon based oil, this will help rejuvenate the rubber and aid a better seal over a period of treatments HTH Gaham

I still love playing live, but doing it for a living does have a different agenda than it used to, used to spend hours learning riffs and shredding, which is all well and good knowing how to do it, but it depends on the music you play, to whether its relevant, still rewarding when youve learnt a difficult piece and pull it off well. Practicing is easier if you are listening too or learning music you are into.

I generally dont bother picking it up from one week to the next, but when i first started, many moons ago, i practised for hours everyday.

Anyone can learn anything, just depends on the individuals aptitude. I was lucky, i started early, had my first band at 13 and have been pro for about 25 years, i seemed to have a natural ability, some people find it hard, but it depends on how much time you want to put into learning and practising This is easier than tab, shows where to put your fingers and the shapes

I agree, ive had 2 sets of leather and neither are that great to be honest, just got a really nice set of velour to fit, much warmer for the winter and not so hot on the legs in the summer

There should be a bulb holder for the ign ring, i supply the ring back to you with a T5 cap on it so it just plugs straight back in Same for the auto plate, i put a 501 cap on a wire tail, so its plug and play

Still a possibility, i often get parcels at 3pm, if it arrives that late though, not much chance of getting it all done and back in the post the same day, so i would look at getting them back wed Cheers Graham

All models utilise the same seat fitment, not all were electric, the seat belt on a jap is on the door, UK on the pillar, no issues, a Uk belt set up can be fitted to a jap, the holes are there for it. ive changed mine 3 times so far, going to the 4th soon lol

Not yet Ike, did you guarantee it, as that seems to be the only way at the min due to the strike backlog. Cheers Graham

First car was a Datsun 100a, then moved on to a yellow mk2 capri Having a yellow zed reminds me of my youth

Meguiars plastic x, but try it on a test piece of plastic first to get the best technique, its used like a cutting compound as you would with metal

Keep your chin up Harry, you have been through more than some of us can imagine, The MRI is just another step closer to getting yourself better. All the best Graham

Happy birthday Neill :duffer::duffer: Happy birthday Dan :duffer::duffer: Hope you two have a nice day All the best Graham