groover

Happy Birthday Si, have a nice day Graham

Happy Birthday Chris, have a nice day Graham

Welcome to the club and enjoy your new toy Graham

If your speedo isnt registering, then the odometer wont work either as it takes its signal from the back of the speedo

Stuff that, great invention though

Will do Vin

The you would get a visit from the MIB and get zapped :gun_bandana:

I would take it further than that if it carried on. Contact the ministry of defence and the home office, newspapers, how much is it costing the tax payer to pick up one guy, total waste of money.

Well done mate, nice feeling when it passes

Having spoken to Luke, he has had no other problems from anyone else with these drop links and has them on his own car and had no problems in three years so far, so i would say it was an install error. Use copper grease that you use on brake pads, plenty in the rose joint. The bolts and drop link are supposed to line up horizontally and drop as vertical as possible for best results, but you will find that with the angle of the drop from the arm down to the bar, that isnt possible. There shouldnt be any play in the arm once the lock nut is tightened, you will probably discover this when you fit them, but i should imagine with no load and in your hand, you will get that result. I will update when new ones arrive Graham

Welcome to the club and im sure you'll enjoy every minute of zed owner ship, even the bad bits lol. There are lots of friendly like minded people on here and lots of info in the faq section. All the best with your new toy Graham

Just spoke to Luke and we have both come to the conclusion that they were not copper greased when fitted, so metal rubbing metal only ends up one way, fubarred. So another £85+vat for something a garage didnt do and i have no way of proving it either, so my advice to anyone fitting new suspension parts, bushes, drop links etc, use plenty of grease.

Happy Birthday Paul, have a nice day Graham

Sounds a great idea, do you have enough room to park all the zeds?

The number plate leds look really nice, much improved n the oem. I personally think the side markers a little too bright, they are supposed to be a low key side marker, NOT A FRIGGING FOG LIGHT :lol::lol: Andy, your bits will leave here tomorrow Cheers Graham

Hi Dave, The metal ball/bush part of the link has movement and it rattles like a bugger, You can actually shake the drop link section and hear the knocking of the metal, but its amplified when driving over bumps. I do think they were not fitted correctly and as you say, the missing spacer wont help matters, I will give Luke a bell tomorrow and see if theres anything he can do under warranty, but in fairness, they have been sat in a box for a year so not sure. Graham

Just an update, took my car into ATS today to get it on the ramp and have a proper look at the drop links. Bare in mind they were brand new and fitted in January and not November as i previously thought, so on the car less than 4 months and they are knackered. Im going to order some new OEM ones with rubber bushes, im not going to bother with the so called upgrades with a metal bush. Unless someone knows of some better ones than the Whiteline drop links Cheers Graham

Hi Al Normally one for each indicator, you can get 25w and 50w. 25watt will be more than enough per indicator. If you were going to do all the indicators, you can buy a new flasher relay, to replace the original under the dash, designed for use with led indicators HTH Graham

I went to Mercedes Benz world in Weybridge last month for a gig, but they have the driving experiences to suit all. There might be something in your area that do something similar, but to be honest its not much of a team building exercise more a fun day out. Have a look at this company, i do a fair bit of work for them, but the main bulk of their business seems to be team building, should have loads of ideas. http://www.firebirdevents.co.uk HTH Graham

Its either a relocation or engine out to replace. I wouldnt bother with a second hand one. Doing the bypass stops the error code, but as you say can hide an underlying problem, which could cause further damage. Disconnect totally will give a means setting. If you do a search on det sensor, there is plenty of threads. HTH Graham

Here is a link to the load resistors, depending on where you put them will also depend on how many you need, you are supposed to have one on each bulb. Are they led bulbs you have fitted? The easiest thing to do, is to find the wattage of each bulb and replicate the load with the correct load resistor, ie 10w, 25w. These should be available from Maplins or ebay, you are ideally after the ceramic type. If you want to do pairs, ie there is one feed to the tail light, brake and indicators, you need to double the wattage of the load resistor and place it across the live and ground feed. http://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/12-volt-ballast-load-resistor-for-led-side-and-tail-lights-p-291.html

Yes your are right to a point, the load of the leds is less than a filament bulb and therefore it will think a bulb has gone, because it is getting little or no resistence. A load resistor will trick it, but it will have to either be connected across the live and ground of the feed/s or at the source. Im searching now so will get back to you Cheers Graham

Hi Andre, I will try and dig out a thread i saw which eliminates that problem. You dont want to add another resistor inline to the leds or you will make them dimmer, the load resistor will need to go across the live and ground to give it load, similar to the led indicator load resistors to make them flash at the correct speed

Where the cable end goes to the flap mechanism, you can adjust it there iirc, will require the rear pass panel out to access it and theres not a lot of room from what i recall.

8.7 litres, You'll be lucky, you wont get most of it out, unless you take out the torque convertor, so you will manage a few litres at least