groover

:happybday: Have a great day Paul :happybday: Graham

If its a series 2 PTU,( without fins) you will have had a harness that came with it, defo check the fit, it took a couple of wiggles and a bit of tape to make it fit tight. If its been hard wired, ie no additional loom, then check the wiring, you may have something amiss there.

Yes, but make sure the connections are tight, you end up with a similar symptom if the terminals aren't making good contact and will expand when warm

If it did it, then didnt do it for a while, check the plugs first, if they are even out by a gnats whisker it will make a difference. I have a spare series one for £30 delivered if it helps. Cheers Graham

Absolutely stunning Martin, just wait till its dark now and see if all the leds work :sweatdrop: Graham

If you dont see yourself doing it again then silicon sealant, preferably clear as it will show under the glass. Factory is grey sealant, obviously lol

I would take the lights out Craig, much easier to get apart. Once you have them out, take the metal strips off that hold the rubber trim, then there are six metal clips which help hold the glass down, prise those off then get a hairdryer to soften the sealer. you should be able to re use the sealer thats already in the headlight as the glass comes off pretty cleanly with a bit of heat. As you use the hairdryer along one edge, use a flat screwdriver to help lift the glass as the sealer softens. Start from the bottom of the glass, i found it easier, as you can lift the glass by hand as you soften with the sealer. Once the glass is off i gave mine a bath in the sink with hot water, including the rubber trim. Leave the rubber trim to soak for a while, it gets the crap out more easily. Replacing the glass, use a hairdryer around the perimeter of the headlight before you place the glass back, this will help soften it. Once the glass is replace continue with the heat as you press the glass down, the retaining clips also help the glass to sit more tightly. Like mine you may find some little tablets rolling around inside the housing, they were originally in a cotton mesh to help with condensation, the mesh had disintegrated and were rattling around so i glued some silica gel bags in the back of the housing. HTH Graham

Deatails, please, details :thumbup:

:ban::ban: ooooooooh ark at her :lol::lol:

Gone! its been a while since we had some spam lol

:happybday: have a nice day :happybday:

Pics have disappeared from that site, which is why i put the Aus site thread up, however, the write up is still good

Here you go, first one is info from Jefftt http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=132280 Bypass http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.275

:happybday: have a good day Dave, all the best :happybday:

:happybday:have a nice day :happybday:

:happybday: have a nice day :happybday:

Being a muso, my time clock is at the opposite end to most people lol. I bought some 55w HID off ebay for about £30 odd and have had no problems at all with mine. Hope its a quick and easy fix for you, theres not a lot of parts to go wrong tbh, if in doubt go back to normal bulb and start again lol

Hi Paul, try swapping the ballasts over to check if it does the same thing, the voltage: High voltage converter and ignitor Operational input voltage 8-16 V Maximum input current 8 A Minimum voltage loaded (lamp on) 60 V Maximum voltage loaded (lamp on) 120 V Output voltage from ignitor Nominal voltage 23000 V Minimum voltage 18000 V Lifetime >3000hours Unless you have a megameter i wouldnt test the output voltage of a ballast, you may end up blowing the meter. Graham

The feed to the ballast comes from the original bulb feed, so as said there isnt a seperate ground for the feed. If you want to stop the hid's going off when you flash your main beam, then you need to take a ground from the bulb feed, after the ballast

Check the ground, to stop them going off with the high beam, it has to be a good grounding point, depending on where it has been done, i would look at that first

iirc correctly its actually screwed onto the back of the bumper strengthener/fog light housing support bar, at the bottom, near drivers headlight just above where the corrugated plastic splash guard starts.

Glad you got it sorted and yep theres a lot of wires down there, its where some of the most common electrical problems happen, usually due to water ingression, either from a targa drain hose come away or other lol

I said will be the body colour :thumbup:, still a mess at the minute with body filler and panels rubbed down. :thumbdown:

Ive smoothed mine into the bumper and will be the body colour

There is a aircon ecu in the drivers footwell, next to the clutch. Check the plugs into the unit, also if its off completely now, check the fuse in the drivers footwell, next to the acc pedal, it will be the accessories fuse, 3rd top row from the left http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=66739