groover

I know what you mean Daz, but if youre watching a movie, then the angle is wrong if its flush, just a thought. :turned:

recreate the pattern while the filler is going off with a bit of course sandpaper pressed against it or vinyl. Smear some filler over a slightly larger area than the hole and emboss the filler, once you have sprayed it sprinkle some sand or grit over it. You should have watched more Blue Peter in your younger days lol

You could go the filler route and smooth to get the OEM look, madmax amongst others have done it, to good effect

Im doing this too, just got to watch i dont bugger up me carbon trim lol

Not a problem unpluggin it, lol, just thought you might have an other underlying issue.

If the hole is that small, i would use some P40 fibreglass filler to fill the hole, then a skim of bodyfiller, sand and paint. The MOT guy only taps the sills he wont be forcing a screwdriver through anything and the P40 will be stronger enough to withstand scrutiny. Its a stop gap to get it through the MOT till you can get it sorted properly if want in the future.

They are the same, ive swapped out both jap UK/mixed and had no issues. I would say you either have a dodgy wire somewhere or the screws on the rear of the dash may not be tight enough. The screw on the rear that hold the dials in place are also the electrical connection to the board. What does happen though when you turn the ignition on, it puts the dials under load, after fitting the EL faces you may have moved the rev needle, you can try moving the rev counter needle to the stop position, while the ignition is on, obviously need the plastic front off lol Yes the bong box is behind the dash on the metal bracket, but it shouldnt bong everytime you slow down. This would indicate an earth problem when you touch the brake and it makes contact with the brake switch or does it bong without touching the brake?

Yes of course, they use the same fuse in the engine bay and having looked at the schematic above, the power window also uses the breaker. Try doing a continuity test of the ground, one one the ground of the seat plug and one to the chassis/body. If you get continuity then its the feed side of it you need to trace the problem.

:happybday: have a great day :happybday:

:happybday: all the best mate, have a great day :happybday:

Normally, my computer, program files, if its not in your start menu.

Copy from where the original is stored and paste to the external drive, once you have it working, delete then from your laptop or uninstall.

The external hard drive is just a storage media and doesnt have or need any operating software. Large files like mp3's or movies can be played from the ED but im not sure about games, ive not tried it with mine.

Yep looks the dogs, what makes it a little easier though, is owning the company who supply the parts :thumbup:

They may have also lost the little spring in the hinge that helps it pop open

Yes fuse is in the engine bay, so if there was anything major the fuse would blow

Lol, his wont be on the road for a while yet, just tell him it was mice :lol:

The breaker acts as a fuse, continuing the circuit, so no breaker, no circuit. You could use the feed wire to the breaker, jump wire to the seat loom feed, it all shares a common ground anyway.

You will be fine mate, done it myself a few times on different dashes. It will read in mile if you also change the odometer, the UK one has blue cogs, the jap grey. The odometer gets its signal from the speedo board, which if you are using the UK MPH clock, will read right.

Get hold of another and if it doesnt sort the problem, then do a bypass direct to the battery, i have a feeling that the breaker will be open circuit to feed the seat, once the breaker has gone its closed circuit, hence the continuity reading, i could be wrong, but it might work the opposite way to a household type breaker.

Looks like youve done it right Rob, showing as subscibed, so welcome to another year :thumbup:

Yes from a later series with the air bag, you can swap the dials out to your jap spec, you could just do the speedo and odometer, as you have el dials covering the bar rather than psi for the boost gauge. Having said that, you dont want to be re- glueing the dial faces so swap the lot :thumbup1:

:happybday: have a good day Chris :happybday:

Pray tell, what is soft modding?

Here is the image of the culprit, i think Jeff will know this one