craig

have some test fitting pics and comments, but probably need a bit more time and fettle, or some adjustment with the mold, particularly the smaller piece, mainly because they are much more rigid than the plastic oem pieces though. the large piece lines up perfectly for all of the mounting holes, and although it doesnt curve with the window, flexes easily enough as shown and would easily stay in place. the short piece will need one of the mounting holes opening up slightly, but the mounting holes are not quite 100% compared to the large piece. it is also much more rigid so i am not sure if the plastic clips would actually hold it in place or not when flexed to fit. overall, they fit together well though, and they look good. i didn't try to fit the rubber trim piece or the clips as yet, i just wanted to check the alignment before the light faded.

The quality of the carbon is very good, and the mounting points all look right compared to the set i left with him, although not tried against the car yet. It looks like the molds he has obtained were the previously made ones that had the larger gaps already made. Unfortunately i didn't get a chance to see them before he sent them off for the test set. I discussed this with him, and he claims that putting the extra ribs in could be difficult as the raw carbon material will have to be cut smaller when it is being made, and will be more difficult to put into place during the build up. This means the ribs have the potential to be weaker and risk cracking during use, which is obviously not desirable by anyone, whereas with the larger gaps, they are able to get the material into place easier and make the ribs stronger. He deals with quite a lot of car and bike parts, so has seen some of these issues before. However, he will discuss with the factory to see what options are available, as these molds were obviously made a while ago and carbon manufacture has come along since then. The way around for us is to bond black mesh to the rear of the scuttle which will blend in and would have been needed to take the place of the finer little mesh strips between the main ribs anyway. I have a couple of videos but too large to upload here in a zip file, so will find another way.

will be picking up the test pieces today so i will take some pictures and compare to the originals, as well as try and do a test fit on the car if the weather stays dry over the weekend. will also get some individual prices and group buy discount pricing sorted if he has got them worked out.

however it came out Russ, i am sure it was awesome for an early attempt mate :thumbup1: and lead loading on a vertical surface is probably something to build up to, more of a black belt skill :lol:

yeah, ditto, i thought i had my series link record option set, so i was looking forward to that episode as well :lol:

it's the "i'm suddenly single again" finger until any swelling or bandages come off, just in case they had to cut the ring off at the time :lol: but you call it the 'of little importance' finger? :eek: yes, bike related.. :huh:

come on, i am hampered by a life changing injury that has taken weeks of rehabilitation and am anxiously awaiting a call back from diy sos for some conversion work on our house :lol:

thanks Jeff. battery drain over a couple of days explains the issue, with the radio, heater and clock being permanently live with no ignition on making it obvious i hope. will just have to go for a deep dive into the footwell with the help of your pictures, although they didn't make it look any more appealing :lol:

nice little collections, welcome in :)

ok, i might tackle this at the weekend as long as my splinted finger doesnt prove too awkward to use, so whats the best way to approach it? take the seat out for best access? is it just remove panel, remove fuse box screws and pull it away, then you have access to relay panel? is there enough loom slack to work on? will go and do some old thread archeaology presume nothing is that simple and it will be more like trying to do keyhole surgery with a jcb?

fixed his thread

best wishes

best wishes

1: Funkysi (Simon Parsons) 13th and 14th 2: nickz32 (Nick Johnson) 13th and 14th 3: Joely P (Joel Pickering) 13th and 14th 4: Baz (Barry Keen) 14th 5: RichardS (Richard Smith) +1, 13th and 14th 6: Gaz 300 (Gary Wilson) +1 13th and 14th 7: Craig & Nikk 13th and 14th

you're doing great work there buddy

guilty as charged, you are made of stronger stuff than me Russ :lol:

i think the front is like the "is it blue or gold dress" picture. my opinion can change just looking at it 2 or 3 times in a row. they definitely tried hard to be modern retro at the time

you all talked me into it, not that i needed much persuading :lol:

or wait for another day?

perhaps we should have had just a simple "Non UK" area to capture those numbers out of interest, but its nice to see the list of people still around :)

brand new N/A radiator + postage once known

Evo Brembo big brake upgrade kit. Front and rear calipers and disks. Front and rear fitting kits. Rear fitting kit has come from AlphaOmega racing. Rear pads only, front pads will need buying separately. I believe this kit was originally supplied via Richie K all freshly rebuilt and painted, as it all came with TonyB's car when i bought it in the summer.

i watched one of the lead loading demos at the NEC last year and they make it look so easy, but the end results are so much better. i can see why you want to go that way, especially for external facing panels. :thumbup:

:lol: