Jack

I don't think that the speed sensor affects the speedo - I seem to recall that the speedo feed is from a different source and that the speed sensor is power steering only. It's a while since I've had a auto na and I recall the steering getting heavy now and again, but I don't recall the speedo being affected in any way. Someone tell me where the speed sensor is on a na. Is it on one side of the diff? or is that abs? ...comon chaps, refresh my memory (you know I'm old). Cheerz Jack

isn't this a speed sensor issue? Faulty connection or muck in the grooves of the rotating part of the sensor. Stuck for descriptive words. Dosn't the steering go heavy because the speed sensor isn't working? Anyway - good luck. Jack

You are right - but and it's a big but - the scare about the name etc was initially coined when the car was first launched in direct competition with Porsche. All these years later, and with the benefit of hindsight, it's about time that the crap about the badge is buried once and for all. Question, does the 350Z suffer in the same way? I think not, I think that Nissan's marketing machine have seen to that... I personally will not buy a Porsche as A, I'm too working class, and B, I can't afford one. I also like the fact that I'm driving a car as good as any of the 'other' exotics and I only paid £xk for it and too boot, it's Japanese so it's reliable (NA). So I actually bought into the bad badge idea as it means I get a great car at a cheap price. Watch out for expensive newsp[apers like the Sunday Times. There are car ads in there at greatly inflated prices. I'm sure they get put in to keep the perceived market value high - they've never any intention of selling the car they are just keeping the value of their 'investment' I've been watching a car ad for 18 months now, a Pantera GTS? - it's been around the £50k mark all of that time. If it is for sale it would have slowly reduced in price till it found its correct level.... Get my drift? We should do the same. We have the technology... Cheerz Jack

We actually need a concerted campaign to let the rest of the car buying world know just what they are missing. We drive one of the top 25 best looking cars ever (from a recent poll), the Z globally is amongst the top selling 'sports' cars (in all guises) of all time, the engineering in the Z32 ought to be revered (especially the engine) and yet they are at give-away prices. What we need to do is raise awareness - write to every car mag - write to everyone... Tell people, tell then three times then tell them again whilst hitting them with a length of 3 x 3. And after a few years someone (a hack) will get the message and prices will start to rise. To kick off the campaign, I recommend that we advertise our cars on this forum at double the current market value. I'll start - 97 na midnight purple, 70k miles, daily driver £12k. And then we need a dedicated press area showing good cars and with good copy - so that the hacks can at least get the story right. Off the soapbox now. Cheerz Jack

You don't need to change oil that regularly. You are just wasting money. Good luck with the diagnosis Cheerz Jack

Gaz If it's the long pieces of brake pipe that travel the length of the car then I've a set in good condition that you can have. Cheers Jack

Gaz ...it also occured to me that I've been driving that route to work in a Z for over 7 years now, and I've seen 4 zeds travelling in the same direction in that time - and your is one of them, and in total ie both ways, the number raises to a lofty 7... Cheers Jack

Gaz I didn't realise it was you. I normally pass that way about an hour earlier and never see another Z - so you came as quite a surprise. I was also shading my eyes from the sun - so it might have looked like I was avoiding you. Hope all's well - car passed MOT ok?

get some super glue - they do one for hard plastics - works really well. Holds my dash together. It comes with a felt-tip pen to prime the plastic surfaces. Highly recommend it. Good luck Jack

Wrong time of year - keep it till spring and photograph it with the roof off. You'll sell it - no problem. Advertise it in Auto Trader too as it'll appear cheap when compared with trader prices. Good luck Jack

someones selling a set of lowered Bisteins on here at the moment... God luck Jack

Evidently they are talking of putting a charge of £1.34 per mile onn certain roads too. At average speeds it works out at about £80 per hour - and that's on top of existing rip-off taxes. Source todays Auto Express. ...drive it whilst you can! cheerz Jack

it was a tt, now it's a write-off. cheerz Jack

Had a problem once where I replaced a drivers side footwell fuse back in the wrong slot after checking them to find a blown fuse. What happened was that the main beam light came on all by themselves. I checked everything and then resorted to posting a question on the forum. From memory Jeff came to my rescue saying that it's a warning system built into the Nissan to indicate that this particular fuse (controls the lights) has blown. Third row down, in the middle I think. It's a Jap NA by the way.

my peak torque is at just under 5k rpm, in a 97 na which i believe has different cams - from late 95 onwards, ie no VVT. Torque level was pretty flat till both the bhp and the torque fell away at 6500 rpm. Cars standard.

I think that there's a big one down by the fuse box inside drivers footwell. good luck Jack

...a favourite of mine:

...do you mean prop shaft centre bearing? There's no such thing as a centre prop shaft on a Z - well, not on the 3 that I've owned. Good luck Jack

Your best bet is to replace the rear gear box mount as a starting point. If that cures it then ok. If not, then you haven't really lost anything as it was most likely knackered any way. They do need replacing about every 2 years (from my experience - and I use an NA as an every-day car). If the problem still persists then remove the propshaft and centre bearing - take care to mark it's alignment before you unbolt anything - and you'll be able to see/feel if there's any problems with it or the centre bearing. Good luck Jack

Not answering your question but is it definately the prop? Normally it's the rear gear box mount that sags with age and then the centre bearing getting dry. As the rear gear box mount is about £55 and the centre bearing is about £145, start with the gear box mount - it's an easy change too... Here's how you tell. From cold, drive the car over a very smooth piece of road slowly. If it feels like a flat spot on one of the tyres then it's the rear gear box mount. This flat spot should go away after you've done a few miles at normal speed only to return the next time you drive the car after say an all-night standstill. If it's the centre bearing then the vibration is felt at higher speeds - often comes in at about 50 and goes again at about 80. Both of these are loose descriptions that vary with the amount of wear in each item. Good luck Jack

A colleague had the same with an Audi TT in Italy. He nearly got on a plane to view it but decided it was too good to be true. Reasons for sale were identical. The emails were very convincing.

Get this months Classic and Sports car magazine - there's 5 pages on the Bronco. Cheerz Jack

Actually - with hind sight, I think it's the other way round. If it's water pump bearing seal failure then when it heats up, it seals as the metal expands. When it cools down, it starts to leak. Mine went this way, and the trays under the engine were catching the leak so you couldn't detect it when the car was parked. Have a look for white stains on the top of the engine undertrays - directly below the water pump. Good luck Jack

water pump leaking. Simple explanation - when it's cold, the metal contracts and leak stops. when it's hot, metal expands and it leaks. Invariably when it's hot, you are driving it - hence you can't find the leak. good luck jack

mind you, I should stop drinking - it says allen, not alien - whoops!